Everyone uses Can filters to scrub, and clean the air from our gardens. Many people come into our stores asking us to please show them how to setup a MaxFan with their Can filter. CF Group has some great videos on youtube that show perfectly how to set it up. Here is a video on how to install the 8″ and the 10″ Max fan onto your can filter. Getting this right is a really important part of making a perfect indoor garden. Please let us know if you need any more help. 1-866-PGS-GROW
Big thanks to everyone who attended our “Growing With Water” in-house seminar. Tom Boyd and CEO of PGS, Matt Hayden were both active and on hand to help explain this new and exciting water treatment technology. They both do a great job putting into words exactly what it is the Mobile Spring can offer your garden. Here is what was an extremely intensive seminar, broken down into three easy to watch 10 minute clips.
In short, the concept is, instead of using nutrients and other enhancers to make your plants bigger and healthier, address your water first, and make it as beneficial as possible using the Mobile Spring, then the nutrient you do use will be more effective and you will need to use less. We personally have seen tremendous results with the Mobile Spring and we are now offering it for sale at our retail locations for interested growers. Come and be a part of the latest in horticulture. 1-866-PGS-GROW
Thanks again to Tom and Jeff from Restorative Inc. for their time!
How is the air flow in your garden? More then intake and ventilation, you must always think about moving that air around in your room. Air King wall mounted oscillating fans are a perfect solution for keeping the air in your room from going stagnant. Every corner of your garden should be constantly refreshed with blowing air to prevent powdery mildew, swarming insects, and heat build up. Having good air flow also increases plant transpiration and respiration rates, allowing you to water more often and get better harvests. One of the most common mistakes novice gardeners make is not having enough secondary air flow inside your room in addition to filtration and ventilation.
We carry 12″ 14″ 16″ and 18″ wall mount and pedestal style Air King fans. These fans have been around forever. We have many customers that buy Air King fans at our stores, and they tell us they still have Air Kings from over 10 years ago that are still working. There is no doubt that these fans are one of the best options for keeping the air in your room moving! 1-866-PGS-GROW 
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Professional Gardening Systems Presents:
Happy Aloha Friday gang!! As part of our ongoing educational series of in-house seminars, videos, and audio podcasts, we are holding a 2 hour intensive on the topic of addressing water variables to increase yield.
Saturday June 27th, 3-5pm @ our warehouse location
3715 Santa Rosa Ave. CA. 95407 #A7
We often turn to nutrient companies for help in increasing yields, enhancing flavors, and boosting the health of our plants. It is all too often that we over look the most essential part of growing, our water. While many of us use RO filtration or UV, or softeners etc.. This neglects to address anything other then filtration, and sterilization. If you have “bad water” quality or high levels of undesirable things in your water, a quality RO ( Reverse Osmosis ) filter may be necessary, but to gain the most from your water, PGS treats our water with what we call “The Restorative Effect” giving water a super charge of life and a a new ionic alignment, allowing plants to flourish at a higher growth rate.
This intensive seminar will be an introduction to the PGS water systems. Inspired by nature to optimize plant growth and yields. Topics will include.
We have been fortunate to connect with some brilliant guys from Restorative Inc.
Tom Boyd, self proclaimed “Biomimicry Educator” will be on hand to share his extensive experience and knowledge about how water alone can increase the yields and overall vigor and health of your plants.
Feel free to come on in right @ 3pm or call us and we will reserve a seat for you, 1-866-PGS-GROW. We are really excited to bring this data to you all, and we will be video taping it and posting a video podcast of the seminar asap, so don’t worry if you can’t attend, PGSGROW.COM continually strives to bring you all the most important advancements availible to our cultivation industry today. We look forward to seeing everyone soon!
Learn about your tap water before you come and gain more perspective on the seminar in advance – Click here for the Wiki page on Tap water
Today I’m going to go over the benefits of using General Hydroponics coco baskets. They break down into three major groups, ease of use, root heath, and sustainability.
Easy to use: The coco baskets are matted coco fibers that are covered in a natural latex. They can be potted up with soil, or soilless media, like perlite, coir and hydroton. While you can easily use them in a conventional way, and water overhead, the coco baskets are ideal for ebb and flow. The baskets soak water and nutrients up from the ebb and flow tray. They basically let you drench the roots, because the water runs out immediately. The 8″ baskets, shown above have thin walls, about 1/8th inch thick, and the larger baskets have much wider walls, about 3/4 inch thick. All the sizes are incredibly light.
Root health: Indoors under lights, or outdoors under the glaring sun, black plastic pots get really really hot. The coco baskets are remarkably cooler. Air literally moves through the weave of the fibers, to directly cool the roots. And everyone knows, roots love oxygen. The baskets also eliminate larger plants becomming “root bound.” Roots can freely grow through the bottom and sides of the coco baskets.
