Here at PGS we really try to balance our product lines with an abundance of organic and sustainable products, from organic nutrients to sustainably harvested coco and soil products. The art and science of Permaculture has always inspired us and we pay tribute however we can. On this rainy and windy Wednesday we thought it would be nice to share some background on Permaculture with you. Thanks to wikipedia for providing the following information.

Mollison and Holmgren

In the mid 1970s, Australians Bill Mollison and David Holmgren started to develop ideas about stable agricultural systems. This was a result of rapid growth of destructive industrial-agricultural methods. They saw that these methods were poisoning the land and water, reducing biodiversity, and removing billions of tons of topsoil from previously fertile landscapes. They announced their permaculture” approach with the publication of Permaculture One in 1978.

The term permaculture initially meant “permanent agriculture” but was quickly expanded to also stand for “permanent culture” as it was seen that social aspects were integral to a truly sustainable system.

After Permaculture One, Mollison and Holmgren further refined and developed their ideas by designing hundreds of permaculture sites and organizing this information into more detailed books. Mollison lectured in over 80 countries and taught his two-week Design Course to many hundreds of students. By the early 1980s, the concept had broadened from agricultural systems design towards complete, sustainable human habitats.

By the mid 1980s, many of the students had become successful practitioners and had themselves begun teaching the techniques they had learned. In a short period of time permaculture groups, projects, associations, and institutes were established in over one hundred countries. In 1991 a four-part Television documentary by ABC productions called “The Global Gardener” showed permaculture applied to a range of worldwide situations, bringing the concept to a much broader public. Excerpts are available online through YouTube.

Further developments

Permaculture has developed from its Australian origins into an international movement. English permaculture teacher Patrick Whitefield, author of The Earth Care Manual and Permaculture in a Nutshell, suggests that there are now two strands of permaculture: Original and Design permaculture.

Original permaculture attempts to closely replicate nature by developing edible ecosystems which closely resemble their wild counterparts.

Design permaculture takes the working connections at use in an ecosystem and uses them as its basis. The end result may not look as natural as a forest garden, but still respects ecological principles. Through close observation of natural energies and flow patterns efficient design systems can be developed. This has become known as Natural Systems Design. (Dr. M Millington and A Sampson-Kelly)

Elements of design

Permaculture principles draw heavily on the practical application of ecological theory to analyze the characteristics and potential relationships between design elements.

Each element of a design is carefully analyzed in terms of its needs, outputs, and properties. For example chickens need water, moderated microclimate and food, producing meat, eggs, feathers and manure and can help break up soil hardpan.

Design elements are then assembled in relation to one another so that the products of one element feed the needs of adjacent elements. Synergy between design elements is achieved while minimizing waste and the demand for human labor or energy. Exemplary permaculture designs evolve over time, and can become extremely complex mosaics of conventional and inventive cultural systems that produce a high density of food and materials with minimal input.

While techniques and cultural systems are freely borrowed from organic agriculture, sustainable forestry, horticulture, agroforestry, and the land management systems of indigenous peoples, permaculture’s fundamental contribution to the field of ecological design is the development of a concise set of broadly applicable organizing principles that can be transferred through a brief intensive training.

Modern permaculture

Modern permaculture is a system design tool. It is a way of:

1. looking at a whole system or problem;
2. observing how the parts relate;
3. planning to mend sick systems by applying ideas learned from long-term sustainable working systems;
4. seeing connections between key parts.

In permaculture, practitioners learn from the working systems of nature to plan to fix the damaged landscapes of human agricultural and city systems. This thinking applies to the design of a kitchen tool as easily to the re-design of a farm.

Permaculture practitioners apply it to everything deemed necessary to build a sustainable future. Commonly, “Initiatives … tend to evolve from strategies that focus on efficiency (for example, more accurate and controlled uses of inputs and minimization of waste) to substitution (for example, from more to less disruptive interventions, such as from biocides to more specific biological controls and other more benign alternatives) to redesign (fundamental changes in the design and management of the operation) (Hill & MacRae 1995, Hill et al. 1999).” “Permaculture is about helping people make redesign choices: setting new goals and a shift in thinking that affects not only their home but their actions in the workplace, borrowings and investments” (A Sampson-Kelly and Michel Fanton 1991). Examples include the design and employment of complex transport solutions, optimum use of natural resources such as sunlight, and “radical design of information-rich, multi-storey polyculture systems” (Mollison & Slay 1991).

“This progression generally involves a shift in the nature of one’s dependence — from relying primarily on universal, purchased, imported, technology-based interventions to more specific locally available knowledge and skill-based ones. This usually eventually also involves fundamental shifts in world-views, senses of meaning, and associated lifestyles (Hill 1991).” “My experience is that although efficiency and substitution initiatives can make significant contributions to sustainability over the short term, much greater longer-term improvements can only be achieved by redesign strategies; and, furthermore, that steps need to be taken at the outset to ensure that efficiency and substitution strategies can serve as stepping stones and not barriers to redesign…” (Hill 2000)

Core values

Permaculture is a broad-based and holistic approach that has many applications to all aspects of life. At the heart of permaculture design and practice is a fundamental set of ‘core values’ or ethics which remain constant whatever a person’s situation, whether they are creating systems for town planning or trade; whether the land they care for is only a windowbox or an entire forest. These ‘ethics’ are often summarized as;

• Earthcare – recognising that Earth is the source of all life (and is possibly itself a living entity — see Gaia theory), that Earth is our valuable home, and that we are a part of Earth, not apart from it.
• Peoplecare – supporting and helping each other to change to ways of living that do not harm ourselves or the planet, and to develop healthy societies.
• Fairshare (or placing limits on consumption) – ensuring that Earth’s limited resources are used in ways that are equitable and wise.

