At Pro Gardening Systems we carry a huge line of professional grow mediums, providing Sonoma County with the finest possible soils available for the indoor gardener. We have all of the soils below in stock……1-866-PGS-GROW

I thought we would talk about something different today. This blog is not just about indoor grow products, but about growing plants in general and these articles are simply fantastic and vital!

Lets Talk About Seed Balls.

What are they you ask? Seed Balls are seeds that have been blended with clay, compost, and nutrients to make a compact ball that will release the seeds perfectly over time. Here are two great articles on seed balls, what they are, and how to make them…..

Seed balls are very easy to make and are great for seeding waste areas in your yard.

We use a combo of wild flower, mustards, radish seeds and wheat to create a haven for beneficial insects.  We sow the balls in winter in our next-door neighbor’s yard.   They had a long piece of bare ground adjacent to our garden that was full of weeds and bermuda grass *yuck*.

This method has been successful in attracting many beneficial insects into the garden and has transformed the bare and unsightly spot into a beautiful wild garden.

Seed balls are a method for distributing seeds by encasing them in a mixture of clay and soil humus. Some native North American tribes used forms of seed balls. More recently natural farmer Masanobu Fukuoka has applied them, as have others inspired by his work.

Seed balls are simply scattered direct onto ground, and not planted. They could be useful for seeding dry, thin and compacted soils and for reclaiming derelict ground. This method takes a fraction of the time or cost of other methods to cover large areas and is also very applicable in small areas.

The clay and humus ball prevents the seeds from the drying out in the sun, getting eaten by predators like mice and birds, or from blowing away. When sufficient rain has permeated the clay and the seeds inside sprout they are protected within the ball that contains nutrients and beneficial soil microbes. Seed balls are particularly useful in dry and arid areas where rainfall is highly unpredictable. www.primalseeds.org

Looking for the latest in air filtration technology? Looking to save some space while still filtering the odors from your indoor garden? Tired of that HUGE can filter taking up space? We are too, and that’s why we are so excited about these new Air Box Charcoal Air filters. They boast a very heavy CFM specification, and feature a great new design that is both refreshing and functional. Instead of the traditional can style of air filter , they took a new approach and made a box filter that incorporates their unique kind of removable charcoal filter slabs. They come easily out of the box and can be inspected and changed as the charcoal inside starts to lose effectiveness. This is actually one of my favorite features as changing the carbon in a can fan is considerably more difficult. The efficiency of these fans is impressive. You can hook it up in-line with ducting so quickly that it had us all seriously considering turning this Air Box into our permanent air filter solution.

• Easy to install, easy to use, easy to maintain
• Adaptable to any duct/filtering system
• Replaceable high-flow carbon filters
• 100% premium virgin coconut charcoal
• 100% air tight, continuous worry-free operation
• 100% of the filter surface area is used
• 1000 to 3400 CFM (Available in 6”, 8”, 10”, 12”)
• For commercial or residential applications
• Made in the USA

Come in to one of our grow store locations and check out an Air Box for yourself to see what all the hype is about! 1-866-PGS-GROW

Are you pushing enough air in your room to keep it fresh and clean? Do you suffer from stagnant air and poor circulation? If you need to push some serious air around your room, or into or out of your indoor grow room. Then you should consider a Can-Fan Max. These little babies push some serious air. They are the most powerful and efficient centrifugal fans you can buy. The manufacturer calls them “silent” but thats a bit of a stretch! They do have a bit more of a decibel range when compared to a Vortex fan. However, if maximizing air flow is your goal, then these fans will make you very happy! When purchasing a fan, you must always consider how big of a fan you need and how many “cfm” or (cubic feet per minute) you need. I found this handy AirFlow Calculator to help you figure out exactly what you need. Max fans come in the following sizes and specs.

• CFM8 Can-Fan 8” Max Fan 675 c.f.m. Blower
• CFM10 Can-Fan 10” Max Fan 1023 c.f.m. Blower
• CFM12 Can-Fan 12” Max Fan 1709 c.f.m. Blower
• CFM14 Can-Fan 14” Max Fan 1823 c.f.m. Blower

The Can-Fan Max brings centrifugal fans to a new level. More powerful and efficient than standard centrifugal fans, the Max Fan has the power to move a lot of air efficiently. Comes with an 8′ power cord and a 5 year warranty. call 1-866-PGS-GROW to get more info or to order your max fan today!

There are several choices to make when it comes time to pick a quality nutrient formula for your plants. The more informed you are, the more likely it is that you will achieve the goals you set for yourself. Cutting Edge Solutions offer a fantastic, economical, high quality formula that gardeners on any level can use and get great results. They offer tons of helpful information on their website including a well thought out mixing and reference chart.

Here is some information they provide……….

Cutting Edge Solutions three part hydroponic nutrients were developed in Northern California, where a wide range of water quality issues and diverse micro-climates can make hydroponic growing difficult.

We have our own research greenhouses that provide us with the ability to develop our specialty plant nutrients. After successful trials these nutrient formulas become Cutting Edge Solutions products, and we offer them to the rest of the growing world.

As well as our own trials, the development of our products has been influenced in part by large-scale growers, hobbyists and Hydroponic store staff. Through the feedback received by these sources, we are able to adjust to the needs of our clients and produce outstanding results.

Our nutrients are designed to be easy to use and effective for a variety of plants. We pride ourselves on providing high quality products that we believe in, at competitive prices. We hope you enjoy the fruits of our labor, and more importantly – the fruits of your own labor.

Plant Amp™ is a pure Calcium chelate, chelated utilizing low molecular weight organic acids. This chelation process provides improved calcium transport into the plant body, meaning the calcium is easily assimilated by plants and transferred into cell growth. Calcium is an integral part of cell wall development, and the overall ability of a plant to grow to it’s maximum potential. Calcium uptake by the plant’s roots and leaves promotes an amplification of hormonal signals between cells. Increased communication of these signals between plant cells promotes vigorous growth, and increases cell wall strength and permeability. Using Plant Amp™ will provide your plants with the necessary Calcium to optimize growth, enhance bountiful blossoms in ornamental plants, and promote heavier fruits and veggies.

** NOTE ** Plant Amp™ contains Organic Acids which cause a temporary low pH reading. Do not adjust pH up. The pH will rise naturally as the plant uptakes the chelated calcium in one or two days.

Uncle John’s Blend™ is a proprietary elixir developed originally in the hills of Humboldt County. Uncle John’s Blend™ is formulated in small batches to ensure quality and freshness. Uncle John’s Blend™ is developed to reduce stress and increase flower and fruit production. When using a high phosphorus bloom formula, a plant’s metabolism is boosted during flowering. Uncle John’s Blend™ helps to alleviate deficiencies that van occur from stress as a result of increased metabolic function. Uncle John’s Blend™ supplies potassium to plants delivered through a matrix of sugars (carbohydrates). The potassium acts as the primary electrolyte for energy, while the carbohydrates are precursor’s for complex aromatic asters and flavonoids. Enhanced production of flavonoids and aromatic compounds (esters) equate to more intense perfume in aromatic flowers, and richer flavors in fruits.

