Friday, July 03rd, 2009 | Author: Pete

Happy Aloha Friday gang! Ok, we have had allot of fun this week with videos on off topics, social activism etc… Today we are going to get hardcore and talk about some seriously advanced techniques on how to approach your garden in a highly technical and scientific way. Allot of these things have not been covered in previous blog posts, so I will go slow but I will also include links to help you gain knowledge. These are all things any serious gardener should know.

Water Temperature

liquidsandtempseekcommonlevelOne of the most overlooked issues in a garden is the water temperature. Imagine how you like to bathe in water then apply that to your plants. If that water is too cold it can create stress and wilting, if its too hot you have a myriad of other issues that can arise. Also plant nutrients tend to work best at certain ranges. Be aware of how cold or how hot your plant water is. Room temp is always the best bet unless you have a really hot room :) Ideal temps for hydro is 18 to 27 degrees C. Try experimenting with temperatures and see for yourself the effects. Do some research, the temp. of your water greatly effects the amount of oxygen levels in your water which in turn greatly effects the amount of growth your plant has. Always try and give your plants the correct temperature water and you will see better results.

PPM / EC

tri_meterIf your not already using a PPM or EC measurement device on your plants water, your only guessing that you have dosed your water with the necessary amount of food. PPM stands for “parts per million” and it is a way to determine the amount of dissolved solids in a solution. EC stands for “electro conductivity” and it measures the amount of electric current the solution is capable of carrying. Both of these standards can tell you a tremendous amount about your plants and the water your feeding them. PPM is great for knowing how much nutrient is available in your solution for the plants, in general We recommend to everyone to keep your ppm below 1000ppm unless you have learned how to give your plants more then that. The EC can tell you how much nutrient is available in a solution too, but more importantly, the EC tells you something much more valuable. The EC of the water AFTER you water your plants is the telltale variable for success. If the EC of your water goes down after you water your plants, then the plants are absorbing nutrient from the solution, if the EC goes up, then you know that you are giving your plants too much food. Remember EC is measuring the amount of electricity capable of being carried in the water, the higher that number is the more nutrients are available in your water, so if the EC is fluctuating, then your know you have metabolic response occurring in your plants. A sure sign of trouble is an EC that continues to get higher and higher after each watering. The great thing about this technique is you can diagnose a serious nutrient issue and resolve it before its a problem, and it makes determining if you have nutrient burn or a deficiency an easy task. STOP GUESSING !! How many times have you just guessed at what your plants problems were and ended up overdosing or under dosing your plants?

Understanding whats going on with your plants is so crucial and so overlooked by most gardeners. So many people are happy as long as their plants are not dead and as long as they get “something”. This is fear based gardening and unfortunately too many of us suffer from it. Your afraid to give more food, in case it will burn them, and you don’t want to back off the food, because you don’t want yellowing or worse. Even EC and PPM can’t tell you everything. There are several other factors to examine in your quest to be a scientist in your garden. Take it to the next level and try everything availible to you today to make your plants better!

PH - Potential of Hydrogen

ph_test_kitI’m sure you all know about PH, it is the amount of acid or alkalinity in your water. That is the amount of acid ( lower PH levels 5.7 - 2.0 ) and the amount of Base ( higher PH levels 6.0 - 9.0 ) your water contains. PH is super important as I’m sure you guys all know, but if your constantly adjusting your waters PH with up and down solution, you are setting yourself up for slippery slope. Ideal PH ranges in general for both hydro and soil applications are around 5.7 - 7.0. Most nutrient companies these days have buffered their food to work within a broad range of PH ranges and adding up and/or down to correct levels actually makes elements in the solution “drop out” leading to a myriad of other potential problems. Always try to resolve your PH issues with either adding more water to raise your PH or adding more nutrient to lower it. I watch people come into the store and buy bottle after bottle of PH up and down and then come in later and ask why did my crop fail? I’m not saying that you should never adjust your PH, I’m just saying avoid constantly adjusting it and when in doubt, don’t over use any chemical, restart fresh and get it right with the least amount of everything. Seriously fluctuating PH levels after watering is another sure sign of trouble down the way. You want your water to be as PH stable as possible, and by using less of everything, you will achieve this.

Now sure, PPM / EC and PH readings are all more advanced horticultural techniques, and if you have never been aware of these things then you have just received a nice amount of valuable knowledge. However, I would like to take this Aloha Friday post even further. Get ready to learn how to really understand whats going on with your plants.