Sustainability: Our coco products are the most ecologically sound products available. Coco is a sustainable fiber product and also is bio-degradable. But our baskets are sturdy and do not easily break down. 1-866-PGS-GROW
Thanks To GeneralHydroponics.com for the article – Original Post Here
by Michael P. Amaranthus, Ph.D. This article originally appeared in The Spring
1999 issue of Florida Landscape Architecture Quarterly, reprinted with
permission from the author.
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| Figure 1 An electron micrograph of a mycorrhiza on an evergreen seedling. Mycorrhizal filaments radiate into the soil from the mycorrhiza root tip. |
Little things run the world. This is especially true when it comes to getting plants established. Under natural conditions plants live in close association with soil organisms called mycorrhizal fungi. These fungi colonize plant roots and extend the root system into the surrounding soil. (Figure 1.) Estimates of amounts of mycorrhizal filaments present in healthy soil are astonishing. Several miles of filaments can be present in less than a thimbleful of soil associated with vigorously growing plants. The relationship is beneficial because the plant enjoys improved nutrient and water uptake, disease resistance and superior survival and growth.
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| Figure 2 Maple (Acer spp.) seedling root systems. The seedling on the right was treated with a mycorrhizal root dip gel. The maple seedling on the left was an untreated control. |
Nearly all commercially produced plants form mycorrhizae and require the association for maximum performance in outplanted environments. (Figure 2). This not-so-glorious association between plants and mycorrhizal fungi is fundamental to plant establishment and growth.Depending on the environment in which they are growing, plants may divert up to 80% or more of the net energy fixed as sunlight to below-ground processes. Some of this energy goes into root growth; but, a high proportion may be used to feed mycorrhizal fungi and other soil organisms. This is not energy that is lost to the plant. On the contrary, soil organisms living in the root zone greatly influence the ability of plants to establish through effects on nutrient cycling, pathogens, soil aeration, and soil water uptake. Of the various soil organisms that benefit plant establishment, the most is known about mycorrhizal fungi. Roughly 90% of plant species are thought to form mycorrhizae: the combination of fungal and root tissue is called the mycorrhiza and the fungal partner is termed a mycorrhizal fungus.
Commercial production of mycorrhizal fungi for practical use has been available in the last decade, however, the importance of mycorrhizal fungi has been evident for some 400 million years. The earliest fossil records of the roots of land plants contain evidence of the fossil remains of mycorrhizal fungi. Scientists now believe that the “marriage” of mycorrhizal fungus and plant played an essential role in the evolutionary step which brought aquatic plants from sea to land. At some point in the evolutionary process, a filament penetrated into the outer cells of a primitive plant root. Once there, it accommodated itself so nicely that a new, more complex entity emerged, the mycorrhiza. The increased absorbing area provided by an elaborate system of fungal filaments allowed aquatic plants to leave the marine environment and exploit a relatively harsh soil environment. In today’s man-made environments plants can be greatly stressed and the relationship between fungus and root is critical. Unnatural conditions such as concrete, asphalt, roadsides, sidewalk cut outs, trenching, drain fields, air pollution, shopping malls, business districts, and suburban developments adversely effect the presence and abundance of mycorrhizal fungi.
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| Figure 3 Construction sites typically compact the soil and remove organic matter and topsoil. These practices reduce or eliminate mycorrhizal fungi. |
Man-made environments often suffer from compaction, top soil loss, and the absence of quality organic matter, conditions which reduce the habitat necessary for the mycorrhizal fungus to survive and thrive (Figure 3). Artificial landscapes effect the mycorrhizal relationship in two fundamental ways. First, they isolate the plant from beneficial mycorrhizal fungi available in natural settings and, secondly, they increase plant stress and the need for water, nutrients, and soil structure mediated by their below-ground “partners”.Fortunately, recent advancements in mycorrhizal research and application have made landscape applications with mycorrhiza easy and inexpensive. New products and knowledge result in increased transplant survival and lower long-term maintenance. However, to be successful the landscape contractor requires an appreciation of fungi beyond itchy toes and moldy bread.
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| Figure 4 “Cut-away” view of the root structure of conifer seedlings, enhanced and extended by a network of mycorrhizal filaments. |
How do mycorrhizal fungi work?Mycorrhizal root systems increase the absorptive the absorbing area of roots 10 to 1000 times thereby greatly improving the ability of the plants to utilize the soil resource. (Figure 4). Mycorrhizal fungi are able to absorb and transfer all of the 15 major macro and micro nutrients necessary for plant growth. Mycorrhizal fungi release powerful chemicals into the soil that dissolve hard to capture nutrients such as phosphorous, iron and other “tightly bound” soil nutrients. This extraction process is particularly important in plant nutrition and explains why non mycorrhizal plants require high levels of fertility to maintain their health. Mycorrhizal fungi form an intricate web that captures and assimilates nutrients conserving the nutrient capital in soils. In non mycorrhizal conditions much of this fertility is wasted or lost from the system.