Modern thought about permaculture began with the issue of sustainable food production. It started with the belief that for people to feed themselves sustainably, they need to move away from reliance on industrialized agriculture. Where industrial farms use technology powered by fossil fuels (such as gasoline, diesel and natural gas), and each farm specializes in producing high yields of a single crop, permaculture stresses the value of low inputs and diverse crops. The model for this was an abundance of small-scale market and home gardens for food production, and a main issue was food miles.

Design innovation

The core of permaculture has always been in supplying a design toolkit for human habitation. This toolkit helps the designer to model a final design based on an observation of how ecosystems interact. A simple example of this is how the Sun interacts with a plant by providing it with energy to grow. This plant may then be pollinated by bees or eaten by deer. These may disperse seed to allow other plants to grow into tall trees and provide shelter to these creatures from the wind. The bees may provide food for birds and the trees provide roosting for them. The tree’s leaves fall and rot, providing food for small insects and fungus. Such a web of intricate connections allows a diverse population of plant life and animals to survive by giving them food and shelter. One of the innovations of permaculture design was to appreciate the efficiency and productivity of natural ecosystems, to use natural energies (wind, gravity, solar, fire, wave and more) and seek to apply this to the way human needs for food and shelter are met. One of the most notable proponents of this design system has been David Holmgren, who based much of his permaculture innovation on zone analysis.

OBREDIM design methodology

OBREDIM is an acronym for observation, boundaries, resources, evaluation, design, implementation and maintenance.

• Observation allows you first to see how the site functions within itself, to gain an understanding of its initial relationships. Some recommend a year-long observation of a site before anything is planted. During this period all factors, such as lay of the land, natural flora and so forth, can be brought into the design. A year allows the site to be observed through all seasons, although it must be realized that, particularly in temperate climates, there can be substantial variations between years.
• Boundaries refer to physical ones as well as to those neighbors might place, for example.
• Resources include the people involved, funding, as well as what can be grown or produced in the future.
• Evaluation of the first three will then allow one to prepare for the next three. This is a careful phase of taking stock of what is at hand to work with.
• Design is a creative and intensive process, and must stretch the ability to see possible future synergetic relationships.
• Implementation is literally the ground-breaking part of the process when digging and shaping of the site occurs.
• Maintenance is then required to keep the site at a healthy optimum, making minor adjustments as necessary. Good design will preclude the need for any major adjustment.

We love Can! Their Filters and line of Max fans are the industry standard as far as we are concerned. Our stock is freshly loaded so you can find the size you need at any of our 3 stores.

Come on down and we will dial you in with the right filter and fan for your garden, or you can talk to one of our knowledgeable, friendly staff at 1-866-PGS-GROW!

Happy Gardening!

Pro Gardening Systems has a killer selection of soils and soilless mediums in stock! At the moment, more than 16 varieties at the Santa Rosa warehouse. We can get you whatever you may need at either Sebastopol or Rincon Valley locations with just a little bit of notice.

At the top of the list are the PGS Mixt A & B custom soilless blends. Some of the most experienced master gardeners in Sonoma County swear by these blends. If they work for the pros, they can definitely work for you! Come on down and check them out.

We also have the following soils in stock:

Sunshine #2, Sunshine #4, B’cuzz, Light Warrior, Happy Frog, Ocean Forest, Roots Organic Soil, Roots Organic Soilless, Black Gold Cocoblend, Black Gold Organic, Readigrow Aeration, Power Flower, MJR Blend and Humisoil.

If you use a product that we don’t currently have in stock, we would be happy to special order it for you.

As always, our horticulture experts are on hand to help guide you to the right medium.

Whether its one bag or a whole pallet, we have what you need at a great price! Give us a call at 1-866-PGS-GROW.

Fresh from the design engineers at Sunlight Supply comes the Master Blaster 1500, a remote electronic ballast that pumps out an incredible 206,000 lumens (HPS). Here’s what they have to say:

Sunlight Supply is doing a very limited release of a brand new technology! This 1500 watt HPS/MH electronic ballast is an engineering prototype. Our initial release is limited to just 350 ballasts. We have tested this product thoroughly in our lighting test center and it has performed better than our expectations. We are now ready to move into Phase 2 of our development process. This is a release to the industry of small quantities for testing in a variety of different growing conditions. Please be aware that this ballast will only operate on 240 volt power.

If you choose to purchase this product, we would appreciate your feedback on its performance via email at info@sunlightsupply.com

Rest assured, if this product prematurely fails we will warranty it through the authorized dealer where you purchased it. Your purchase price will be refunded or the product will be replaced free of charge. This product carries a two year factory warranty.

Thank you for the support of Sunlight Supply and your interest in helping us test the latest lighting technology in indoor gardening.

This is a cool opportunity to participate in the testing of a new product. And we know that YOUR garden is the ultimate testing ground!

If that piques your interest come by the Santa Rosa warehouse to purchase one. We have a very limited supply!

When your in need of a lift in your spirits, one only needs to look to your garden. The subtle energy and magic that is all around your garden is available for you to take advantage of 24 hours of every day. It has been proven that gardening helps reduce stress and improve positive mental health. When your feeling down, clear your mind and take a journey through the remarkable thing that is your garden. I like to shut off all the fans and lights sometimes and light a candle. I sit and listen to my plants and soak in their magnificence. Breathe in the fresh smell of organic soil and the incredible aroma of the plants themselves. I slow my breath down and let myself become aware of the negative ions that are jumping from me to the plants and back again. I visualize my garden thriving and imagine all the aspects of my life coming together in harmony. I literally say “thank you for what you provide to me” over and over and then fire up all the equipment again and feed my plants with zeal. If there is one single thing that I could tell people will help you more then anything else, it is to do this as much as you can. All the light, nutrients, CO2, AC, compost teas, grow medium and time contribute to success, but the best growers I know, all have some intentional energy that they give to the plants in addition to the physical part of what they give to their plants. I encourage you to do some “magic” in your garden asap and watch what can come from a little extra intention.