Brix / Refractometers

800px-refractometerHow can you tell if a plant is truly growing to its full potential other then watching it turn green and form fruit or flowers? The answer is with a refractometer. This is a device that allows one to measure the amount of sugars in a given plant. You take a daily measure of your plants brix levels and if the sugar levels are going up then you know your plants are turning light into sugars and then into fruit, flowers or leaf. If your plant is not increasing in sugar production, then you know your need to make some adjustments. Wine and other fruit farmers use brix refractometers to measure the exact amount of sugars before a harvest, allowing them to get there product to market with the perfect amount of sweetness, not too much not too little. You too can control your harvests to this high degree of refinement. Even with crops that are concerned with essential oil and fragrance etc.. Everyone interested in growing better plants will benefit from a refractometer. I personally suggest this traditional handheld refractometer. We will have these available at our stores soon.

Basically guys, the more you educate yourself and use these tools, the better your harvests will be, both in quality and quantity. Have a fantastic weekend and try to apply some of these techniques in your garden and take it to new heights! ALOHA

Thursday, July 02nd, 2009 | Author: Pete

How many times have you walked past a public area where you live and noticed its a dust bowl of unused dead grass or dirt? Ever considered coming out in the middle of the night and planting fruits, flowers, and vegetables there, on your own, usually on private property? My guess is probably not. Well if you have not heard of this concept before, please allow us here at PGS to introduce you to an amazing movement that has its roots in London, but we sure could use some of this kind of activism in Sonoma County. It’s called Guerrilla Gardening . It’s such a brilliant premise for approaching change. Instead of complaining about neglected public areas, you can take on the problem yourself and plant gardens on others people property. Yes this is an illegal practice, but in all cases Guerrilla Gardeners improve and increase property values and help the community. I found a great site on Guerrilla Gardening Activism. A pioneer in the field is Richard Reynolds. He seems like a very intelligent and interesting fellow. I found his video on Seedbombs to be fantastic. It’s an urban version of Seedballs. I think an entire post on seedbombs will be necessary soon.

Imagine a world where kids plant incredible varieties of flowers, veggies, and fruits all over the urban landscape instead of spraying toxic hydrocarbon based paint, making graffiti and straight up vandalizing people property. I encourage anyone reading this to step up and take over a random neglected area in your neighborhood or beyond. Check out what this very cool guy has done so far and lets follow in his footsteps here in Sonoma County. Look what one guy can do. Imagine what we could do if we worked together!

PGS is proud to contribute and participate in intelligently planned Guerrilla Garden digs. If you want to get involved give us a call @ 1-866-PGS-GROW.

Wednesday, July 01st, 2009 | Author: Pete

Hey guys, I have been on a video tangent lately, and it doesnt end…. muahhhh. Seriously though, here is a great little video that shows inside the daily operations of a full scale hydroponic Lettuce facility. Notice the use of common products available at all PGS stores, including Oasis Cubes, Rapid Rooter Plugs, and Grodan Rockwool.

Wednesday, July 01st, 2009 | Author: Invited Guest

organic-gardening-hands1Organic nutrient manufacturers are very secretive about their recipes. This makes it very difficult to write about them except where I have seen the results. Some commercial organic nutrients have been certified by independent organic bodies. There are some products that are claimed to be organic but have not been certified. This may be simply because the manufacturer wants to keep the ingredients secret. In the cases where the nutrient is not certified you have to decide whether you trust the manufacturer. There have been cases where the producer just uses the word organic to mean that there is some part of the nutrient made from organic products with a base of chemicals.

It is a common myth that you cannot provide enough nitrogen with organic nutrients. With modern organic nutrients it is quite possible to over-fertilise with nitrogen, so always use the nutrients as recommended on the labels. Don’t assume stronger solutions are better. Too much, even of organic nitrogen, will result in weak growth that is more vulnerable to pest attack. This can provoke the production of too many leaves, few flowers and tasteless harvests.

Bio Sevia is one of the latest organic nutrients and will give excellent results surprising to those who may have tried older attempts at organic nutrients made by less technically-minded producers. I know some people who have managed to use the new Bio Sevia range in hydroponics but the technique is so intricate that it would require an article on its own. I would recommend only using organics in soil unless you want to learn degree-level hydroponics. The use of their Trichoderma fungus additive is very much recommended to drive the best results from your plant. Bio Sevia is certified organic by Qualité France.