Mycorrhizal fungi are involved with a wide variety of other activities that benefit plant establishment and growth. The same extensive network of fungal filaments important to nutrient uptake are also important in water uptake and storage. In non-irrigated conditions, mycorrhizal plants are under far less drought stress compared to non mycorrhizal plants. In a recent study, true fir seedlings treated with mycorrhizal inoculum had 43 percent less plant moisture stress than non-treated control seedlings on a droughty, difficult to revegetate site. Tree vigor, color and needle retention were improved with the mycorrhizal treated plants (Figure 5). Rhizopogon mycorrhizae were abundant on the roots systems of the treated plants (Figure 6). Numerous studies have shown Rhizopogon spp. is an aggressive colonizer in non-irrigated and harsh field conditions.
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| Figures 5a & 5b Red fir seedlings (Abies magnifica) outplanted on a difficult to regenerate dry site. Seedling A was treated with a mycorrhizal inoculum; seedling B was not treated. Treated seedlings averaged 43% less moisture stress and 30% more needle retention. |
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| Figure 6 A cluster of Rhizopogon mycorrhizae. A single root tip colonized by the Rhizopogon mycorrhizal fungus will branch into a densely packed coral-like accumulation of many root tips. |
Disease and pathogen suppression is another benefit for a mycorrhizal plant. Mycorrhizal roots have a mantle (a tight, interwoven sock-like covering of dense filaments) that acts as a physical barrier against the invasion of root diseases. In addition, mycorrhizal fungi attack pathogen or disease organisms entering the root zone. For example, excretions of specific antibiotics produced by mycorrhizal fungi immobilize and kill disease organisms. Some mycorrhizal fungi protect pine trees from Phytophora, Fusarium and Rhizoctonia diseases. In a recent University study, pine trees were purposefully inoculated with the common disease organism- Fusarium. Over 90% of the pine trees died. Only the pine trees inoculated with the mycorrhizal fungus Rhizopogon survived. Survival rates for Rhizopogon treated pines exceeded 95%.Mycorrhizal fungi also improve soil structure. Mycorrhizal filaments produce humic compounds and organic “glues” (extracellular polysaccharides) that bind soils into aggregates and improves soil porosity.
Soil porosity and soil structure positively influence the growth of plants by promoting aeration, water movement into soil, root growth, and distribution. In sandy or compacted soils the ability of mycorrhizal fungi to promote soil structure may be more important than the seeking out of nutrients.
Does my soil already contain mycorrhizal fungi?
Soils in natural settings are full of beneficial soil organisms including mycorrhizal fungi. Research indicates, however, many common practices can degrade the mycorrhiza-forming potential of soil. Tillage, fertilization, removal of topsoil, erosion, site preparation, road and home construction, fumigation, invasion of non native plants, and leaving soils bare are some of the activities that can reduce or eliminate these beneficial soil fungi. In many man-made landscapes we have reduced or eliminated the soil organisms necessary for plants to function without high levels of maintenance.
Nursery grown plants available to landscape contractors are often deficient in mycorrhizae. Plants raised in most nurseries receive intensive care and feeding. The artificial conditions, high levels of water and nutrients and sterile soils at the nursery keep certain soil born diseases to a minimum and produce vast quantities of plants for sale. Unfortunately, the high levels of water and nutrients and the lack of mycorrhizae discourage the plant to produce the extensive root system it will need for successful transplantation. The result are plants poorly adapted to the eventual outplanted condition that must be weaned from intensive care systems and begin to fend for themselves. Application of mycorrhizal inoculum during transplanting can encourage plant establishment and set the plant on track to feed for itself. Research studies document the need of plants to generate a mycorrhizal roots system in order to become established. Maintaining intensive inputs is necessary until the extensive root system is achieved . There are practical solutions to some of the mycorrhizal deficiencies in man-made environments and reintroducing mycorrhizal fungi in areas where they have been depleted can dramatically improve plant establishment and growth.
What types of mycorrhizal products are available?A landscape contractor can enhance plant root growth and transplant success and ameliorate many problems that result from intensive care practices at the nursery. Plants grew and thrived on this planet for millions of years without intensive care. Nature provides the template. A more sustainable approach to plant establishment and growth includes using mycorrhizal fungi.