Hey guys, its been a cold winter, and it looks like spring has come a little early. It feels so good too! It also feels great to let everyone know that our end of year inventory is over and we are again fully stocked with all the essentials you need for your grow room. We are also gearing up for what is anticipated as the biggest grow season ever. Viva 2010, with outdoor and indoor projects being taken on in extremely aggressive levels, its super exciting for us to be able to provide for all the Sonoma County growers and beyond who are getting involved. We have -

• Traditional soils, organic blends, soilless blends, rockwool, and coco pots ready to go.
• Grow lights, electronic ballasts, magnetic ballasts, reflectors, high output fluorescent systems, LED Grow lights, replacement bulbs.
• Hydro trays, containers, smart pots, complete hydro setups.
• Complete organic and hydroponic nutrient lines – General Hydroponics, General Organics, House and Garden, Cutting Edge, Technaflora and tons of grow and bloom enhancers and accelerators.
• Carbon filters of every size and shape
• Wall, pedestal and exhaust fans and blowers of every shape and size
• Ducting, clamps, foil tape, flanges, reducers, extenders, splitters, splicers
• Co2 generators, controllers and parts
• Organic and chemical pest control products
• Master light controllers, Environmental controllers, High temp. shut off devices
• Water purification systems, accessories and replacement filters
• Ready to grow, self contained Darkrooms
• Valves, elbows, tees, custom hydro fittings, replacement sprayers and misters
• Full service repair dept. complete with loaner ballasts
• Full time accredited botanist

We love to serve and provide the best advice and products available in the indoor/hydroponic/organic gardening industry, give our friendly grow experts a call today and let us know how we can help you. 1-866-PGS-GROW

Winter is such a great time for indoor growers. The cool air from outside is such a powerful tool in your arsenal to maintain optimal temperatures in your garden. What happens when the air outside is hotter then the air inside? What do you do when that air from outside is not enough to keep your room cool? Allot of growers these days use a sealed environment that includes an air conditioner, in which case they are not affected as much, they just need their AC system to work a little harder during the summer. I always try and avoid using AC and always prefer outside air to AC, but in some cases AC is totally unavoidable. For this post, I am going to talk about getting by without AC during the hot summer months ahead.

• The first thing you will need to do is air cool your lights if your not doing so already. This will remove the largest portion of your heat signature away from your plants and out of the grow room.
• The next thing you will want to do is change your on/off times and run your gardens 12/12 period starting at night, when the sun has gone down. You will have a much easier time
• The other thing to consider is to raise your lights slightly higher then usual to bring that extra heat just that much further from your babies. The benefit of less heat far out ways the minimal loss of lumens created from raising your lights a little higher.
• Bring in cool air from outside and into your room (in addition to the air coming in cooling your lights)
• Increase the number of oscillation fans and keep the air in that room moving!
• Increase the size of your can filter. This one is missed by most people. It requires a little more investment, but the fresh, happy and cool air you get from it is totally worth it.
• Water your plants at the start of your plants cycle… This makes for cooler happier root zones, in case temperatures get too high.
• Use a High Temp Shutoff

After you have put your mind to all the tasks above you should be able to run your indoor garden during the summer without AC. If you have any questions or concerns, give us a call 1-866-PGS-GROW

Aloha Friday! Some of the most ancient gardeners and cultivators were the Native Americans. I found an amazing post about smudging and “four sacred” medicines…  I encourage you to explore other burned herbs that purify your physical and spiritual environment. Have a great weekend, and keep your energy purified!

Many things have been placed on the earth for our use. One of the major tools given to us are the plant medicines.

Certain plants give up their lives so that we can use their smoke for prayers and cleansing, and the aroma produced by these plants help us place ourselves in a different state of mind thus bringing us into a deeper part of ourselves. Then, as we concentrate on what is happening, the scent may inspire memories, awaken the soul and give a sense of direction.

Many cultures and religions use sacred smoke made from the plant medicines. This is called smudging in Native America.

Often incense is burned during rituals, both for purification and to symbolize the prayers of the worshipper, which are then carried to the Creator along the smoke.

While much is written on the use of smudging to cleanse negative energy, one of its main purposes is to bring vision, aided by the sense of smell.

In ancient Greece, smudging formed part of the rituals to contact the dead, following long periods of fasting and silence. Their sacred smoke was born out of sulphur and minerals in lieu of herbs to part the veil between the worlds of the living and form a bridge to the other world.

Besides producing visions, smudging is used to purify tools and people before an important spiritual ceremony. It is also used to clear sacred space and open the soul before calling upon the Spirits and their healing powers.

The Elders say that the Spirits like the aroma produced when we burn sacred medicines.

It is always recommended to smudge a room or oneself after heavy healing work or a bad argument. This is to remove any negative energy that may persist just like disinfecting a place full of germs.

Healing powers of plants and herbs is universal and across all continents, the only difference is that not all plants grow in one region. People usually utilize the plant or the herb that is abundant in their region

There are Four major medicine plants;  tobacco, sweet grass, sage and cedar that we natives use frequently in ceremonies.

Tobacco (Semah)

Sacred tobacco is used to make smoke, is one of the most sacred of plants for Native people. It is said to be the main activator of all plants. It was given to us so that we can communicate with the Spirit world and when you use it, all things begin to happen. Tobacco is always offered before picking medicines. When you offer tobacco to a plant and explain your reasons for being there, the plant will let all the plants in the area know your intentions and why you are picking them, tobacco is used first as an offering for everything and in every ceremony. Going to ceremonies you would offer tobacco to the Elder leading those ceremonies along with an honoring gift. This announces your intention and the Elders may ask you of your intentions with this offering.

Sweet grass (Weengush)

Sweet grass is the sacred hair of Mother Earth; its sweet aroma reminds people of the gentleness, love and kindness she has for the people; this is why Native people pick it and braid it in 3 strands representing love, kindness and honesty. Sweet grass is used for smudging and purification of the spirit; when Sweet grass is used in a healing or talking circle it has a calming effect. It is said that it attracts the good Spirit, so use it to call in the Spirit.