Mag Amped™ is a pure Magnesium chelate, which is easily assimilated by the plants. Magnesium is the primary element involved in chlorophyll production. Chlorophyll essentially equates to the source of a plant’s energy. Mag Amped™ amplifies the overall chlorophyll production in plants. Extra Magnesium helps plants produce chlorophyll in lower light situations (both in intensity and duration). Using Mag Amped™ in foggy, filtered, or low intensity light, as well as short duration light cycles, helps to enhance a plant’s chlorophyll and in turn, can boost the plant’s energy level.

As you can see they are very knowledgeable, and available for support. It’s really a valuable thing to use a nutrient company that backs up it’s data and guides it’s users to ultimate success. Cutting Edge definitely does exactly that. They also have an incredible nutrient calculator that takes the guess work out of feeding your plants. PGS offers the full line of Cutting Edge products at all our retail locations. 1-866-PGS-GROW.

Lets face it, we all need more time to live our lives, perfect our grow rooms, and develop our passions. Trying to manage every detail of your grow room can be more then time consuming, it can more like ALL consuming. If I had to call it a name, I would say it’s a full time job that yields an exact amount proportionate to what you put into it. That is to say, you reap what you sew. With that concept in mind, let me introduce you to CAP. CAP stands for Custom Automated Products and they are leading the way in environmental and electric automation. From temperature and humidity control, to complete 240 volt, 20 light controller trigger boxes, CAP has it all!
Their Fuzzy Logic CO2 controller is one of the finest CO2 PPM meters in the industry!

So what I am trying to say is, take a load off your mind and start to create the garden of your dreams with CAP products. Human error is one of the biggest problems we indoor gardeners face. Eliminate the chance of forgetting to turn a pump off or on, or letting your room get to dangerous heat levels. Optimize every detail of your indoor garden with the exact vision of perfection you desire to create. You deserve the best grow room possible and its within reach with PGS and CAP! Give us a call or come into any of our locations to get CAP products automating your room today. Don’t hesitate to call with any questions you might have. 1-866-PGS-GROW

As the indoor grow scene evolves and changes we must learn to grow into these changes to stay ahead of our game. One of the biggest innovations to come around, has been the invent of “Electronic” or “Digital” 600 watt and 1000 watt ballasts. These ballasts offer a more consistent output that equates into larger more consistent yields. The issue to be aware of is that these new ballasts have been known to “blow out” or “Burn out” most 600 watt and 1000 watt bulbs. The problem is that these bulbs are not designed to be used with an electronic ballast. Ushio Horticultural Grow Bulbs, are an exact remedy for this situation. Finally a company has taken on the burden of addressing this serious issue. In fact Ushio bulbs are the only known bulbs out at the moment that are perfect to use in an electronic ballast. There is nothing more annoying or hindering then going into your room to find a bulb(s) is not firing. Stop going through all this and get some Ushio bulbs today. They offer a wide range of different bulbs, all of which have performed beautifully for us in our preliminary testings.

HiLUX GRO™ Lamps

USHIO introduces “Hi-LUX GRO”, a new line of grow lamps to promote enhanced vegetative growth and flowering. The lamps are made to assure consistency in quality and optimized for high performance. Made in Germany by ISO9001 certified facility.

FEATURES:

• Super high output lamp technology
• Optimized spectrum, distribution pattern, lumen output and irradiance
• Reliable operation throughout the growth cycle
• Highest quality and consistent performance
• Engineered in ISO 9001 certified facility

The Ultimate Full Spectrum HID Grow Lamp – HYBRID MH and HPS

AMS-1000 / Dual Core 1000W Full Spectrum Bulb runs on S52 HPS Ballast

* Ultimate full spectrum grow lamp
* Super HPS and Super MH burner cores in a single body construction
* Covers entire photosynthesis spectrum
* Achieve maximum vegetative growth and maximum flower yield!

Now, it is possible for convenient and energy saving single lamp operation throughout your plant’s growth cycle. High output MH and high output HPS burner cores enclosed in a single lamp body to achieve an enhanced full photosynthesis spectrum from a SINGLE LIGHT SOURCE!

SUPER High Pressure Sodium with Optimized RED and BLUE Spectrum

AHS-400 Opti-Red
AHS-600 Opti-Red
AHS-1000 Opti-Red

• 400W, 600W, 1000W SUPER high output HPS with maximized output in both red and blue spectral range
• Runs on HPS Ballast
• SUPER HPS bulb with maximum output in both red and blue spectrum
• Optimized for maximum flower yield, and added blue spectrum for vegetative growth efficiency
• Outperforms standard HPS bulbs
• SUPER Metal Halide with Optimized BLUE and RED Spectrum
  

  AMH-400 Opti-Blue AMH-600 Opti-Blue AMH-1000 Opti-Blue 400W, 600W, 1000W SUPER high output MH with maximized output in both blue and red spectral range Conversion bulb to operate on ANSI coded HPS ballast SUPER MH bulb with maximum output in both blue and red spectrum Optimized for maximized branching and vegetative growth, and added red spectrum for flowering efficiency Outperforms standard MH bulbs

Do yourself and your plants a HUGE favor and grab some of these Ushio bulbs. Change out all your bulbs and run worry free now! Call us @ 1-866-pgs-grow or come in to any of our retail store locations and get your Ushio bulbs today.

There is no such thing as a stupid question! We get asked all the time “What is Hydroponics?” We think this article on hydroponics and it’s various techniques is perfect for “The Definitive Growers Blog”

The word “hydroponic” is derived from the Greek terms “hydro” = “water” and “ponos” = “labor”, or working water. Hydroponic gardening utilizes nutrients present in water solutions to attain growth. Herein lies the essence of hydroponic gardening: to provide the plant with the ideal water and nutrient ratios and optimum environmental conditions for growth to achieve maximum yields.

Think of a plant as its own architect and construction crew. The responsibility of the grower is simply to drop the building materials off at the worksite at the right time and in the right amounts. To take the analogy a step further, lets compare soil to hydroponics. In a soil-based scenario, the construction crew continually begins construction from existing job sites. There are leftover materials everywhere, making the possibility for contamination far greater than if they were permitted to start from scratch. Because of the nature of the leftover materials and the state in which the new materials exist on the site, the architect is forced to deal with unwanted materials, in unwanted quantities and the grower has no reliable or immediate way to determine what is there and what isn’t. In other words, the construction process is not streamlined. In a hydroponic scenario, the architect and construction crew begin design from a clean slate and the grower has a better and more immediate grasp on what is available and what is not available. This allows construction to focus on the task at hand, instead of being forced to sift through unwanted or unnecessary materials making the entire operation more efficient. The energy of the construction crew is therefore focused, resulting in a reorientation of energy from preventative and wasteful practice to quantifiable construction or growth. In short, hydroponics eliminates the barriers and stresses associated with plant growth and allows a much smoother and straightforward method of growing resulting in overall faster and higher yields.

Maintenance
Maintaining a hydroponic system is different from traditional soil-based growing. However, once the grower gets a crop under their belt and realizes the potential of hydroponic gardening the light bulb comes on. People ask us all the time, “why haven’t I been doing this all along?” The grower will also find that once the basics are mastered, a hydroponic garden is actually less maintenance than a soil garden- no weeds, no hand watering, fewer pests and diseases, higher yields. You can essentially take the whole “green thumb” argument and throw it out the window. A hydroponic garden waters itself!