Certain mycorrhizal spores or “seeds” of the fungus have been selected for their establishment and growth-enhancing abilities. The goal is to create physical contact between the mycorrhizal inoculant and the plant root. Mycorrhizal inoculant can be sprinkled onto roots during transplanting, worked into seed beds, blended into potting soil, watered in via existing irrigation systems, applied as a root dip gel or probed into the root zone of existing plants. The type of application depends upon the conditions and needs of the applicator. Generally, mycorrhizal application is easy, inexpensive and requires no special equipment. Typically for small plants the cost ranges from less than a penny to a few cents per seedling. For larger plants more inoculum is needed and costs are higher.
Mycorrhizal products often contain other ingredients designed to increase the effectiveness of the mycorrhizal spores. For example, organic matter is often added to encourage microbial activity , soil structure and root growth. Stress vitamins improve nutrient uptake and builds root biomass. Water absorbing gels help “plaster” beneficial mycorrhizal spores in close proximity to feeder roots and encourage favorable soil moisture conditions for mycorrhizae to form and grow. Organic biostimulants, in general are effective ingredients in mycorrhizal products. By promoting field competitiveness, stress resistance and nutrient efficiency biostimulants reduce barriers for rapid mycorrhizal formation especially during the critical period following transplanting.
Mycorrhizal diversity is important
Natural areas generally contain an array of mycorrhizal fungal species. The proportions and abundance of mycorrhizal species often shifts following any disturbance. Not all mycorrhizal fungi have the same capacities and tolerances. Some are better at imparting drought resistance while others may be more effective in protecting against pathogens or have more tolerance to soil temperature extremes. Because of the wide variety of soil, climatic, and biotic conditions characterizing man-made environments, it is improbable that a single mycorrhizal fungus could benefit all host species and adapt to all conditions. For example, the types and activities of mycorrhizal fungi associated with young plants may be quite different from those associated with mature plants Likewise, mycorrhizal fungi needed to help seedlings establish themselves on difficult sites may differ from those which sustain productivity over a long-lived plant.
Diversity likely provides a buffering capacity not found on sites with only one or few species. The diversity of mycorrhizal fungi formed by a given plant may increase its ability to occupy diverse below-ground niches and survive a range of chemical and physical conditions.
Conclusions
The lack of mycorrhizal fungi on plant root systems is a leading cause of poor plant establishment and growth in a variety of forest, restoration, agricultural, suburban and urban landscapes. As we develop holistic approaches to understanding man-made environments we must factor in the inseparable connections to soil organisms. Mycorrhizal fungi are one of the more important groups of soil organisms and play a critical role in nutrient cycling, mediating plant stress and protecting against pathogens. They are also cornerstones in the ability of plants to survive transplant shock . Plants have co-evolved mutualistic relationships with symbiotic mycorrhizal fungi such that their survival and fitness depends upon the healthy functioning of these fungi and vice versa. Just as plants invest tremendous capital in the form of energy to fuel below-ground soil organisms, so too we must “look below the surface ” to understand and utilize these beneficial fungi.
Dr. Mike Amaranthus spent 20 years with Oregon State University and the USDA Forest Service where he authored over 50 research papers on mycorrhizae. He is a recipient of the USDA Department of Agriculture Highest Honors Award for scientific achievement and has been featured on several major national and international television programs.
Thanks to Fungi.com for the article – Original Page Here
You don’t need chemicals to supercharge your garden. Mother Nature has more than her fair share of tricks up her sleeve at your disposal!
For this post I am going to mention just a few of the many powders that are approved to use in organic cultivation. I am not going to give recipes and quantities to use because there so many different types of soil mixes available, many already having some of these additives already included. I also won’t refer to specific brands – again because there are so many! All of these supplements are easily available from PGS where you can ask for further advice regarding your soil mixture. Many people are surprised that these rocks from mining can be used in organic gardening but they are essential in indoor soil mixes as there is no subsoil under the plant to provide these minerals.
Bat Guano is a euphemism for bat shit. This is usually mined from bat caves in tropical and sub-tropical countries. Bird guano has been used but bat guano has a legendary reputation among indoor growers. The results on heavy-feeding plants such as fast-growing vegetables can be amazing. It is quite smelly, though there are aged versions that do not smell so offensive. Of course, the contents vary according to the diet of the bats that dropped it. Bats have a very nutrient-rich diet. As they must be as light as possible to fly they do not keep food in their guts for very long. This means that the manure they produce is still full of nutrients, many forming complex chemicals similar to very rich organic soil. Some cave-dwelling salamanders that are normally meat-eaters live happily on a diet of bat guano. Most bats eat insects and insect shells contain large amounts of chitin, the same as the cell walls of fungi. Chitin is like a starch with added nitrogen. For this reason the bacteria and fungi in your soil can use it efficiently, it is a food they recognise. As well as nitrogen it contains high levels of phosphorus and potassium and many micronutrients. All this adds up to a very powerful fertiliser and you must be careful not to overfeed your plants, especially when the soil has already got fertiliser in it. You can do more damage to a plant by adding too much rather than too little nutrition, burning the delicate feeding hairs on the roots.