EuropeanTraditions

Sweet grass was strewn before church doors on Saints’ days in northern Europe, presumably because of the sweet smell that arose when it was trodden on. It was used in France to flavour candy, tobacco, soft drinks, and perfumes. Widely used in neo-pagan practice (syncretized from North American indigenous practice). In Europe, the species H. alpina is frequently substituted or used interchangeably. In Russia, it was used to flavour tea

Ceremonial Sage(Sukodawabuk)

Sage is used in many different ways, it helps the people prepare for ceremonies and teachings. Because it is more medicinal and stronger than Sweet grass, it tends to be used more often in ceremonies, it also has physical healing properties, you can boil sage and drink it as a tea. Sage is for releasing what is troubling the mind and for removing negative energy, it is used for cleansing homes and sacred items. There is male and female sage.

Ceremonial use of Cedar (Keezhik)

Like Sage and Sweet grass, cedar is used to purify the home, it also has many restorative medicinal use. When mixed with sage for a tea, it cleans the body of all infections, cedar baths are also very healing. When cedar mixed with tobacco is put in the fire it crackles, this is said to call the attention of the Spirits to the offering that is being made. Cedar is used in sweat lodge and fasting ceremonies for protection, cedar branches cover the floor of many sweat lodges and some people make a circle of cedar when they are fasting. It is a guardian spirit and chases away the bad spirits.

Since it is believe, in many cultures, that the plants we use to burn and purify ourselves provides us with access to their soul and power, it is essential that we ask their permission before gathering these plants. Take only what we need without damaging the plant and give thanks for what we took. If you did not pick these plants yourself, know that someone else did that for you and that you could still give thanks for the life of those plants and the people who did pick them.

The format of the smudging in today’s rituals varies from culture to culture and so does the plants and herbs used for such sacred ceremony. In the Dancing To Eagle Spirit Society’s rituals we utilize mostly sage (all kinds), cedar, juniper, sweet grass, lavender, wild tobacco, Native American Tobacco.

Thank you so much to The “Dancing To Eagle Spirit Society” for the amazing article

Beat the winter blues this year by creating your very own salad factory that can run 365 days a year! Keith Roberto, author of “How To Hydroponics,” takes us through the process step-by-step.

There are many ways to grow lettuce hydroponically. Here’s a system that’s simple, inexpensive ($20-$30 complete) and “complex” enough to satisfy any first timer’s appetite for a fun project that actually works pretty well. It’s called the “Raft System.” In concept, the raft system does exactly as it says. Plants are grown in Styrofoam “rafts” that float in a shallow pool of nutrient solution. To keep the nutrient from stagnating, a small air pump is used to deliver oxygen to the solution and the eagerly awaiting roots.

Parts List

(1) 14 Gallon Roughtote reservoir
(1) Single outlet air pump (Elite 801)
(1) 2’ x 2’ x 1.5” rigid foam sheet
(9) 2” net cups
(1) 6’ x 1/4” air tubing
(1) Air stone
(1) Small bag of LECA
(9) Seed starting/rooting plugs
(1) 1/4” compression grommet
+ Hydroponic nutrients

Tools You’ll Need

Electric or battery powered drill
3/8” or 1/2” chuck 1 7/8” hole saws for cutting plant sites
3/8”drill bit for drilling grommet hole
Jigsaw or coping saw for cutting foam
Razor knife for cutting tubing
A pen or marker

Step 8: Fill ‘er up! Add water, nutrients and plug in your pump: your raft garden will start gurgling and your plants will grow in no time – don’t forget to give them plenty of light and top off the nutrient solution every time it drops 2-4” or so. It’s also a good idea to completely flush and clean your raft system every other harvest using a 10% bleach solution and scrub brush.

The Perfect Environment For Lettuce

Temperature: Lettuce prefers cooler temperatures. It bolts rapidly if things get too hot, especially if temps exceed 80 to 85°F (27 to 29°C). Ideal temps for most commonly grown varieties: 64 to 70°F (18 – 21°C) during the day and 55 to 61°F (13 to 16°C) at night. Higher temperatures can also cause burning on the leaf tips.

Relative Humidity (RH): 60 to 80 percent.

Nutrient Solution pH: 5.5 and 5.8 and EC from 0.6 to 1.0

Lighting: Compact fluorescents are ideal for the production of salad greens indoors. Lights should be switched on for 14-18 hours per day. Increasing nitrogen levels if growing under longer day lengths will speed up growth significantly.

Eager for more DIY hydro-projects? Check out Keith’s website, and stay tuned for more weekend projects from Urban Garden Magazine!

Are the people at Sesame Street still this cool? Would this even get made these days?

Endo & Ecto Mycorrhizal Fungi plus beneficial bacteria and start up nutrients.
Hey guys, there are a bunch of beneficial grow medium inoculates available. Some are freeze dried and activate when touching roots and water, others are still wet and should be added to water then applied. The price variation on these two different types of Mycorrhizal fungi is extreme, that’s because the wet kind is much more costly to manufacture and distribute. Plant success makes both types. The granular version, pictured here, is of the less expensive variety, however, after testing it a few times now, I actually whole heartily recommend this as a perfect addition to your transplanting program. If you can afford it, use this with Great White for a super power packed punch. Here’s a super important fact and tip. Plants use Mycorrhizal fungi as a means to absorb and use Phosphorous. Phosphorous being the exact nutrient plant need to create flowers and fruits, so you can see why  Mycorrhizal fungi is such a big deal now!

Food is not what it used to be. The limitations of language prevent us from collectively recognizing it as anything else, but a processed TV dinner does not and cannot replace living whole foods. Think about it, all food was completely intact and untouched by industrialization as little as 100 years ago. Instead of being used as a tool to work within nature, modern “science” has been used as a means to outmaneuver her, and what an astonishing job we have done.