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Hydroponic Techniques

Wick systems are passive systems, meaning it has no moving parts and the nutrient solution remains in one place. Plants are fed through capillary action from a wick drawing nutrient solution into the growing medium from the reservoir. The biggest draw back of this system is that plants that are large or use large amounts of water and nutrient may use up the nutrient solution faster than the wick(s) can supply it. In this case additional wicks may be used as a supplement, or another technique can be utilized.

Of all soilless methods, water culture, by definition, is true hydroponics. It is also the simplest active hydroponics system to set up on a small scale. In this system the plant roots are totally immersed in a nutrient solution. In a water culture system the roots grow directly into the reservoir as opposed to having a remote reservoir. The actual design of the system is limited only by the imagination of the builder. The system must provide means to (1) support the plant above the solution, (2) aerate the solution, and (3) prevent light from reaching the solution (to prevent the growth of algae).

Drip systems are probably the most widely used type of hydroponic system in the world. They are similar to drip irrigation systems popular with commercial farmers for their ability to conserve water through direct feeding. Operation is simple; a timer controls a submersed pump, which turns the pump on and off. Nutrient solution is dripped onto the base of each plant by a small drip line. In a recirculating drip system the excess nutrient solution that runs off is collected back in the reservoir for re-distribution.

The Ebb and Flow (or flood and drain) system works by temporarily flooding the grow tray with nutrient solution and then letting the solution drain back into the reservoir. This action is normally done with a submerged pump that is connected to a timer. The timer is set to come on several times a day, depending on the size and type of plants, temperature and humidity and the type of growing medium used. The drain cycle improves the oxygen contact with the plants roots. Using the right medium will ensure that moisture will be available for the roots so that they do not dry out between cycles. One of the main attractions of an Ebb and Flow system is the ability to containerize your plants and physically move them around. This aids in continuous production scenarios and enhances the control of a grower utilizing a veg (blue) and bloom (red) room scenario. The main disadvantage of this type of system is that unless your medium ensures moisture retention there is a vulnerability to power outages, since the only way for your plants to access food is through the action of the pump.

The Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) is a water-cultural technique in which plants are grown with their root systems contained in a plastic trough through which nutrient solution is continuously circulated. Work on NFT cropping was pioneered by Allen Cooper at the Glasshouse Crops research Institute in Littlehampton, England, in 1965. The term nutrient film technique was coined to stress that the depth of liquid flowing past the roots of the plants should be very shallow in order to ensure that sufficient oxygen would be supplied to the plant roots.

Feel free to experiment by building your own hydroponic system. As long as you have oxygenated nutrified water at the proper pH it doesn’t matter how you feed them. The possibilities are endless! Be sure to enclose your reservoir so as to prevent evaporation and control feeding times via timers in the case of a top-drip or ebb and flow setup. Email PG or do a simple web search to find simple plans for construction.

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Media

The chemical, physical, and structural properties of a substrate, or media, can have major effects on plant growth, root health, yields, and produce quality. It is important to select the proper media for the type of system and crop being grown. A seasoned grower develops knowledge of crop specific logistics through experience. It is a good idea for a beginner grower to experiment with several media types in their specific growing situation to determine which media suits the plants being grown, the system being used, and the specific ambient environment. Substrate Properties This section is aimed at educating the grower about the specific characteristics of

growing media. Plant roots require water, minerals, and oxygen to survive and obtain maximum growth and yields. In any particular substrate, these requirements are determined by the physical and chemical properties of the media, such as the water-holding capacity, cation exchange capacity (CEC), and pore size distribution, which determines the aeration of the media. Plant stability and oxygen availability are two physical variables that come into play when choosing a medium for growth.

Since all forms of media provide good general stability we will discuss the specific physical structure of media first. The physical structure of a substrate is made up of two major components: the solid particles and the pores between the particles, or the lattice. Of these two, the pore space between the solid particles is most important. Substrate porosity can be divided into three categories: large, small, and very small.

Large pores can be easily recognized in a substrate by saturating it and allowing it to drain. Pores that readily lose water by gravitational drainage are termed large pores and have a diameter larger than about 60 microns. These act as passages for the drainage of surplus water or nutrient, root growth, and pores for exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide.

Small pores (0.3-60 microns) act as a reservoir for moisture that can be utilized by the plant between nutrient applications. These pores retain water and nutrients for plant growth.

Very small pores (less than 0.2 microns) retain water when plants growing in the substrate have reached the permanent wilting point. They retain water at suction levels higher than can be exerted by the plants is unavailable for plant growth. However, they do ensure capillary rise of water by conduction and therefore play a role in the spread of water through the substrate.

A good hydroponic substrate contains the right balance between large and small pores to provide sufficient moisture between nutrient applications, a high degree of aeration and capillary action to evenly spread moisture throughout the root zone, and sufficient large pore space to allow root outgrowth into the substrate. General recommendations for suitable hydroponic substrates are at least 35-50 percent water-holding capacity by volume and 25-40 percent air space after drainage.

A substrate can affect the composition of the nutrient solution and assimilation of elements by plants depending upon the size of the granules and their structural, physical, and chemical properties. Soilless media are selected based on having low levels of natural nutrients to prevent any alteration or imbalance of the nutrient solution. The ability of certain media to retain nutrients against leaching losses is related to its cation exchange capacity, or CEC. The CEC is the ability of the media to attract and hold various cations such as potassium, calcium, magnesium, and iron, for use by the plant’s roots. These positively charged ions are attracted to the negatively charged media particles and therefore aren’t leached as quickly from the media. A media with a high CEC will require less frequent applications of nutrients than a media with a low CEC. Zeolite is an example of a media with high CEC.

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Coconut Fiber

Perhaps the most important aspects of coir fiber as a growing medium are lack of initial nutrients and its ability to act as a pH buffer. Coir’s negligible initial nutrient composition and slightly acidic pH (pH 5.8-6.5) is ideal for plant growth and hydroponic use because it will not affect the carefully controlled nutrient and pH levels of the nutrient solution.
Coir fiber has the ability to absorb and retain large quantities of water and nutrient for plant use (typically between 80-88 percent) between irrigations. Air-filled porosity values of 23-29 percent have been measured, which is within the recommended range for a container mix but a little on the low side when compared to other free-draining media, such as expanded clay or perlite. Coir also resists decomposition, making it more desirable than other substrates, such as peat or sawdust, which have a tendency to break down and lose their free-draining structures resulting in root suffocation and rot.

Expanded Clay Expanded clay- also called hydroton, or “growrocks”- has a physical structure that is porous, allowing good entry of both water and air. The pebbles or balls can range in size grades from 1-18 millimeters. All types of expanded clay are sterile, inert, and well suited to many hydroponic systems due to its free-draining nature and attractive appearance. However, expanded clay does not hold a great deal of moisture between nutrient applications and salt accumulation and drying out can be common problems in improperly managed systems.