Quantity: Suggestions range up to a maximum of 4 to 5% of the total soil though this is only recommended for very heavy-feeding plants.
Clay powder is, like diatomite, a method of adding natural silica minerals to your soil mix. Not to be confused with clay pebbles which have been baked into a ceramic which hardly interacts chemically with the soil. These are much more complex minerals, with lots of essential micronutrients. Do not dig up some clay from your local riverbank, it may contain high levels of toxic heavy metals, even if it appears to be from an unpolluted area. I am afraid to say it is sensible to buy the relatively cheap branded powders from your local hydroponics shop. Their ability to absorb toxic chemicals and resist changes in pH can help a soil mix stay “sweet” and healthy for longer. The silicates in some clays are easily transferred to the plant. The advantages of this are harder, happier, pest-resistant plants that produce higher yields. The silica is used by many plants to strengthen their cell walls. Like microscopic shards of glass these “phytoliths” (from the Greek for plant stones) blunt insect teeth and preventing parasitic fungal entry into the plant. They do not harm human health when using the plant.
Quantity: The only reason for not having a soil made entirely of clay is the resulting lack of airspaces. The dense structure of the soil mix makes it hard for the roots to breathe and penetrate new volumes of soil as they grow. Generally only a little clay powder is used as a supplement.
Diatomite is a soft, crumbly rock that is pH neutral and will not affect the pH of the soil. It has many industrial uses including stabilising dynamite. Often used as a hydroponic substrate due to its chemical stability, though more expensive than clay pebbles. It is formed from the fossilised remains of silica-shelled microscopic algae. The carapaces of these diatoms are sometimes spectacular in their beautiful intricacy. The tiny spikes on these circular are deadly to many insects. They cut open the hard, water resistant shell of the insect which then dies of dehydration. It is also used against slugs and snails in the garden but must form a physical barrier around the plant. As long as you do not inhale the dust it will not harm humans. Some of the important mineral silica can be absorbed by the roots. By adding diatomite throughout your soil you can also provide a different habitat/refuge for fungi and bacteria that helps the biodiversity in your soil.
Quantity: Up to 100% of your medium can be made from diatomite as, like the clay powder, it affects the pH and saltiness of soil water very little.
Dolomite is a type of rock named for its discoverer, Déodat de Dolomieu. He found the rock in a mountain range that is a part of the eastern Italian Alps now known as the Dolomites. Diatomite is easy to confuse with dolomite as it is also a white rock. The mineral is sometimes called dolostone, dolomitic limestone and magnesian limestone. This last name tells us the difference from normal limestone, it contains magnesium as well as calcium. The mineral comes out of saturated solutions in salty lakes or the sea, so is also quite solidly crystalline compared to ordinary limestone. The big difference that this makes is the higher resistance to attack by acids. Ordinary limestone will, if added in excessive quantities quickly make the soil alkaline, with a pH higher than 7. Most plants will be very unhappy at this. Dolomite only changes the pH slowly and in response to very acidic conditions. As it adds both magnesium and calcium when it dissolves it is the ideal pH adjuster for soil in indoor gardens. The actual quantity you add does not matter too much as excess will do little except sit there.
Quantity: Add this around the sentence as is – Quantity: The actual quantity you add does not matter too much as excess will do little except sit there. A heaped tablespoonful for every four litres should be sufficient to “sweeten” a “sour” (acidic and usually nasty-smelling) compost mix.
Rock phosphate is another calcium-based mineral, though there should be lower amounts of other minerals as well, depending on the source from which it was mined. It will not change the pH at all and will hardly dissolve. “What good is that?” you ask. If you maintain a friendly fungal colony in your soil those fungi will form bundles of threads of hypha around each grain of rock phosphate and passing the nutrients along to the roots of their symbiotic ally, your plant. Phosphates are one of the most difficult nutrients to get into the plant as most metals found in nutrients form insoluble phosphates. By adding the phosphate as a solid you can get higher levels of minerals such as calcium, iron and zinc in your liquid nutrient. Again, excess should not matter as the fungi will only mine what they need. Remember to keep your fungi as happy as possible for the fastest growth responses from your plants.
Quantity: About 5% rock phosphate is ideal, though more may be necessary if the rock phosphate powder is very lumpy or solid rather than a fine powder or crumbly mass.