Canna have recently revised and improved the formulae of their Bio Vega or Bio Flores. They should now give even better results than before. Simple to use they are another one part organic nutrient for use with soil. The ingredients are all plant extracts but only hops are specified on the labels. Hop waste is a very rich organic nutrient mostly obtained from the beer brewing industry. For the those who don’t know the hop, the hop vine is a massive, fast-growing plant that reaches 8 metres tall from ground level every year. The hop vine drags huge amounts of minerals through its large root system. One of the problems of growing hops is feeding them fast enough to keep up with their growth. The hop flowers contain lots of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus as well as most of the minor minerals that were present in the soil in which it was grown. Canna Bio Flores and Vega are certified organic by the official organic certification body for the Netherlands.

Another Dutch certified organic nutrient with as many satisfied growers as Canna is Bio Bizz. Although they do not reveal the ingredients they are all plant- and mineral-derived. As they a little cheaper than the Canna products they are used by the majority of organic growers whom I know. Perhaps that says more about my friends than the relative quality of the two nutrients.

An old favourite that is still used by many organically-minded gardeners is Earth Juice. The manufacturers give the ingredients on the label. So, if you want to add your own favourite additives you will know whether they are already in the mix. Because of the high content of bird and bat guano it can smell quite objectionably bad to some people. Earth Juice contains molasses so you will not need to add any carbohydrate additives like Carbo Load. Both the bloom and grow formulae contain phosphates and potash so you may not need to add them to your soil.

Most one part organic nutrients will be short of phosphorus and/or calcium as they are one part nutrients (not A & B). It is quite difficult to make calcium and phosphate soluble at the concentrations needed in a one part nutrient. This is quite easy to allow for by adding rock phosphate or bonemeal to your soil mixture. The fungi in your soil will make these available to the plant.

Local Harvest is another great organic liquid Organic nutrient that performs just like a salt/chemical based fertilizer would. Based out of Sebastopol Ca. They have a Grow and Bloom and a Calcium supplement. I have heard great things about this product.

Another way to feed your plants organically is to make your own “compost tea”. Though some of these are made from well-rotted garden compost dissolved in water there are simpler, faster methods. Garden manure will contain a large range of organisms, not just those that help your plants. It is not possible to reproduce the entire ecosystem indoors so you must select those that help. These live teas can be made from fresh plants and manures. Traditional recipes involved comfrey, nettles and other herbs rotted in water for two weeks. This produced a very stinky liquid that was very good for the plants.

Modern compost teas are made with fungal or bacterial starters Some contain both bacteria and fungi. An air pump is essential to ensure that the mixture stays oxygenated. Keeping high levels of oxygen in the tea reduces the smell to tolerable levels but it is still best to put your composting bucket in a relatively unused room. High oxygenation also benefits the better types of bacteria and fungi. Compost tea made without oxygenation could produce very high levels of the most dangerous fungi and bacteria, for you and your plants. Using Liquid Oxygen or other hydrogen peroxide solutions is not possible with compost teas as the useful organisms will die immediately they are added.

Bacteria-dominated teas should contain plenty of protein rich plant matter such as vegetable waste, especially from beans and leafy vegetables. The bacteria-dominated teas can be diluted and used as foliar sprays when plants are young.

Fungi-dominated compost teas should be given small amounts of molasses or other sugary foods to feed the fungi. Too much sugar can be detrimental producing an overgrowth of common yeast, it is best to add a little every day. Phosphates can be added by the action of the fungi or bacteria on rock phosphate or bat guano.

Compost teas must always be made with chlorine-free water. Chlorine is added to the water-supply because it kills a wide range of bacteria, fungi and other disease-causing organisms, having the same action as bleach. It will also kill your beneficial organisms. You can get rid of low levels of chlorine by leaving the water to stand overnight but to be absolutely sure use a charcoal-based water filter or Reverse Osmosis filter.