Expanded clay is particularly prone to salt buildup and crusting on crops in drain-to-waste and flood-and-drain systems. This can often be seen on the surface of the clay particles and around the plant stem. Since salt buildup can result in plant decline and slow growth, flushing expanded clay on a regular basis with either half-strength nutrient solution or one of the many flushing solutions available is good practice.

Expanded clay has the advantage of being reusable for many years, provided it is cleaned and sterilized between crops to kill any pathogens that may be present inside the structure of the clay particles. Heat, steam, boiling water, hydrogen peroxide, or chlorine can all be used to safely sterilize expanded clay between crops.

Vermiculite

Vermiculite is a porous, spongelike, sterile media. It is a natural mineral, which expands with the application of heat. It is formed by hydration of certain basaltic minerals. It’s lightweight and has a high water absorption capacity- holding up to five times its weight in water. It also has a relatively high cation exchange capacity, holding nutrients in reserve and later releasing them. Care needs to be taken in some systems when using vermiculite as a stand-alone since it is prone to over saturation when nutrients are applied frequently, often resulting in root rot.

Perlite

Perlite is a siliceous, sterile, spongelike, amorphous glass mineral of volcanic origin. When it reaches temperatures of 850-900C, perlite softens (since it is a glass) and water trapped in the structure escapes and this causes the expansion of the material at 7-15 times its original volume. The expanded material is a brilliant white, due to the reflectivity of the trapped bubbles. It is ideal for soilless culture as a stand-alone and as an additive to a soil or media that tends to get waterlogged. Perlite is a free-draining media that does not have the high water-retentive properties of many other substrates. It is essentially neutral with a pH of 6-7 but without any buffering capacity and, unlike vermiculite, doesn’t have any cation exchange capacity. While perlite does not decay, the particle size does become smaller through fracturing as it’s handled. Perlite is often mixed at a ratio of 1:1 with vermiculite, which improves the moisture-holding and cation exchange capacity of the media while still remaining free draining.

Rockwool

Rockwool is probably the most widely used substrate in soilless growing worldwide. It is popular with commercial and hobbyist growers since it is sterile, lightweight (when dry), convenient, and has excellent physical and chemical properties. It has a high water-holding capacity (80 percent), and good aeration (17 percent air holding capacity), but does not have cation exchange or buffering capacities.

One significant chemical attribute of rockwool is its pH. Because its pH is alkaline (above 7), it must be soaked in water or diluted nutrient solution before use. There are also “rockwool soaks” or conditioning solutions available as a presoak before planting.

Rockwool is nontoxic but can be an irritant to the skin or via inhalation when dry, so care should be taken when handling. There is also an increasing concern over the problem of disposal once its useful growing life is over. Finding uses for spent rockwool has been the focus of some research, but most ends up in a landfill. Because it does not break down and decompose in the soil, significant buildup can be a liability.

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Hydroponic Fertilization
Nutrients are one of the basics of any hydroponic system. In order for a fertilizer to be incorporated into a hydroponic system it must be soluble in water. If not, the plant cannot access it. The beauty of hydroponics is that the grower has complete control over the implementation of fertilizer, regarding type and concentration. They also have the ability to immediately monitor and maintain a relative consistency, provided a nutrient meter is available. Because of this, it is important for the grower to know what you are supplying plants and what can go wrong. With any nutrient solution there are three factors to keep in mind. First, the composition of your nutrient – does it contain all of the elements required for plant growth in the correct ratios? For the most part, this is taken care of with pre-formulated commercial nutrient lines. Check your labels! Secondly, with your balanced and complete nutrient solution, what strength (EC or ppm) should it be running at for your particular crop, stage of growth, and type of hydroponic system and how do we measure it? And finally, what are the differences regarding “synthetic” and “organic-based” hydroponic fertilizers?

The Nutrient Solution – Composition
As mentioned above, there are many ‘pre-mixed’ nutrient solutions available that simply need to be diluted or dissolved in water before use. Often, these pre-made nutrients come in 1, 2, 3, or even more “parts” so the grower can change the ratio of the mineral elements to allow for either vegetative or fruiting and flowering growth, or for different crops. There are many excellent brands of these pre-mixed nutrients on the market, however, many growers have come across major problems when they try to use some of the ‘indoor plant food’ or other nutrients that have been designed for plants growing in soil or a pre fertilized potting mix. Often these types of products are not suitable for hydroponics because they are not designed to be a “complete plant food” or they are not water-soluble. For example, Nitrogen in the form of urea is not immediately available to a plant in hydroponics because urea is not soluble in water. For this reason Nitrogen must be delivered in its Nitrate form in order to be utilized in hydroponics. It is always preferable to buy a nutrient mix that is sold especially for hydroponic use, and is a “complete” plant food. To be “complete” a hydroponic nutrient needs to have the essential elements for plant growth, these are:

Nitrogen (N), Potassium (K), Phosphorous (P), Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), Sulphur (S), Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn), Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), Molydenum (Mo), Boron (B), Chlorine (Cl)

{Hydrogen(H),Oxygen(O),and Carbon(C)——> come from air(CO2) and water(H2O)}

Solution Strength – Use and Measurement
Provided the nutrient you are using is complete and balanced, the concentration or strength of the solution has a major effect on plant growth and development. This is why it is essential to measure your solution concentration. Running the correct ppm or EC for your particular crop and system is important. The soil is an “everybody’s got to grow” environment. You can grow a head of lettuce next to a tomato plant and the respective plants take what they need from the general soil. You can imagine in this scenario, that the tomato must develop a much more extensive root system relative to the lettuce, because the tomato requires a higher level of fertilization to reach maturity and produce fruit. In a hydroponic scenario a grower would not use the same concentration of nutrient solution (ideally) to grow a head of lettuce and a tomato plant. You would top out the nutrient solution for the lettuce around 600 ppm and the tomato upwards of 1500-2000 ppm. If the lettuce were in the presence of the tomato concentration it would shrivel up and burn due to water stress. With the ability to control the level of fertilization in a hydroponic system the level of fertilization

can be manipulated to maintain the ideal concentration for respective plants. Further, the tomato plant growing in a 2000 ppm nutrient solution no longer has to develop the extensive root system it did in the general soil environment, effectively reorienting the energy of the plant into the upwards and more beneficial growth. Hence, higher yields.

It is sufficient to use nutrients based on manufacturers labeling. However, these guidelines are very general in nature. As we discussed above, the threshold for respective plants can vary greatly from plant to plant, even within genetic strains of the same plant. A nutrient meter, which relays the relative ppm, or EC is ideal for determining nutrient concentration. By pushing the plant during growth and noting the nutrient level at their respective threshold the grower gains valuable knowledge towards idealizing their growing experience.

Synthetic and Organic Based Nutrients
There are two kinds of formulations for hydroponic nutrients – synthetic (or refined mineral, or salt-based) and organic based. A synthetic nutrient is in the form of soluble salts formulated by humans for plant consumption. Similar to the way table salt (NaCl) disassociates in water to form Na+ (cation) and Cl- (anion), the pre-formulated fertilizer salts disassociate into the correct spectrum concentrations of necessary ion components needed for plant growth.