Thanks to Urban Garden Magazine for the article, Photos added by Pete – Original Page Here
One last note from us here at PGS, when ever you amend your grow medium with any supplements, always keep it simple and go light on the dose…1-866-PGS-GROW
Hey guys, hope you had a fantastic weekend! We had a super informational packed weekend working at our booth at the Food awareness Benefit at the Sebastopol Community Center on Saturday and Sunday. It was seriously multimedia filled, with dancers, live music, organic veggies and fruits, Incredible food, and lectures from many intelligent and heartfelt speakers. My personal favorite of the entire weekend was Paul Stamets. In fact his talk was one of the most inspirational seminars I have ever witnessed! Now thats a bold statement, but it’s none the less true. His incredible insight on how Fungi can change and transform our planet is not only hopeful but downright genius. From using fungi nano wires to create computer circuits, to ground breaking techniques restoring polluted lands. Entrepreneurial mycologist Paul Stamets seeks to rescue the study of mushrooms from forest gourmets and psychedelic warlords. The focus of Stamets’ research is the Northwest’s native fungal genome, mycelium, but along the way he has filed 22 patents for mushroom-related technologies, including pesticidal fungi that trick insects into eating them, and mushrooms that can break down the neurotoxins used in nerve gas.
All of us were very intrigued by what we were hearing and it was honestly the highlight of the entire weekend. After listening to what Paul had to say, I seriously believe that he has tapped into one of the greatest answers to so many of our current environmental and industrial problems. I strongly encourage everyone to investigate Paul Stamets research and see for yourself how intelligent and encouraging his work is.
He has a fantastic website perfectly named FUNGI.COM where you can get all the things you’ll need to start making changes in your immediate environment.
There are cosmic implications as well. Stamets believes we could terraform other worlds in our galaxy by sowing a mix of fungal spores and other seeds to create an ecological footprint on a new planet.
“Once you’ve heard ‘renaissance mycologist’ Paul Stamets talk about mushrooms, you’ll never look at the world — not to mention your backyard — in the same way again.”
Linda Baker, Salon.com
Here is a video from TED.com Paul does a very brief summary of his work. After hearing him talk for almost three hours the other day, and hearing about his three day seminar, I realize how much information there is to be had here and how amazing it really is. We are very much going to try and get Paul to come and talk to us here at PGS for our own video podcast. Cross your fingers…..
Paul’s analogy of how mycelium is the archetype for the entire universe seems too logical to ignore. From the string theory in physics, to the way the world wide web is inter-connected, to the way a micro chip processes information, to the grid of neurotransmitters in our brain, as Paul Stamet himself said over and over… This is THE way…..
Happy ALOHA FRIDAY gang. We want everyone to know that it’s not all about selling products for us, we love to share our experiences and give grow tips that we know are going to work and make your plants happy! Compost teas continue to be one of the most important developments in horticulture. An ancient technology, compost teas are seeing a huge renaissance of interest. Modern gardeners are evoloving the teas to an even more beneficial level, through the use of refractometers (brix), microscopes that measure plate levels of micro organisms, and the advancement of organic nutrients that feed the micro organisms created when we brew teas. Modern science meets old school technology and all of us prosper from it.
Today we have a great video on how to make your very own Compost Tea brewer with ingredients you can buy from just about any hardware store. I have personally tried this recipe and it’s terrific!
We really appreciate the enormous response everyone has given to our new site! All your comments and compliments are seriously appreciated! Have a great weekend, and brew some compost tea for me. ALOHA
General Hydroponics has been around for a long long time. In fact, after 20 years in the business, I must admit that GH has one of the most consistent formulas ever! They offer a huge range of plant nutrients, enhancers, grow mediums and systems, but today I want to talk about their FLORANOVA line. For beginners and long time experienced gardeners alike, the FLORANOVA series offers a remarkably simple and effective nutrient solution. Being a one part formula it is incredibly easy to give your plants a perfect dose of food every time you water. First time growers can rest their minds at ease, knowing their plants are getting full nutrition. Old school, long time growers, that know the merits of keeping it simple, love using Floranova. After using just about every plant food that is available today, I personally recommend this GH nutrient line FULL HEARTILY. I just prefer the simple one part formula over the popular 3 part, 5 part and 7 part formulas on the market. Plentiful, big yielding harvests are right around the corner too, no compromising on flavor or yield with this stuff! Come on in and ask for Pete and I will be happy to share more with you on the success I have personally had with Floranova .