If you don’t like the idea of all this bother for your plant food, you can get the same benefits by using any of the liquid organic nutrients as a short cut. Make up the solutions in your reservoir as directed on the bottles. Add a bacterial or fungal starter. Keep the mixture heavily oxygenated by an air pump driving air through airstones. Clean the airstones regularly so they do not become blocked. Use the liquid to feed your plants whenever they need it. After a week make another batch of nutrient. If your mixture smells sweet and yummy you can keep a little of your old nutrient tea in the bottom of the reservoir to start the new batch. However, after some time you will lose some of the organisms you need and should add the starters occasionally. You do not have to wash your reservoir thoroughly, the beneficial organisms should be keeping the nasty ones in check

Thanks Urban Garden Magazine for the Article - Original Page Here

Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 | Author: Pete

Everyone uses Can filters to scrub, and clean the air from our gardens. Many people come into our stores asking us to please show them how to setup a MaxFan with their Can filter. CF Group has some great videos on youtube that show perfectly how to set it up. Here is a video on how to install the 8″ and the 10″ Max fan onto your can filter. Getting this right is a really important part of making a perfect indoor garden. Please let us know if you need any more help. 1-866-PGS-GROW

button_buy_now3

Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 | Author: Pete

Big thanks to everyone who attended our “Growing With Water” in-house seminar. Tom Boyd and CEO of PGS, Matt Hayden were both active and on hand to help explain this new and exciting water treatment technology. They both do a great job putting into words exactly what it is the Mobile Spring can offer your garden. Here is what was an extremely intensive seminar, broken down into three easy to watch 10 minute clips.

Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3

In short, the concept is, instead of using nutrients and other enhancers to make your plants bigger and healthier, address your water first, and make it as beneficial as possible using the Mobile Spring, then the nutrient you do use will be more effective and you will need to use less. We personally have seen tremendous results with the Mobile Spring and we are now offering it for sale at our retail locations for interested growers. Come and be a part of the latest in horticulture. 1-866-PGS-GROW

Thanks again to Tom and Jeff from Restorative Inc. for their time!

Monday, June 29th, 2009 | Author: Pete

How is the air flow in your garden? More then intake and ventilation, you must always think about moving that air around in your room. Air King wall mounted oscillating fans are a perfect solution for keeping the air in your room from going stagnant. Every corner of your garden should be constantly refreshed with blowing air to prevent powdery mildew, swarming insects, and heat build up. Having good air flow also increases plant transpiration and respiration rates, allowing you to water more often and get better harvests. One of the most common mistakes novice gardeners make is not having enough secondary air flow inside your room in addition to filtration and ventilation.

We carry 12″ 14″ 16″ and 18″ wall mount and pedestal style Air King fans. These fans have been around forever. We have many customers that buy Air King fans at our stores, and they tell us they still have Air Kings from over 10 years ago that are still working. There is no doubt that these fans are one of the best options for keeping the air in your room moving! 1-866-PGS-GROW button_buy_now1

Air King Fans
Commercial Grade Oscillating Pedestal, Wall Mount and Tower Fans
.
Ideal for workshops, health clubs, stores, classrooms, offices, hospitals and other areas where there is limited floor/table space.
.
Air King oscillating fans feature a 120 Volt permanently lubricated motor along with 3-conductor type SPT power cord. Head oscillates 90° or can be locked in a fixed position. Fan blade is constructed of chemical resistant polypropylene.
.
Oscillating Pedestal Fans Air King Fans Air King Fans

9119: The 18″ Oscillating Pedestal Fan features a 3-speed 1/20HP motor with rear mounted rotary controls and a 7′ white power cord. The grills are constructed of a powder coated steel front grill with an impact resistant plastic rear grill. Fan height is adjustable from 37″ to 53.75″  Dimensions: 20.25″L x 20.25″W x 53.75″  Weight: 13.80 lbs.