For instance, a study of 45 corn varieties developed from 1920 to 2001 found that concentrations of proteins, oil and three important amino acids have all declined in the newer varieties. Similarly, six minerals have declined by 22-39 per cent in 14 widely grown wheat varieties developed over the past 100 years. We may think we are being healthy when we eat our broccoli, but USDA nutrient data shows that the calcium content of broccoli has dropped from 12.9 milligrams dry weight in 1950 to only 4.4 milligrams in 2003. (Full Study: “Declining Fruit and Vegetable Nutrient Composition,” HortScience, 2009; 44:15)

The two forces at work on crops are what are called the “environmental dilution effect” and the “genetic dilution effect.” Researchers have known since the 1940s that an emphasis on empty fertilizers results in cheaper food that is devoid of minerals, but our economic system is driven by volume and shelf life, not nutritional value. We cannot see nutrient density in food, so a bushel of corn fortified with more minerals than the next bushel sells for the same or less as the empty corn right next to it and further down the spiral we go. The economic incentive associated with the volume of food produced trumps the reason we are actually growing the food in the first place.

The genetic dilution effect is a result of the environmental dilution effect. Farmers and plant breeders caught up in a system that pays them for the amount of physical food they produce develop high-yielding varieties without a primary focus on nutrient density. In most modern fruits and vegetables around 80-90 per cent of the dry weight are carbohydrates, much higher than it should be relative to the amount of protein. Dr. William Albrecht provides evidence for the importance of this in his book Soil Fertility & Animal Health.

The human coercion of food has occurred on so many different levels that it leaves no smoking gun. However, there are examples that serve to illustrate our misguided ways. One reason our food is empty is an overemphasis of elements such as nitrogen (N) or potassium (K), which both give a strong growth and yield response, at the expense of elements such as calcium (Ca) or phosphorous (P). In order to grow strong bones and teeth we need high levels of Ca and P, not high levels of N and K. In his landmark book Nutrition and Physical Degeneration, Weston Price proved that traditional diets had five times the Ca and P as a modern diet of industrially-grown processed foods, resulting in significant reductions in dental decay and developmental abnormalities.

Consider this: a plant has a limited reservoir of potential to take up nutrition. In the same way that the negatively charged soil has a finite ability to hold onto cations (or + charged elements, see ‘cation exchange capacity’) a plant is also restricted in its ability to take up only a certain volume of positively charged elements. You can’t fit five gallons of water in a one gallon bucket can you? Ca is taken up far slower than K by plants. In an experiment with alfalfa it was found that the Ca:K ratio of 32:1 in the soil resulted in only a 3:1 ratio in the plant and it turns out that plants can take up more K than they need for optimum yields and nutrient density. When this happens it doesn’t leave room for the other cations (Ca+, Mg+, Na+, Cu+, Zn+, Fe+, trace+, etc.). Similarly, the major anions (- charged elements) appear to have the same sum-total limits on anion saturation, so P uptake is equally manipulated by the overuse of nitrate (NO3-) based fertilizers common in gardening and farming. The result is empty food.

We’ve established that it is necessary to provide plants a broader range of mineral elements in order for them to attain a higher nutrient density and be the vitamin they are designed to be, but it turns out the picture is much larger. Complete nutrition is not only important in regards to the plant itself, it involves an ecosystem. In fact, by focusing on the plant at the expense of the ecosystem, we sell short all of the varying means of symbiotic assistance plants have available to them, namely the help of micro-organisms.

Micro-organisms are vital to our existence, not only in building soil and helping to produce our food, but in helping us digest our food and protecting us from disease from enemy microbes, same as they do for plants. A teaspoon of good compost will easily have over a billion organisms and, similarly, a human not taking antibiotics has more foreign cells from micro-organisms in and on our bodies than we do human cells. It has been determined that plants actually use upwards of 40 elements, much more than the 16 or so we have defined “essential,” but the idea of “essential nutrients” does not apply at all to microbes; they utilize literally all of them.

For instance, it has been established that over half of the energy a plant creates for itself is exuded though its roots to attract specific microbes via what are called exudates. This means that when there are specific mineral deficiencies or pathogenic organisms present in and around plants they have the ability to attract the specific microbes necessary to aid them in the deficiency or disease. All of this intelligence is lost when we are not considering microbiology in regards to plant growth. Even if we are actively encouraging the biology in our plant growing situations, we are limiting the potential of this biological response by not allowing the microbes all of the physical elements to work with. A plant may only use 40 elements, but the microbes that protect and help it eat use every single element to manifest the amino acids, hormones, enzymes and various metabolic compounds that allow it to perform its duty.

“Traditional diets had five times the calcium and phosphorous as a modern diet of industrially-grown processed foods.”

This concept can be proven by doing a simple experiment brewing compost tea. Conduct a side-by-side experiment using a biologically balanced compost with a food source such as fish emulsion, kelp or molasses. Expose these ingredients to oxygen by using an air stone in each bucket using similar amounts of water. After setting up the experiment and ensuring that the exact same ingredients are used in both variables, include one tablespoon per five gallons of water of a biodynamically enhanced micronutrient in one container and not in the other. After only a couple of hours you will be able to see the enhanced biomass in the micronutrient-treated solution with the naked eye. The organisms can simply do more of what they want to do given all of the means to do it. Consider that micro-organisms use each element as a primer to carry out the communication delivered from its genetic code and to build the compounds necessary for them to do their work (and to benefit your plants). In all reality, no organism can carry out their true genetic expression without all the tools necessary to carry out the communication. What if you hired someone to build your house and only gave them half the tools? If they could build the house at all, it will take them a heck of a long time!