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FLORANOVA™ SERIES Liquid Super Concentrated Nutrient • The marriage of hydroponic & organic gardening methods. FloraNova represents a breakthrough in fertilizer technology, as it gives users both the strength of a dry concentrate and the ease of a liquid. This unique formulation of highly purified minerals and natural additives combines the benefits of hydroponic as well as organic gardening methods. FloraNova, one part formulation, combines all the elements required for hydroponic cultivation, plus it is extremely concentrated. A very small amount of FloraNova mixed with fresh water will provide your plants with proper nutrition. FloraNova works superbly in hydroponic environments, as well as with both soil-less mixtures and soil grown plants. |
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FLORANOVA GROW®:
Use this specialized nutrient for rapidly growing plants during the structural and foliar growth phase. FloraNova Grow is available in the following quantities: |
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FLORANOVA BLOOM®:
Use this specialized nutrient for flowering plants during the blooming and fruiting stages. FloraNova Bloom is available in the following quantities: |
Rockwool continues to be one of the most popular grow mediums you can buy today. Rockwool has ancient roots that go back to Hawaii. Known as “Pele’s Hair”. Molten lava flying high into the air would get captured by the wind and create rockwool like we know today. The Hawaiians would collect it and grow a myriad of plants with it. These days we have a ton of companies that manufacture high quality rockwool hydroponic medium. The leader in rockwool production continues to be GRODAN.
Here is some information right from Grodan.
Grodan supplies cultivation solutions that comprise a combination of advice, support and a clean and controllable substrate. This results in the best basis for the cultivation of safe, healthy and high-quality vegetables and plants.
For over thirty years, Grodan has been at the cutting edge in the cultivation of safe, healthy and high-quality vegetables and plants. The Grodan Gallery illustrates the three pillars on which our approach is based: People, Planet and Profit.
Grodan Rockwool has been made in Denmark since 1969. Let us introduce you to Grodan stonewool: Grodan is water absorbent stonewool. Mother Nature makes her own stonewool which is known as angel hair from volcanoes. In the case of Grodan rockwool, rocks are heated up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit and spun into wool like cotton candy. This method gives a media that is sterile and always maintains its structure as in the case of Grodan rockwool.
We carry a full line of Grodan products. Slabs, Hugo cubes, 3 and 4 inch cubes, propagation cubes and more… Give us a call or come visit us to grab some today. 1-866-PGS-GROW.
The guys from CF Group sent us over a couple of great links to youtube videos on how to use their products. Their is no doubt that these can filters are the industry standard for odor and air purification. We sell more of these then any other kind of Active carbon air filter.
Check out the huge selection of Can products we carry at our stores and online shop.
Hey gang! Hope you had a fantastic weekend. We had a super crazy one hanging out at our Horticultural pavilion at Harmony Festival. We held raffles, gave away products, and talked for three whole days to everyone about new technologies in hydroponics and organic soil gardening. PGS would like to say thanks to everyone who stopped at our booth and to all the wonderful sponsors that joined us, including, Seth from Bountea, Everest from Urban Garden Magazine, Michelle from Sunlight Supply, Roy from Humboldt Nutrients, all the guys at CF Group (Can Fan), Tom and Jeff from Restorative Technologies, and of course all the incredibly hardworking PGS staff and volunteers that helped make this weekend so much fun. We hope you all enjoyed hanging out with us, and hopefully everyone managed to connect with us in one way or the other. Check out the photo gallery and come visit us soon! 1-866-PGS-GROW.
PGS at Harmony Fest.
Hey guys, it’s pretty cool to see how much this blog has grown. One of our very first posts to the blog here was for our own PGS nutrient line called, LOCAL HARVEST. So many people have been asking about a formula chart, so we have it up for you here today. If you have been wondering about organics and wanted to try it, or if you are a long time organic gardener, we are positive you will love what LOCAL HARVEST does for your plants!
Hydrogen Peroxide – The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly!
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) is essentially water that’s taken advantage of a ‘two for one’ deal on oxygen atoms. This extra oxygen atom turns out to be a right busybody and lends this substance some very interesting properties…..
A clean, oxygenated nutrient solution is liquid heaven for your plants. A pathogen-free nutrient solution allows your plants to get on with the process of growing and blooming without the energy-sapping distractions of fighting off nasties. And, of course, oxygen in your nutrient solution is just the ticket for healthy, vigorous root development. That’s why so many growers swear by hydrogen peroxide – it both cleans and oxygenates! “Cash back!”, as my friend Mr Partridge would say…
Hydrogen peroxide decomposes when it’s added to water. That is, hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) becomes water (H2O). However something has to happen to the extra oxygen atom, or oxygen radical as it is sometimes called – just a posh, chemical term for a solitary, unpaired electron. Radicals (also known as ‘free radicals’) are usually highly reactive, so they are highly likely to take part in chemical reactions. So essentially, a small amount of hydrogen peroxide added to your nutrient solution introduces countless ‘roaming radicals’ looking for a bit of action. Not unlike your local high street on a Friday night ten minutes after closing time …
Any lingering pathogens in your nutrient solution are neutralised as the oxygen radical attaches itself to the pathogen cells – this process is known as oxidisation. This renders the pathogens harmless as, now that they have their ‘hands full’ with the extra oxygen atom, they no longer have the capacity to get a hold on your plants. Essentially, your nutrient solution is ‘disinfected’.