100% Organic fertilizer components are dependent upon organisms in the soil to convert the “organic” materials into an inorganic useable form for plants. Because of the non-soluble of many natural sources of nutrition, organic based hydroponic nutrients have 20-30% fertilizer salts with the rest being soluble “organic” components, such as guanos, plant extracts, worm castings, potash, kelps, etc. Because all of the components are not similar in structure and properties they disassociate at different rates in the “universal solvent” creating a slight pH fluctuation. This is the major difference between synthetic and organic based nutrients, but is easily overcome with patience and practice.

Having said this, there is absolutely no difference in the final ion product with respect to synthetic nutrients and organic based nutrients. An ion is an ion. It is simply a different way of delivering the food to the plant. As has been stated, plants “eat” ions in an inorganic form in the end anyway. In other words, plants do not eat guano ions, or kelp ions; they eat the inorganic constituents of these materials after they have been broken down or dissolved in water. A 100% hydroponic nutrient has not been formulated because in nature microorganisms and specific processes break down organic compounds to make them available to plants (i.e. “slow release” fertilizers). Since many organic materials are not soluble in water, they cannot be utilized in a hydroponic system, yet. There is great potential in the ability of scientists to locate unique plant extracts and formulations conducive to this idea. There is currently much energy being devoted to the technology.

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Dissolved Oxygen (DO)

A hydroponic nutrient solution is not just a mix of fertilizer salts and water. There are a number of organisms and compounds commonly found in our hydro systems that we need to be aware of. One of the most important of these is dissolved oxygen (DO), which is vital for the health and strength of the root system as well as being necessary for nutrient uptake. Plants breath just like all organisms via respiration. We are used to thinking that plants produce oxygen from CO2, which is true, but it just happens the overall amount of oxygen used is dwarfed by the amount produced by photosynthesis. Oxygen is an essential plant nutrient – plant root systems require oxygen for aerobic respiration, an essential plant process that releases energy for root growth and nutrient uptake. In many water-based hydroponic systems,the oxygen supplied for

plant root uptake is provided mostly as dissolved oxygen (DO) in the nutrient solution as well as a zone of aeration provided by a gap from the surface to the reservoir water level.

Oxygen requirements for plants in flower tend to be more demanding in comparison to vegetative states. This is due to the size of the root system, temperature, and nutrient uptake rates, not the specific stage of growth.

Injury from low (or no) oxygen in the root zone can take several forms and these will differ in severity between plant types. Often the first sign of inadequate oxygen supply to the roots is wilting of the plant under warm conditions and high light levels. Insufficient oxygen reduces the permeability of the roots to water and there will be an accumulation of toxins, so that both water and minerals are not absorbed in sufficient amounts to support plant growth.

While it is possible to measure the levels of dissolved oxygen in a hydroponic nutrient solution, it is not carried out as often as EC/ppm or pH monitoring due to the cost of accurate DO meters. However, if an effective method of aeration is continually being used, and solution temperatures are not reaching excessively high levels, then good levels of oxygenation can be achieved without trouble.

Most growers are familiar with the need to have some sort of aeration in their nutrient solution due to waters high surface tension – whether they are in a recirculating water-based or media-based system. However, the effect of temperature of the solution on the DO levels and on root respiration rates also needs to be taken into account. As the temperature of your nutrient solution increases, the ability of that solution to hold DO decreases. For example, the oxygen content of a fully aerated solution at 50 F (10 C) is about 13 ppm, but as the solution warms up to 68 F (20 C) the ability of the liquid to ‘hold’ oxygen drops to 9-10 ppm. By the time the solution has reached 86 F (30 C) it is only 7 ppm. While this may not seem like a huge drop in the amount of DO, we have to remember that as the temperature of the root system warms, the rate of respiration of the root tissue also increases and more oxygen is required by the plant. For example, the respiration rate of the roots will double for each 10 C rise in temperature up to 86 F (30 C). So the situation can develop where the solution temperature increases from 68-86 F (20-30 C) during the day, with a mature crop, then the requirement for oxygen will double while the oxygen carrying capacity of the solution will drop by 25%. This means that the DO in solution will be much more rapidly depleted and then plants can suffer from oxygen starvation (root rot) for a period of time.

Perhaps one of the commonest problems in hydropnic systems is the Pythium pathogen. What many growers do not realize is that Pythium, being an “opportunist” fungi, often takes advantage of plants which have been stressed by a combination of high temperatures and oxygen starvation in the root zone. Pythium is usually described as a “secondary infection” meaning that the Pythium spores that are actually common in just about all hydroponic systems, don’t actually attack the plant until it has been damaged in some way. Pythium is everywhere, so the best defense is a healthy plant. There are many products available that can help in your battle with root disease. Refer to the “roots” discussion in the Plant Nutrition section of this site for more info.

The variables to remember in regard to nutrient solutions are that aeration is vital to maintain the DO levels, temperatures should be kept within an optimum range, and a healthy plant is the best measure of protection against a disease outbreak.

pH
The pH scale is a way to measure the Acid or Basic (alkaline) quantities in water. The official definition of pH is: a unit of measure that describes the degree of acidity or alkalinity of a liquid solution. It is measured on a scale of 0 to 14. Acids are in a range from 0 to 7, with lower numbers being a stronger acid. Alkaline is in the range from 7 to 14, with the higher numbers being a stronger base. The term pH is derived from “p”, the mathematical symbol of the negative logarithm, and “H”, the elemental symbol for Hydrogen. The technical definition of pH is the negative logarithm of the Hydrogen ion activity {pH = -log[H+]}. pH expresses the degree of activity of an acid or base in terms of hydrogen ion activity. When substances with more hydrogen ions are added the pH gets more acidic, thus having more of a (+) positive charge. Similarly, when substances with more hydroxide ions are added the pH gets more alkaline, thus having more of a (-) negative charge. These charges are present everywhere in your solution and form the framework of nutrient uptake. The plant takes care of the hard part; all you have to do is supply it with the right materials. The charges surround the roots and exchange positive and negative charges allowing for absorption of nutrients into the roots via active transport. For this reason the pH must be monitored during the entire growth cycle of the plants to maintain the maximum healthy uptake of nutrients. The pH of the nutrient solution will affect how well each element can pass through the root cell wall and nourish the plant. However, once you have properly calibrated your fertilizer concentrations and the pH of that solution you can generally assume it will stay steady barring any unforeseen root disease. Having said that, it is always a good idea to monitor your system too much than too little.

A pH of 7 is considered to be neutral. Any substance between 3.0 and 10.0 can be handled fairly safe, from the standpoint that they will not harm exposed skin. Any chemical with a pH lower than 3.0 or higher than 10.0 should be handled with care.

When growing soilless it is very important to control the pH of the water. The recommended pH range for plants is 5.8 to 6.5, with 6.0 to 6.5 being ideal for vegetative growth. A slightly lower range, 5.8 to 6.2, is ideal for fruiting and flowering. However, it is much more important to be in the ballpark rather than on the decimal point in regards to pH. This idea will become second nature to the experienced grower. PH kits and drops and pH pens are available for maintenance. Adding pH UP or pH DOWN solutions to raise or lower your solution, respectively, will alter the pH of the solution.