.
9126: The 16″ Oscillating Pedestal Fan features a 3-speed 1/20HP motor with rear mounted rotary controls and a 7′ white power cord. The grills are constructed of a powder coated steel front grill with an impact resistant plastic rear grill. Fan height is adjustable from 36″ to 52″  Dimensions: 18″L x 18″W x 52″  Weight: 11.30 lbs.
.
Oscillating Wall Mount Fans Air King Fans
Air King Fans
9018: The 18″ Oscillating Wall Mount Fan features a 3-speed 1/20HP motor with both pull chain and front mounted rotary controls and a 7′ white power cord. The grills are constructed of a powder coated steel front grill with an impact resistant plastic rear grill.  Dimensions: 20.25″L x 15.5″W x 23″  Weight: 10.90 lbs.
.
9016: The 16″ Oscillating Wall Mount Fan features a 3-speed 1/20HP motor with both pull chain and front mounted rotary controls and a 7′ white power cord. The grills are constructed of a powder coated steel front grill with an impact resistant plastic rear grill.  Dimensions: 18″L x 14.375″W x 22.625″  Weight: 10.50 lbs.
.
9012: The 12″ Oscillating Wall Mount Fan features a 3-speed 1/50HP motor with both pull chain and front mounted rotary controls and a 7′ white power cord. The grills are constructed of a powder coated steel front grill with an impact resistant plastic rear grill.  Dimensions: 15.625″L x 14.25″W x 20.75″  Weight: 8.30 lbs.
.
.
Compliances/Downloads:
Model
Compliances
Downloads
9119
OSHA, UL
9126
OSHA, UL
9018
OSHA, UL
9016, 9012
OSHA, UL
9215
OSHA, UL
.
Specifications:
9119, 9018
High
Med
Low
CFM
1710
1500
1330
RPM
1545
1394
1244
AMPS
.80
.71
.63
WATTS
77
65
57
dBA
53
49
44
9126, 9016
High
Med
Low
CFM
1710
1500
1330
RPM
1545
1394
1244
AMPS
.80
.71
.63
WATTS
77
65
57
dBA
53
49
44
9012
High
Med
Low
CFM
930
780
620
RPM
1450
1300
1090
AMPS
.40
.30
.27
WATTS
39
35
32
dBA
45
41
36
9215
High
Med
Low
FPM
715
580
455
RPM
1400
1140
875
AMPS
.36
.30
.25
WATTS
43
35
30
dBA
45
39
33
Air King fans are tested in accordance with AMCA standard 230-99.
Friday, June 26th, 2009 | Author: Pete

Professional Gardening Systems Presents:

Happy Aloha Friday gang!! As part of our ongoing educational series of in-house seminars, videos, and audio podcasts, we are holding a 2 hour intensive on the topic of addressing water variables to increase yield.

Saturday June 27th, 3-5pm @ our warehouse location

3715 Santa Rosa Ave.  CA. 95407 #A7

water-drops-on-plantWe often turn to nutrient companies for help in increasing yields, enhancing flavors, and boosting the health of our plants. It is all too often that we over look the most essential part of growing, our water. While many of us use RO filtration or UV, or softeners etc.. This neglects to address anything other then filtration, and sterilization. If you have “bad water” quality or high levels of undesirable things in your water, a quality RO ( Reverse Osmosis ) filter may be necessary, but to gain the most from your water, PGS treats our water with what we call “The Restorative Effect” giving water a super charge of life and a a new ionic alignment, allowing plants to flourish at a higher growth rate.

This intensive seminar will be an introduction to the PGS water systems. Inspired by nature to optimize plant growth and yields. Topics will include.

  • Basics of water quality for horticulture.
  • Functional water, and its significance to production and high yields.
  • Effective ways to optimize your garden by addressing your water first.
  • Hands on demonstrations.

waterdrops

We have been fortunate to connect with some brilliant guys from Restorative Inc.

Tom Boyd,  self proclaimed “Biomimicry Educator” will be on hand to share his extensive experience and knowledge about how water alone can increase the yields and overall vigor and health of your plants.

Feel free to come on in right @ 3pm or call us and we will reserve a seat for you, 1-866-PGS-GROW. We are really excited to bring this data to you all, and we will be video taping it and posting a video podcast of the seminar asap, so don’t worry if you can’t attend, PGSGROW.COM continually strives to bring you all the most important advancements availible to our cultivation industry today. We look forward to seeing everyone soon!

Learn about your tap water before you come and gain more perspective on the seminar in advance - Click here for the Wiki page on Tap water

Thursday, June 25th, 2009 | Author: Invited Guest

Today I’m going to go over the benefits of using General Hydroponics coco baskets. They break down into three major groups, ease of use, root heath, and sustainability.

Easy to use: The coco baskets are matted coco fibers that are covered in a natural latex. They can be potted up with soil, or soilless media, like perlite, coir and hydroton. While you can easily use them in a conventional way, and water overhead, the coco baskets are ideal for ebb and flow. The baskets soak water and nutrients up from the ebb and flow tray. They basically let you drench the roots, because the water runs out immediately. The 8″ baskets, shown above have thin walls, about 1/8th inch thick, and the larger baskets have much wider walls, about 3/4 inch thick. All the sizes are incredibly light.