Big picture, any living organism, including humans, cannot operate at maximum efficiency without access to all of the physical elements. Cells are the bottom line in life. When we operate on the level of mere “essential nutrients” we are feeding them fast food. This doesn’t kill them, as it doesn’t kill us, but we are selling ourselves short. Trace elements govern the potential of health for living organisms and all of them are needed for health. In short, gardening without all possible elements at our disposal is degeneration and the result of pest infestations, weeds in our landscapes and disease.

Everyone knows that health is derived from what you eat, not how much of it. The hydroponics community is awash in stimulants and amendments designed to make plants grow bigger/stronger/faster, but it’s time we take a look at plant growth from a plants perspective. An obese plant may give us a higher yield, but in the end is it working in our favor?

Thanks To Maximum Yield for the great read – Original Page here – by Evan Folds

Aloha Friday Everyone! How is the state of your organic gardening? Are you using organic plant food? If not (shame on you JK) it’s a great time to try a couple plants or a whole round with General Hydroponics new organic plant food line, simply called General Organics. This stuff has a serious buzz going around it right now. At the trade show a few months back, GH was handing out samples and allot of us around here have had a chance to try it since then. Everyone unanimously ruled that GO is a great nutrient line. We have yet to try it in a hydroponic scenario, but in soil, soil less/coco mixes and compost based, outdoor gardening, GO kicked ass. Solid flavor and yield is what was reported the most. Usually a smaller crop is what people expect when using organic plant food, but I think this is a great example of another organic nutrient (like our very own Local Harvest) that can really pump out a bumper crop if you sincerely try it. We are super excited to finally have all three stores fully stocked with the full line of GO products. We wanted to test it out first before we unleashed it on to you all. This is something I don’t think most other stores do. Come on in and grab some today and see what all the talk is about for yourself!

Hey guys, I just made a groovy new friend – HeavyPetal.com is a great blog on gardening that has a fun tongue and cheek way of informing growers on new and interesting grow techniques, I strongly suggest you check them out!

Well, if I didn’t see it for my own three eyes, opps I mean two eyes..hehe I would never believe it, but Lumigrow LED grow light has these marigolds poppin off!! It’s been more then fun to watch, and people are instantly attracted to the purple and blue light it makes. I’m actually pretty impressed how robust the growth has been in such a relatively short amount of time. If you scroll down, and check the blog on LED grow lights from Lumigrow, just last week, you can see how much explosive growth has taken place. Come on in and check it out for yourself. LED grow lights actually work. I am seriously considering trying one for a vegetative growth experiment.

A message from PGS CEO, Matt Hayden -  “I hope your garden is enjoying some hearty growth and that you are as happy and healthy as your crop! We have been undergoing so many changes as a company. Changes that have been a challenge as well as an adventure at times. Managing 3 retail locations and a central warehouse that acts as a distribution hub for all three stores is a super exciting venture, one I look forward to everyday. Our new changes have included many new employees, including Steph Powers, our new in house Botanist, Sara Little, our new Human Resources person, Angelina, a fresh face in sales, and our new HWY 12 location manager, Jaime. Jaime speaks Spanish and is at HWY 12 Mon-Thurs and at the warehouse on Saturdays. One of the other big changes around here is our new ultra fancy POS system. We had a tremendous amount of problems with our old POS system, and we apologize to all our customers who have patiently stuck by us during this incredibly hard time. Our new system allows us to communicate internally, from store to store, and to keep our stores more efficiently stocked. Inventory has been a major issue for us, and we are really happy to have made such vast improvements. I know everyone will enjoy shopping at PGS more then ever during the next few months and the following years. So many of you call almost daily over here or to one of our other stores, and I thought It would be neat to put a face and a name to the voices you talk to when you call PGS. Don’t hesitate to call us and ask for one of our friendly team members. I personally would like to thank all our customers on behalf of everyone here at PGS for being in our growing family. If you have have any comments or suggestions for PGS please feel free to comment below, call 1-866-pgs-grow or send us an email.  We more then appreciate your time and input!”

Hey guys, so we get a ton of people asking lately about LED grow lights. It has been a topic I have purposely stayed away from just because I honestly have not believed in the technology. That is until recently. A company named Lumigrow has made a 330 watt unit that has performed surprisingly well under our test conditions. We planted a few Marigold and Pepper seeds in our cold and industrial warehouse and the plants have grown big and green in a relatively short time even here at our non ideal environment of a retail store. I thought for sure that the cold and dust and the low wattage of the LED unit would equate into slow growing, struggling plants. Actually guys these seedlings loved the no heat scenario and have really taken off fast. Everyone was super impressed and surprised around here, and it definitely made us all think twice about the potential of LED grow lights.

I strongly encourage all of you to check out their website and then come on down to our warehouse location @ 3715 Santa Rosa Ave. and see for yourself how nice these plants look. We have the newest Lumigrow LED grow lights for sale and available right now.

1-866-PGS-GROW

The single term used to describe underground, soil line, or crown rots of seedlings due to unknown causes is damping-off . The term actually covers several soil borne diseases of plants and seed borne fungi.

Rhizoctonia root rot (Rhizoctonia solani) is a fungal disease which causes damping-off of seedlings and foot rot of cuttings.  Infection occurs in warm to hot temperatures and moderate moisture levels.  The fungi is found in all natural soils and can survive indefinitely.  Infected plants often have slightly sunken lesions on the stem at or below the soil line.  Transfer of the fungi to the germination room or greenhouse is easily accomplished by using outdoor gardening tools inside or vice versa.  The germination room should not be used for mixing potting soils or transplanting seedlings as a general rule.

Pythium Root Rot (Pythium spp.) is similar to Rhizoctonia in that it causes damping-off of seedlings and foot rot of cuttings.  However, infection occurs in cool, wet, poorly-drained soils, and by overwatering.  Infection results in wet odorless rots.  When severe, the lower portion of the stem can become slimy and black.  Usually, the soft to slimy rotted outer portion of the root can be easily separated from the inner core.  Species of Pythium can survive for several years in soil and plant refuse.