The nutrient used in soilless gardening, which is added to the water to promote growth, can also affect the pH. When adjusting the pH of your solution, it is a good idea to add the nutrient first then measure the pH.

TDS, PPM, or EC?
The two dominant forms of determining fertilizer concentration in a hydroponic system are Electrical Conductivity (EC) and Total Dissolved Solids (TDS). TDS is referred to as Parts Per Million (PPM), which many may be familiar with. In fact, TDS and PPM are actually conversions of EC.

Nutrients take the form of ions in solution. The same way NaCl table salt disassociates into Na+ and Cl- ions when dissolved in water, your nutrient solution breaks up into ions that represent the entire spectrum of minerals needed for plant growth. EC is determined by sending an electric pulse through your nutrient solution with a nutrient meter. The rate at which the pulse reaches its destination is relayed into the resulting EC. So a nutrient solution containing more nutrient (or ions) results in a higher EC because there are more ions there to carry the charge. An EC of 1is equal to different PPM readings depending on which conversion factor is used. Herein lies the problem with TDS and PPM. The so-called 442 conversion results in 700 PPM for every 1 EC. Conversely, the NaCl conversion is approximately 500 PPM per 1 EC. This situation is not dissimilar to the differences and confusion caused by the American system of measurement and the Metric system. The discontinuity between these forms of measurement has caused wasted energy and student frustration since their inventions. Similarly, by not having a universal standard for nutrient concentrations the possibility of universal recognition must wait on human conversion. The most reliable way to ensure your number means what it means is to utilize EC.

Having said all of this, in the end it is the plant that will tell you what it wants. The bottom line is, be consistent with your calibration. By ensuring that, at least, you calibrate to the same place every time you can develop knowledge of what number your plants desire. Treat your number as a benchmark for pushing your plants. Nutrient meters are not vital to a hydroponic growing operation, but represent an additional level of knowledge and control and can be extremely beneficial in acquiring specific understanding of plant responses to mineral and amendment additions.

Original article here

One of the things people come in and ask us the most about is propagation. “How do I root cuttings?” or “What grow medium do you recommend for seedlings and cuttings?” There are several options. The most preferred method for long time, experienced growers is to use Oasis Root Cubes. I personally have used them for over 15 years and have enjoyed a 97-99 percent success rate the entire time. What I really like the most about this product, is that you don’t need to go through any pre soaking like you do for rockwool cubes. Right out of the box, into a tray, wet with water, take your cuttings, and 5-10 days later, you will have roots. Of course there are several rooting agents available to help facilitate the cloning process. We will have a more detailed blog post at a later date, with step by step instructions on how to take cuttings with Oasis cubes.

OASIS® Root Cubes are rigid, open-celled, water-absorbing foams, specifically designed for optimal callus and rapid root formation. Outstanding performance is due, in part, to the unique cell structure, which closely resembles the cellular structure of the plant itself. The composition of the foam anchors the plant and provides capillary action for feeding water to inserted cuttings. These mediums offer the propagator many advantages.

Oasis Growing Media is a low density, high drainage foam with characteristics specifically developed for hydroponics seed germination and vegetative propagation of vegetables, herbs, flowers and foliage crops. These characteristics allow for an optimal balance of oxygen and water, even when saturated with water.

Oasis Rootcubes® Growing Medium offers an excellent starting environment for plant cuttings. Rootcubes® are sold in sheets that fit into industry standard 1020 trays. The engineered balance of air and water ratio makes Rootcubes® an especially good, economical propagation medium for a wide variety of plants and woody ornamental’s.

The innovative formula of this medium eliminates the necessity of leaching before use and assures proper drainage and water holding to achieve optimum air/water balance.

We have tons of Oasis in stock at all of our stores and online soon. 1-866-PGS-GROW

We have been getting allot of phone calls and comments, asking us “what is this blog?” I’m glad you asked……… This blog is Professional Gardening Systems way of giving back to the grow community by informing growers of all levels about new products, techniques, and ideas that are important in this ever changing grow culture. More then a “FAQ” section of a website, these posts are designed to answer allot of the important questions we get asked all day in our retail stores about various products. Now you can visit and subscribe to our blog and get daily articles abouts products, grow tips, music and more….. Check out our links on the right, there are some serious websites there, with ground breaking information on horticulture from trusted sources, like Cornell University. We have so many amazing things coming soon, including detailed tutorials, video and audio podcasts, and private video consultations. Our mission is to help as many growers as we can achieve the kind of success we want for ourselves. We are always excited to take your calls, comments and questions about any topics posted here. 1-866-PGS-GROW

Getting air into and out of your grow room is one of the most important factors in a successful garden. Without proper airflow your plants will suffer. Intake and outtake need to be addressed with equal priority. One of the best methods of drawing air from outside, and venting the hot air from inside, is a Vortex inline fan. Vortex fans are one of the best choices when it comes to efficiently moving air around. These fans have an air of quality that you can feel right when you open the box. You can tell that they took the time to make sure every detail is perfect. One of the most popular applications for Vortex fans is to couple them with a can filter. Vortex fans fit perfectly on can filters, with and without flanges, and are beautifully quiet when operating on full speed. If you need to reduce airborne pathogen’s from your grow room, or you have a nuisance odor lingering in a stale space, do yourself and your grow room (and your neighbors) a huge favor and get a Vortex fan with a Can Filter installed today. Not only will you be happier with your grow environment, but your plants will respond too with improved growth and vigor.

When these inline duct blowers were conceived, reliability and efficiency were the main goal. Its’ more powerful motor combined with its’ aerodynamically designed shape make Vortex Powerfan the performance leader in its’ category.
These high performance inline blowers feature superior steel construction with powder coated baked paint and convenient North-American sizes from 4 to 12 inches. Speed controllable and balanced motors with permanently lubricated ball bearings ensure vibration-free operation.

Proudly made in Canada by Atmosphere, the Vortex Powerfan is also the first industrial inline duct fan that comes with a power cord, ready to plug in, installed by the manufacturer.

Never seen in the ventilation industry, these blowers feature a 10 year warranty. The bottom line: Vortex Powerfan is all about performance, reliability, and quality all wrapped up into one package to ensure peace of mind for years.

We whole heartily suggest Vortex industrial inline duct fans for your grow room applications. Call us to get more info and/or advice 1-866-PGS-GROW

The Magnum XXXL 8″ Air-Cooled Reflector is a big one. Its actually the largest in the industry. The Magnum XXXL has been designed to be very aerodynamic. Its got a unique socket holder that allows maximum air flow. On many hoods the socket blocks the hole causing your fan to work harder and move less air. If your air cooling large grow lamps the Magnum XXXL 8 inch is for you.

The amount of light this reflector puts out is tremendous! If you want to utterly fill your grow space with an amazing amount of light, then you will love this hood!

Specifications:

* Complete with glass, built-in socket & 15 ft. lamp cord
* Completely sealed design – gasketed glass seal
* 95% reflective German aluminum interior
* Powder-coated galvanized steel body
* Aerodynamic junction box improves airflow & cooling
* Built-in 8″ fittings

Call 1-866-PGS-GROW today for more info or to order your Magnum XXXL today.