Root health: Indoors under lights, or outdoors under the glaring sun, black plastic pots get really really hot. The coco baskets are remarkably cooler. Air literally moves through the weave of the fibers, to directly cool the roots. And everyone knows, roots love oxygen. The baskets also eliminate larger plants becomming “root bound.” Roots can freely grow through the bottom and sides of the coco baskets.

Sustainability: Our coco products are the most ecologically sound products available. Coco is a sustainable fiber product and also is bio-degradable. But our baskets are sturdy and do not easily break down. 1-866-PGS-GROW

Thanks To GeneralHydroponics.com for the article - Original Post Here

Wednesday, June 24th, 2009 | Author: Invited Guest

by Michael P. Amaranthus, Ph.D. This article originally appeared in The Spring
1999 issue of Florida Landscape Architecture Quarterly, reprinted with
permission from the author.

Figure 1
Figure 1
An electron micrograph of a mycorrhiza on an evergreen seedling. Mycorrhizal filaments radiate into the soil from the mycorrhiza root tip.

Little things run the world. This is especially true when it comes to getting plants established. Under natural conditions plants live in close association with soil organisms called mycorrhizal fungi. These fungi colonize plant roots and extend the root system into the surrounding soil. (Figure 1.) Estimates of amounts of mycorrhizal filaments present in healthy soil are astonishing. Several miles of filaments can be present in less than a thimbleful of soil associated with vigorously growing plants. The relationship is beneficial because the plant enjoys improved nutrient and water uptake, disease resistance and superior survival and growth.

Figure 2
Figure 2
Maple (Acer spp.) seedling root systems. The seedling on the right was treated with a mycorrhizal root dip gel. The maple seedling on the left was an untreated control.

Nearly all commercially produced plants form mycorrhizae and require the association for maximum performance in outplanted environments. (Figure 2). This not-so-glorious association between plants and mycorrhizal fungi is fundamental to plant establishment and growth.Depending on the environment in which they are growing, plants may divert up to 80% or more of the net energy fixed as sunlight to below-ground processes. Some of this energy goes into root growth; but, a high proportion may be used to feed mycorrhizal fungi and other soil organisms. This is not energy that is lost to the plant. On the contrary, soil organisms living in the root zone greatly influence the ability of plants to establish through effects on nutrient cycling, pathogens, soil aeration, and soil water uptake. Of the various soil organisms that benefit plant establishment, the most is known about mycorrhizal fungi. Roughly 90% of plant species are thought to form mycorrhizae: the combination of fungal and root tissue is called the mycorrhiza and the fungal partner is termed a mycorrhizal fungus.

Commercial production of mycorrhizal fungi for practical use has been available in the last decade, however, the importance of mycorrhizal fungi has been evident for some 400 million years. The earliest fossil records of the roots of land plants contain evidence of the fossil remains of mycorrhizal fungi. Scientists now believe that the “marriage” of mycorrhizal fungus and plant played an essential role in the evolutionary step which brought aquatic plants from sea to land. At some point in the evolutionary process, a filament penetrated into the outer cells of a primitive plant root. Once there, it accommodated itself so nicely that a new, more complex entity emerged, the mycorrhiza. The increased absorbing area provided by an elaborate system of fungal filaments allowed aquatic plants to leave the marine environment and exploit a relatively harsh soil environment. In today’s man-made environments plants can be greatly stressed and the relationship between fungus and root is critical. Unnatural conditions such as concrete, asphalt, roadsides, sidewalk cut outs, trenching, drain fields, air pollution, shopping malls, business districts, and suburban developments adversely effect the presence and abundance of mycorrhizal fungi.

Figure 3
Figure 3
Construction sites typically compact the soil and remove organic matter and topsoil. These practices reduce or eliminate mycorrhizal fungi.

Man-made environments often suffer from compaction, top soil loss, and the absence of quality organic matter, conditions which reduce the habitat necessary for the mycorrhizal fungus to survive and thrive (Figure 3). Artificial landscapes effect the mycorrhizal relationship in two fundamental ways. First, they isolate the plant from beneficial mycorrhizal fungi available in natural settings and, secondly, they increase plant stress and the need for water, nutrients, and soil structure mediated by their below-ground “partners”.Fortunately, recent advancements in mycorrhizal research and application have made landscape applications with mycorrhiza easy and inexpensive. New products and knowledge result in increased transplant survival and lower long-term maintenance. However, to be successful the landscape contractor requires an appreciation of fungi beyond itchy toes and moldy bread.