Phytophthora root rot (Phytophthora spp.) are usually associated with root rots of established plants but are also involved in damping-off.  These species enter the root tips and cause a water-soaked brown to black rot similar to Pythium. These fungi survive indefinitely in soil and plant debris.

Black root rot (Thielaviopsis basicola) is a problem of established plants.  It does not occur in strongly acid soils with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5.  It usually infects the lateral roots where they just emerge from the taproot.  The diseased area turns dark brown, and is quite dry.  The fungi survive for 10 years or more in soil.

Miscellaneous fungi causing similar symptoms include Sclerotinia (white mold), Sclerotium rolfsii, Macrophomina phaseoli, some species of Botrytis (gray mold), Aphonomyces, Fusarium, Cylindrocladium, and others.  Hence the need for the collective term known as damping-off.

Symptoms of Damping-off:

Seeds may be infected as soon as moisture penetrates the seed coat or a bit later as the radicle begins to extend, all of which rot immediately under the soil surface (pre-emergence damping-off). This condition results in a poor, uneven stand of seedlings, often confused with low seed viability. Cotyledons may break the soil surface only to whither and die or healthy looking seedlings may suddenly fall over (post-emergence damping-off).  Infection results in lesions at or below the soil line. The seedling will discolor or wilt suddenly, or simply collapse and die.  Weak seedlings are especially susceptible to attack by one or more fungi when growing conditions are only slightly unfavorable. Damping-off is easily confused with plant injury caused by insect feeding, excessive fertilization, high levels of soluble salts, excessive heat or cold, excessive or insufficient soil moisture, or chemical toxicity in air or soil.

Above ground symptoms of root rot include stunting, low vigor, or wilting on a warm day. Foliage of such plants may yellow and fall prematurely starting with the oldest leaves.  The roots of a diseased plant will have some shade of brown or black and evidence of water-soaking.  Healthy roots are fibrous appearing and are usually white or tan in color. These symptoms are easily confused with severe mite, aphid, scale infestations, or root-feeding by nematodes or insect larvae. Environmental factors such as accumulated salts in the soil, insufficient light or nitrogen, potbound roots, cold drafts, etc. can be eliminated only by examination of the roots.

Damping-off diseases can be prevented:

• Purchase disease free plants and seeds.  Know your supplier.  Do not be afraid of fungicidal coatings on seeds which will be direct sown out doors in cold soils, such as corn and peas. Seed borne disease can also be avoided by soaking the seeds for 15 minutes in a bleach soak (one teaspoon per quart of water) prior to sowing.
• Use sterile well drained soil mediums. See article on soil mixes. Try to maintain a soil mix pH at the low end of the average scale, i.e. 6.4 pH is less susceptible to root rot than a pH of 7.5.  Commercially prepared germination mixes usually have a pH around 5.5.  As you water the seed pots and your seedlings with tap water (which in many municipalities is quite alkaline), the pH in your pots gradually increases as does the susceptibility to damping-off diseases.  Know the pH of your tap water, and condition it if necessary to maintain a lower pH while the plants are still in the germination room.  I prefer the use of vinegar at the rate of one tablespoon per gallon of water.
• Plants must not have their crowns below the soil line.  Seeds must not be covered more than 4 times the thickness of the seed.
• Use plant containers with drainage holes, water from the bottom only, and avoid excess watering. Do not allow pots to stand in water as excess water cannot drain and the roots will be starved for oxygen bringing all growth to a halt.
• Avoid overcrowding  and overfeeding of plants.  It is important to maintain constant levels of growth through proper lighting and complete control of the growing environment.
• Avoid working with plants (taking cuttings or transplanting) when the soil is wet. Do not use water from ditches or drainage ponds or rain barrels in the germination room.
• Avoid spreading soil from infested areas or tools which have been used out of doors. Disinfect tools and containers with one part bleach in four parts water or with 70 percent rubbing alcohol (isopropyl).
• In the germination room,  sow all your seeds on the surface of the media, then cover the seeds to necessary depth with a material which is less likely to harbor fungi than the media itself.  Use one or more of the following seed toppings instead of soil mix:
  • milled sphagnum moss
  • chick grit
  • course sand or fine aquarium gravel
  • composted hardwood bark (steamed)
• In the germination room, mist seedlings in communal pots or flats once or twice per day with water containing a known anti-fungal agent such as:
  • Captan (or other approved fungicide) especially if walls or floors are damp, or
  • Cheshunt compound, a copper/aluminum formulation, or
  • chamomile tea, or
  • clove tea, or
  • a  one-time light dusting of powdered cinnamon on the soil surface, or
  • a one-time light dusting of powdered charcoal on the soil surface, or
  • if stinging nettle is endemic in your area, make a fermented infusion to use like clove tea.           These last five actions are suggested by sufficient anecdotal evidence to prove  the existence of a low level of fungicidal activity.  I would not hesitate to use them in germination environments which have no history of damping-off diseases.
• Rotate plantings on a 2 to 3 year schedule using plants from different families in order to starve out existing pathogens.
• Provide constant air movement not tied in with the light timer.  Air should move freely 24 hours per day, but not directly aimed at the plants.  This helps the seedlings to aspirate, and excess soil moisture to wick. If you do everything else right but do not provide plenty of air movement, you will still get damping-off.

So, what do I do?  Answer:  all of the above, all of the time.

Damping-off diseases can be controlled:

Fungicides may be applied as a soil drench after planting.  They may be incorporated into the soil before planting as a dust. They can be sprayed in mist form on all seedlings as a precaution until they have been transplanted into individual pots. Once transplanted, only those seedlings known to be especially sensitive to damping-off need be misted with fungicide daily until the first or second seed leaves have emerged.  The following chemicals are not recommended for use by the average recreational gardener, but may still be available for use (if not yet banned), providing  the manufacturer’s instructions are followed to the letter.