Are you ready for the next level in indoor gardening? Do you want to grow the best and biggest plants possible? Do you insist on organic gardening? If you answered yes to these questions, then your going to be stoked on this next post. We at PGS want to educate everyone we can on the incredible results acheived with BOUNTEA. Bountea is a compost tea brewing system, made by the Winner of 9 World Records for Giant Vegetables, 18 State Records and over 400 awards for Quality Vegetables. John Evans is a pioneer in organic gardening. His Bountea system has changed the lives of many long time growers.

The Bountea Compost Tea System creates the most effective compost tea available. It has proven World Record Results in healthy, productive plant growth. Bountea Compost Tea is made by bubbling air through a mixture of water, Living Alaska Humisoil and a specially developed Bioactivator. This produces a super-concentrated solution of billions of vigorous beneficial microbes and a spectrum of essential trace elements to make your soil healthy.

While Bountea Compost Tea is the Heart of the Bountea System, Marine Mineral Magic – M3 is the nutrient booster. Marine Mineral Magic – M3 is a slow-release organic nutrient that supplies the additional nourishment, minerals, and trace elements required for optimum plant growth. Because the Bountea Compost Tea System is so efficient, M3 only needs to be added every second brewing.

Root Web is the transportation network of the nutrient system. Root Web is a soluble blend of natural soil fungi spores (including mycorrhizae) that create a symbiotic connection with plant roots. Root Web helps the root systems transport nutrients over long distances and helps protect plants from fungal disease. Root Web only needs to be added to the Bountea Compost Tea once a year at the beginning of the season.

If you have any questions about this amazing product, please call us today and get started brewing tea today and have HUGE plants tomorrow! We have the entire product line in stock and availible at all three locations – 1-866-PGS-GROW

Still growing with 120v outlets? Do you want to upgrade your efficiency and safety, while saving a ton on your next electric bill? Of Course you do, and we can help you achieve this today. By running your grow system on 240v outlets you are saving a huge wad of cash every month. Here is how you can understand why. Lets take your average 1000watt light ballast. On a 120v outlet, a 1000 watt ballast will draw 9.5 amps of electricity. The same 1000 watt ballast, running on a 240v outlet draws 4.8 amps of electricity. So, in other words, on a 240v line, you can run twice the amount of lights you are currently using for the same price, or you can cut you bill in half. Either way, this is a win win situation for indoor growers. Don’t wait any longer, with a 30amp timer box from PGS, you can use your clothes dryer plug, already in place and start saving now. We have helped countless numbers of growers install this money saving system and everyone who has converted from 120v is so happy, they don’t understand why they spent so many years paying double what they could be paying……

	Features POWER CORD: 1 – 30 Amp Dryer Cord BREAKERS: 1 – 20 Amp Breaker 240 volt 1 – 10 Amp Breaker 120 volt RECEPTACLES: 4 – 240 volt Receptacles (supplies up to 4 – 1000 watt light systems) 2 – 120 volt Receptacles (supplies accessories such as fans or light movers) DIGITAL TIMER: 7-Day Digital Timer 42 Weekly ON/OFF Settings 6 Daily ON/OFF Settings Manual Override Battery Back-up

If you grow in a warm climate indoors, a cool sun XL grow light reflector well help you lower the temperatures in your room. With an 8 inch vent on both sides, you can easily vent the heat from your lights, safely and efficiently out of your room.

A good choice for warmer climates, the Cool Sun XL is a rugged reflector with sturdy steel housing and white powder coat finish to help prevent rust. The interior has 95% reflective German aluminum for optimum light reflectivity and diffusion.

The Sun System Cool Sun XL reflector from Sunlight Supply has built-in 8 inch fittings for unrestricted air cooling. It’s sealed design makes it airtight to prevent CO2 loss in your grow room. Includes tempered glass lens – simply add ducting and fan to complete inline venting to avoid excess heat buildup in your growroom.

Our tests resulted in the Cool Sun XL to be one of the best quality, coolest running reflectors made. The light distribution is excellent!

The Cool Sun XL reflector includes pre-wired socket assembly and cord, plus sturdy wire hangers for easy installation.

Dimensions: 25.5″ Long x 23.25″ Wide x 9.25″ High
Weight: 30 lbs

Cool Sun XL complete system includes:

Reflector
Tempered Glass Lens
Sunlight Supply socket assembly w/15′ power cord
Instructions
Hangers

5-year manufacturer warranty on reflector.
5-year rebuild or replace warranty on Galaxy ballast.
Made in USA.

Call with any questions or come in to any of our retail locations and get your own Cool Sun XL reflector today!

1-866-PGS-GROW

Pests in your garden can seriously hinder what would be a normally healthy garden. Chemical solutions are a risky choice when it comes to growing food or other plants that get ingested by humans or animals. Here at PGS we have addressed this issue by supporting and selling an amazing, organic pest solution called Green Light Neem.

I have children and dogs that absolutely love to play in my yard. I also have ants and other assorted insects that love it just as much. Oh yeah, and this weather in Sonoma makes a wonderful environment for all sorts of mildew and assorted fungal diseases that attack my lawn and plants.

The problem is most of the controls for both these problems are not only very toxic for my family and pets, but also the environment. We strongly recommended Green Light Neem.

What is it?

Neem is an all natural compound made from the oils of the Neem tree. This tree mostly grows in India and is used there for everything from shampoo to insecticide. The Neem Oil made by Green Light has also been certified an organic material by the Organic Material Review Institue (OMRI).

From what we have read from a report from Cornell University, Neem Oil does not pose a significant threat to human health, although it can cause skin irritation in some individuals. There are warnings on the label about making sure to wash your hands if exposed to it and not to drink the stuff.

The Neem Oil in this container is in concentrated form and has to be mixed with water before using. Once mixed, it can be applied to the lawn, roses, ant beds, or any other areas where you may have an insect problem. Certain tropical plants like Hibiscus are sensitive to other plant oils and it is not recommended for use on these as it can burn the leaves. I should also note that Neem is safe enough to use indoors on houseplants and outside or vegetable plants and fruit trees.

Neem has been shown to be an effective treatment for over 200 insects, to include aphids, ants, whiteflies, and thrips. If you are interested in its effectiveness on insects I suggest reading the report at:

http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/mfs/08neem.php

Neem has also been shown as an effective treatment for fungal diseases such as powdery mildew, blackspot, and rust.

Does it work?

We have had great luck with the use of this product. Our rose bushes in particular have really responded well to its use. Not only are there no insects plaguing them, but has done a great job fighting the black spot problem we had on their leaves. This product is also toxic when it comes in direct contact with honeybees so we suggest not spraying while they are active.

We have also applied this directly to ant beds and have had good results. This is not going to kill them as quickly as the chemical pesticides out there, but we have had luck with it. There are times when we have had to apply it twice to ant beds before getting rid of them, but it does seem to work.

Our Opinion

Neem will probably be as effective as many of the chemical products out there. It does kill insects, and at the same time protects the lawn and plants from mildew and fungal diseases. The best part is it does both of these things and is safe to use in your yard. You do not have to worry about the long term effect this is going to have on your children or your pets. You can also feel somewhat better knowing you are not hurting the environment either.