Figure 4
Figure 4
“Cut-away” view of the root structure of conifer seedlings, enhanced and extended by a network of mycorrhizal filaments.

How do mycorrhizal fungi work?Mycorrhizal root systems increase the absorptive the absorbing area of roots 10 to 1000 times thereby greatly improving the ability of the plants to utilize the soil resource. (Figure 4). Mycorrhizal fungi are able to absorb and transfer all of the 15 major macro and micro nutrients necessary for plant growth. Mycorrhizal fungi release powerful chemicals into the soil that dissolve hard to capture nutrients such as phosphorous, iron and other “tightly bound” soil nutrients. This extraction process is particularly important in plant nutrition and explains why non mycorrhizal plants require high levels of fertility to maintain their health. Mycorrhizal fungi form an intricate web that captures and assimilates nutrients conserving the nutrient capital in soils. In non mycorrhizal conditions much of this fertility is wasted or lost from the system.

Mycorrhizal fungi are involved with a wide variety of other activities that benefit plant establishment and growth. The same extensive network of fungal filaments important to nutrient uptake are also important in water uptake and storage. In non-irrigated conditions, mycorrhizal plants are under far less drought stress compared to non mycorrhizal plants. In a recent study, true fir seedlings treated with mycorrhizal inoculum had 43 percent less plant moisture stress than non-treated control seedlings on a droughty, difficult to revegetate site. Tree vigor, color and needle retention were improved with the mycorrhizal treated plants (Figure 5). Rhizopogon mycorrhizae were abundant on the roots systems of the treated plants (Figure 6). Numerous studies have shown Rhizopogon spp. is an aggressive colonizer in non-irrigated and harsh field conditions.

Figure 5a Figure 5b
Figures 5a & 5b
Red fir seedlings (Abies magnifica) outplanted on a difficult to regenerate dry site. Seedling A was treated with a mycorrhizal inoculum; seedling B was not treated. Treated seedlings averaged 43% less moisture stress and 30% more needle retention.
Figure 6
Figure 6
A cluster of Rhizopogon mycorrhizae. A single root tip colonized by the Rhizopogon mycorrhizal fungus will branch into a densely packed coral-like accumulation of many root tips.

Disease and pathogen suppression is another benefit for a mycorrhizal plant. Mycorrhizal roots have a mantle (a tight, interwoven sock-like covering of dense filaments) that acts as a physical barrier against the invasion of root diseases. In addition, mycorrhizal fungi attack pathogen or disease organisms entering the root zone. For example, excretions of specific antibiotics produced by mycorrhizal fungi immobilize and kill disease organisms. Some mycorrhizal fungi protect pine trees from Phytophora, Fusarium and Rhizoctonia diseases. In a recent University study, pine trees were purposefully inoculated with the common disease organism- Fusarium. Over 90% of the pine trees died. Only the pine trees inoculated with the mycorrhizal fungus Rhizopogon survived. Survival rates for Rhizopogon treated pines exceeded 95%.Mycorrhizal fungi also improve soil structure. Mycorrhizal filaments produce humic compounds and organic “glues” (extracellular polysaccharides) that bind soils into aggregates and improves soil porosity.

Soil porosity and soil structure positively influence the growth of plants by promoting aeration, water movement into soil, root growth, and distribution. In sandy or compacted soils the ability of mycorrhizal fungi to promote soil structure may be more important than the seeking out of nutrients.

Does my soil already contain mycorrhizal fungi?

Soils in natural settings are full of beneficial soil organisms including mycorrhizal fungi. Research indicates, however, many common practices can degrade the mycorrhiza-forming potential of soil. Tillage, fertilization, removal of topsoil, erosion, site preparation, road and home construction, fumigation, invasion of non native plants, and leaving soils bare are some of the activities that can reduce or eliminate these beneficial soil fungi. In many man-made landscapes we have reduced or eliminated the soil organisms necessary for plants to function without high levels of maintenance.