Captan (sold as Captan) controls most pathogens, but not Rhizoctonia.

Metalaxyl (sold as Subdue or Apron) controls Pythium, Phytophthora,  and Aphanomyces.

Iprodione (sold as Chipco) controls most pathogens, but not Pythium, Phytophthora, or Aphanomyces.

Etridiazole and Thiophanate-methyl (sold as Banrot) controls most all pathogens.

PCNB-etridiazole (sold as SA-Terraclor or Super-X) good general purpose fungicide.

PCNB-quintozene (sold as Terraclor, Fungi-clor, or PCNB) controls Rhizoctonia and Sclerotinia species.

Fosetyl-A1 (sold as Aliette) controls Pythium, Phytophthora, & Aphanomyces.

Well, you get the idea.  There are too many to list, and they go on and off the market very quickly (mostly because they are very dangerous when used improperly, and some are too dangerous to have been put on the market at all.)

So, what do I use?  Answer: Just enough Captan as needed.

The Future of Damping Off Control: 

Biocontrol with microbial fungicides is being investigated in several academic labs.  Typical targets are those plants being mass-produced in nearby commercial greenhouses.  Early results indicate damping-off prevention comparable to that achieved with the use of standard fungicidal drenches like those mentioned above.   However, there remain some notable drawbacks in biocontrol of damping-off.

First, microbial fungicides act against only one species of root or stem rot, and must be applied in advance.  So, in order to prevent damping-off, you must know in advance which species of Pythium or Rhizoctonia or other fungi is likely to attack your crop.  That limits their use to large production facilities.

Second, some formulations of microbial fungicides have been shown to produce substances that are phytotoxic to certain crops.

Finally, small changes in environmental conditions during test periods seem to cause significant differences in test results.

There is much work to be done in this area of biocontrol, not to mention the ultimate necessity of EPA approval.  Use of biocontrol agents for prevention of damping off by home gardeners may well be decades away.  For a list of those biocontrol products which have approval for controlling plant diseases, go to the USDA ARS Biocontrol Plant Diseases Laboratory at    http://www.barc.usda.gov/psi/bpdl/bpdl.html

Thanks to Tom Clothier for the article, original page here

Nutrient temperature

It can be beneficial to maintain the nutrient solution temperature within a range of 68-77oF. This will usually be achieved if the air temperature is controlled.

Still too cold? A cold nutrient solution (or cold roots) can lower nutrient uptake. If nutrient temperature remains excessively low, a ‘water heater’ can be used (figure one).

Too hot? Hot nutrient can cause disease and suppressed nutrient oxygen levels. Small tank volumes can be maintained by placing frozen water bottles directly into the nutrient solution. However, for convenience (or larger tanks), a ‘water-chiller’ may be required.

In either situation, burying tanks underground will provide insulation against extreme temperatures.

Nutrient disinfection

It is common to blame the nutrient for poor growth results. However, in many cases, the true cause is poor hygiene practices, especially the failure to regularly disinfect the nutrient solution. To prevent disease ingress (figure two), the nutrient solution, medium, roots (etc.) should be regularly sterilized.

Sterilizing agents must yield a residual chemical when dissolved in the working nutrient solution so that the entire system is treated each time plants are watered. Historically, chlorine dioxide, sodium hypochlorite and monochloramine are used for this purpose. However, monochloramine has the advantage of possessing a long half-life, is gentle on roots and is compatible with the majority of organic mediums and growth promotants.

Oxygenation (Aeration) of nutrient

Plants consume oxygen via their roots for the process of respiration. For this to occur, the oxygen must be dissolved in the nutrient solution. This is achieved via aeration.

Aeration methods: As seen with stagnant water, simply exposing a body of water to air does not aerate it. System design generally determines how much oxygen becomes dissolved in the nutrient. Maximum aeration is achieved by breaking the water up into as small a particle size as possible via a tumbling treatment (e.g. waterfall, fountain, etc). In hydroponic systems, aeration can be achieved by:

• Delivering the nutrient solution via spray jets.
• Designing the hardware (for re-circulating systems only) such that the nutrient splashes into the reservoir when it returns from the roots.

In either case though, it is critical to ensure that the air is well ventilated where the aeration occurs; otherwise that air will quickly become depleted of oxygen or stale – figure three.

An air stone and air pump can also be used. Air stones have the added advantage of promoting circulation of the nutrient reservoir to ensure it is evenly mixed (figure four). Make sure to position the pump in a well ventilated area.
Note: Oxygen also aids in keeping the nutrient sterile due to its mild disinfecting properties.

To support optimum plant growth, a nutrient solution generally requires a minimum oxygen concentration of around three milligrams per quart. It is generally noted that super-oxygenation fails to deliver improved growth results.

Also, there is a common belief that high temperatures cause oxygen levels to become inadequate. However, by referring to the table you can see that water can hold seven milligrams per quart of oxygen when at 104oF. Growth problems at higher temperatures could be attributed to photorespiration, increased bacteriological activity, etc.

Because new roots are the main supply path for oxygen, if new root growth is restricted then oxygen supplies will be restricted. Hence, when selecting pots/channels, ensure they will accommodate the likely root volume of the plants when at full maturity. Failure to do so may prevent the plants from reaching maturity.

Minimize exposure of nutrient and roots to light

Light will accelerate the growth of algae and pathogens. Further, some brands of chelated trace elements can decompose from exposure to UV light, which causes them to become unavailable for root up-take. Therefore, minimize exposure to light as much as possible by placing a lid on the nutrient reservoir, and other regions of the system where nutrient is exposed to direct light.

In achieving this, ensure the design allows adequate ventilation of air otherwise this air will become humid and susceptible to disease. For example, when placing a lid on the reservoir, have it in a raised position so that air can freely enter and exit (figure three).

Thanks to Maximum Yield For the article.. Original Page Here

by Andrew Taylor