We also recommend applying this in the evening. Water and oil on leaves during the day can burn the plant and this also allows the oil to stay on the leaves longer before it evaporates.

We are not going to judge anyone that chooses to use the chemical or synthetic route when it comes to controlling pests in their gardens. Many times the chemical route seems to be more effective, but hurts you, your family, and the plants in the long run. With a dedicated resolve to use just Green Light Neem to control your garden pests, you will reap the benefits of a long term organic pest solution. This includes healthier plants, safer work environments and peace of mind when it comes to you and your families health. Call us today to get more information on pest control. 1-866-PGS-GROW.

Here at PGS, we are constantly looking for the best gardening equipment available for our customers. T5 Fluorescent grow lights are hands down the very best vegetative light you can possibly provide for your plants! If you are still using traditional Fluorescent bulbs, you are missing out on a bounty of increased growth, and energy savings.

The new line of Tek T5 Fluorescent Lights is the latest addition to modern line of grow lights. T5 Tek Lights can be used for propagation or full term lighting in grow light applications. Plant Grow T5 Lighting bulbs have a very low heat factor that allows the Tek T5 Fluorescent grow lights fixtures to be hung very close to the plant canopy which raises light levels. Tek T5 Fluorescent grow lights include everything you need: chrome wire hangers, back lit on/off switch, your choice of T5 bulbs and 8ft. grounded power cord.
Tek 5 Fluorescent lights have a low profile sleek, contemporary design with black powder coat. The exclusive 9-bend reflector is made of 95% German reflective aluminum that increases output by over 300%. Tek lights include a major brand solid state electronic ballast does not emit heat, noise or vibration. The Plant Grow T5 Lighting ballasts are uniquely placed on the outside edge of the fixture, not above the lamps.
Tek Lights come in 4ft. with 2, 4, 6 or 8 bulbs. All Tek Lights include your choice of T5 bulbs. Grow light models choose from either 3000K for budding & flowering or 6500K for plant growth or a combination of both.

We don’t recomend the use of T5s for flowering, but the 6500K bulbs perform tremendously! If you have any questions about T5 grow lights, please give us a call today. 1-866-pgs-grow.

Galaxy and Infinity electronic ballasts feature the exclusive Smart Volt™ feature; Operates on both 120 & 240 volt power. Simply unplug one cord and plug in the other. 8-foot 120 volt power cord included. Purchase 240 volt cord separately when usinf 240V input voltage. Galaxy ballasts can ignite both HPS & MH lamps, very quiet operation, rubber feet reduce noise and vibration, short circuit protection, with constant wattage output—no lamp flickering. Galaxy ballasts come wired with a female receptacle for use with all Sunlight reflectors. Optional adaptor available for use with Hydrofarm reflectors. 5 Year Warranty on Galaxy ballasts.

Galaxy 1000W 120/240V Electronic Grow Light Ballast

• Can ignite both 1000W HPS lamps & 1000W Metal Halide clamps
• Operates on 120V or 240V; 120V cord included. Order optional 240V smart cord for 240V applications
• Drives lamp to peak performance
• Saves energy! Uses 5-12% less energy than magnetic H.I.D. (depending on lamp specification)
• Extremely efficient – 99.9% power factor
• Soft starting – increases lamp life & reduces lumen depreciation
• Rubber feet reduce noise and vibration
• Built-in short circuit protection
• Constant wattage output—no lamp flickering
• 3 Year full and 2-year prorated warranty
• Comes wired with our standard female lamp cord receptacle that accepts Sunlights proprietary, patented male lamp cord making these units compatible with all Sun System® reflectors.
• Purchase lamp cord with socket assembly separately.

Lets talk about plant food for a second. In this modern, high technology world we live in, there are strides being made in every sector across the board. Plant food is no exception! Nutrient companies have learned how to create their own high performance proprietary chemical delivery systems. Everyone has a preferred company they have grown to trust with their gardens. House and Garden is one of the best premier nutrient companies to come around in years if not ever!

We at Pro Gardening Systems went looking for the very best commercial nutrient line to distribute. We searched both far and wide and are now proud to exclusively offer the most talked about product line on the planet. House & Garden / Van de Zwaan. This is the most sought after nutrient in Europe, and now we are making it available to all of Sonoma County.

Why switch basic fertilizer when your current products meet all of your basic requirements? Pro Gardening Systems would like to challenge you to test our unique combination of House & Garden’s BudXL package with Roots Excelurator and Shooting Powder. We are sure you’ll be amazed at the explosive growth and blooms. The proof of the pudding is in the tasting. Don’t hesitate to contact Pro Gardening Systems for some great advice on how to make the change to House and Garden.

House and Garden will change the way you think about nutrients. Choose a pair of base nutrients depending on the medium you are growing in:

* Aarde A&B for Soil containers,
* Cocos A&B for mixes of more than 40% Coco Coir,
* Aqua Flakes A&B for recirculating hydroponic or aeroponic systems,
* Hydro A&B for drain-to-waste, or
* 1-Component Aarde for Soil that is enriched with lime.
* Bio 1-Component Organic base nutrient for soil gardens enriched with lime.

Each base nutrient is specifically formulated for the different conditions that exist in growing mediums to ensure that medium and nutrients are used to their full advantage.

Magic Green really gives your plants more pep. It ensures extra vitality of your plants and ensures that the plants get all they need for a successful flowering period. Foliar spray only for rooted cuttings, mothers, and vegetative growth and you’ll learn why this product is called “Magic” green.

Roots Excelurator is the best and most powerful root stimulator available in today’s market. Using only 1.1ml per gallon, Roots Excelurator will provide explosive root growth and rid the plant of brown roots. Roots Excelurator is packaged in an aluminum canister to preserve organic ingredients and beneficial organisms.

Drip Clean is unparalleled in the market, not letting any salts build up in any medium or solution. Drip Clean acts like a magnet, removing dirt particles at every nutrient feeding so that piping and medium remain clean. This gives your nutrient program a clean slate to work on. Furthermore, Drip Clean gives plants a boost, improving their greenness and vitality.

Multi Zyme is the most concentrated of all the enzyme products on the market at only 3.7ml per gallon. The enzymes convert the nutrient into ready to use bits making it easy to assimilate by the plant. This means that Multi Zyme can be added to and improve any existing nutrient formula.

Top Booster is the only Potassium/Phosphorus nutrient designed to be used only once in the flowering cycle for three to four days. Top Booster contains all the PK of the competition, with extra eddha-Fe (iron) to ensure perfect leaf coloring.

Bud-XL has the unique ability to extract sugars from the leaf of the plant and transfer them to the fruit. The fruit is thus made sweeter and its taste improved. Bud-XL also increases the size and robustness of the flower, resulting in an increases in fruit production and a greater turnover.

Shooting Powder is the most explosive bloom stimulator on the market. Extensively researched and tested, Shooting Powder gives you results you can plainly see in just a couple of days. Packaged in easy to use hermetically sealed aluminum sachets to ensure 100% purity, just add 1 or 2 sachets per 25 gallons to your normal nutrient scheme in the last three weeks before flushing. You will not be disappointed!