Nursery grown plants available to landscape contractors are often deficient in mycorrhizae. Plants raised in most nurseries receive intensive care and feeding. The artificial conditions, high levels of water and nutrients and sterile soils at the nursery keep certain soil born diseases to a minimum and produce vast quantities of plants for sale. Unfortunately, the high levels of water and nutrients and the lack of mycorrhizae discourage the plant to produce the extensive root system it will need for successful transplantation. The result are plants poorly adapted to the eventual outplanted condition that must be weaned from intensive care systems and begin to fend for themselves. Application of mycorrhizal inoculum during transplanting can encourage plant establishment and set the plant on track to feed for itself. Research studies document the need of plants to generate a mycorrhizal roots system in order to become established. Maintaining intensive inputs is necessary until the extensive root system is achieved . There are practical solutions to some of the mycorrhizal deficiencies in man-made environments and reintroducing mycorrhizal fungi in areas where they have been depleted can dramatically improve plant establishment and growth.

What types of mycorrhizal products are available?A landscape contractor can enhance plant root growth and transplant success and ameliorate many problems that result from intensive care practices at the nursery. Plants grew and thrived on this planet for millions of years without intensive care. Nature provides the template. A more sustainable approach to plant establishment and growth includes using mycorrhizal fungi.

Certain mycorrhizal spores or “seeds” of the fungus have been selected for their establishment and growth-enhancing abilities. The goal is to create physical contact between the mycorrhizal inoculant and the plant root. Mycorrhizal inoculant can be sprinkled onto roots during transplanting, worked into seed beds, blended into potting soil, watered in via existing irrigation systems, applied as a root dip gel or probed into the root zone of existing plants. The type of application depends upon the conditions and needs of the applicator. Generally, mycorrhizal application is easy, inexpensive and requires no special equipment. Typically for small plants the cost ranges from less than a penny to a few cents per seedling. For larger plants more inoculum is needed and costs are higher.

Mycorrhizal products often contain other ingredients designed to increase the effectiveness of the mycorrhizal spores. For example, organic matter is often added to encourage microbial activity , soil structure and root growth. Stress vitamins improve nutrient uptake and builds root biomass. Water absorbing gels help “plaster” beneficial mycorrhizal spores in close proximity to feeder roots and encourage favorable soil moisture conditions for mycorrhizae to form and grow. Organic biostimulants, in general are effective ingredients in mycorrhizal products. By promoting field competitiveness, stress resistance and nutrient efficiency biostimulants reduce barriers for rapid mycorrhizal formation especially during the critical period following transplanting.

Mycorrhizal diversity is important

Natural areas generally contain an array of mycorrhizal fungal species. The proportions and abundance of mycorrhizal species often shifts following any disturbance. Not all mycorrhizal fungi have the same capacities and tolerances. Some are better at imparting drought resistance while others may be more effective in protecting against pathogens or have more tolerance to soil temperature extremes. Because of the wide variety of soil, climatic, and biotic conditions characterizing man-made environments, it is improbable that a single mycorrhizal fungus could benefit all host species and adapt to all conditions. For example, the types and activities of mycorrhizal fungi associated with young plants may be quite different from those associated with mature plants Likewise, mycorrhizal fungi needed to help seedlings establish themselves on difficult sites may differ from those which sustain productivity over a long-lived plant.

Diversity likely provides a buffering capacity not found on sites with only one or few species. The diversity of mycorrhizal fungi formed by a given plant may increase its ability to occupy diverse below-ground niches and survive a range of chemical and physical conditions.

Conclusions

The lack of mycorrhizal fungi on plant root systems is a leading cause of poor plant establishment and growth in a variety of forest, restoration, agricultural, suburban and urban landscapes. As we develop holistic approaches to understanding man-made environments we must factor in the inseparable connections to soil organisms. Mycorrhizal fungi are one of the more important groups of soil organisms and play a critical role in nutrient cycling, mediating plant stress and protecting against pathogens. They are also cornerstones in the ability of plants to survive transplant shock . Plants have co-evolved mutualistic relationships with symbiotic mycorrhizal fungi such that their survival and fitness depends upon the healthy functioning of these fungi and vice versa. Just as plants invest tremendous capital in the form of energy to fuel below-ground soil organisms, so too we must “look below the surface ” to understand and utilize these beneficial fungi.

Dr. Mike Amaranthus spent 20 years with Oregon State University and the USDA Forest Service where he authored over 50 research papers on mycorrhizae. He is a recipient of the USDA Department of Agriculture Highest Honors Award for scientific achievement and has been featured on several major national and international television programs.

Thanks to Fungi.com for the article - Original Page Here