This isn’t the end of the story, however. Oxygen is soluble in water. So, any remaining oxygen can be absorbed into the nutrient solution. The solubility of oxygen is dependent on temperature – the optimum is around 18 degrees Celsius.
One commercially available form of hydrogen peroxide is Oxy-Plus (also known as Liquid Oxygen) – it contains 17.5% H2O2. (Incidentally, Growth Technology, the manufacturers of Oxy-Plus, also make Oxy-Plus test strips which allow you to easily measure the level of oxygenation in your nutrient solution.)
You may hear of some growers who claim that H2O2 aids seed germination. In actual fact all it does is help to create a sterile environment. To 500ml of lukewarm water add 10 drops Oxy-Plus and mix well. Then soak the seeds in this solution for about 24 hours. Some growers sterilise their rockwool cubes using a similar (pH adjusted) solution and adding an early-stages dilute fertiliser such as Formulex) – but these mediums are pretty sterile in the first place. Personally I think all this is complete overkill and simply introduces other factors that could go wrong (like getting the concentration wrong, etc).
As for Hydroponics systems, most growers add 5ml Oxy-Plus, or a similar product, to every ten litres of nutrient solution. Make sure you stir thoroughly before allowing it to come into contact with your plants. Try diluting the amount of H2O2 product you require in a litre or two of lukewarm water first and then add this to the tank.
This procedure should be carried out two to three times a week to maintain optimum concentration in the tank. If you have the time to add Oxy-Plus every day then try adding it at the rate of 5ml per 20 litres of nutrient solution.
Hydrogen peroxide can be used to clean and sterilise your system and growing medium after your harvest. Once it has finished disinfecting it will reduce to harmless substances and will therefore pose no risk to future crops.
You can also use a hydrogen peroxide solution (5 mls Oxy-Plus to every litre of water) to circulate around your system in order to sterilise all your drippers and pipes etc. Just be sure to flush everything through afterwards with pure water before starting your next crop.
Wow – all this from the same bottle? I’m starting to sound like I’m on some sort of commission. So but before I get too carried away extolling its praises we need to explore the other side of the coin …
Right, so we’ve established that hydrogen peroxide is a strong oxidiser. It breaks down into water and the free oxygen radical is left to roam looking for trouble to sort out. Well, sorry folks, it isn’t all good news. In fact, aside from my overuse of real-world analogies to tenuously describe chemical reactions, I wouldn’t be surprised if that last section was making some growers’ blood boil!
So what’s the problem? Well, let’s come back to this oxidisation property. Some growers outlaw the use of hydrogen peroxide precisely because it’s such a potent oxidiser. If your nutrient solution doesn’t contain any pathogenic organisms then this free oxygen radical is sort of ‘unemployed’ – and we all know that the devil makes work for idle thumbs, eh? As well as causing oxidative stress damage to your plants’ roots causing chlorosis, necrosis, and stunting, hydrogen peroxide added to a healthy system can oxidise the very nutrients that your plants need to feed on! Essentially hydrogen peroxide can change the ionic form and ionic radius of nutrients which can adversely affect nutrient uptake by your plants’ roots. However, this isn’t a problem in an unclean, diseased system as the free oxygen radical will attack pathogens first – and leave your nutrients well alone.
You can use an airpump to bubble air into your nutrient solution to increase its oxygenation. You can also use products such as Guardian Angel and Trichoderma powder as a preventative measure against pythium.
That said, the optimum temperature for absorption of nutrients ranges between 23 to 26 degrees Celsius – significantly higher than the optimum temperature for oxygen absorption.
Remember –if you are using enzyme products such as ‘cannazym’ or ‘sensizym’ you should avoid introducing any H2O2 products into your nutrient solution. The only enzyme product that we are aware of that’s OK to use with a low ppm of hydrogen peroxide is ‘Hygrozyme’. If in doubt, ask at your local grow shop.
Hydrogen peroxide, either in pure or diluted form, can pose several risks:
Above roughly 70% concentrations, hydrogen peroxide can give off a vapour that can detonate above 70 °C (158 °F) at normal atmospheric pressure. This can then cause a boiling liquid expanding vapour explosion of the remaining liquid – a verbose way of saying that all hell breaks loose.
Only a crazy fool, or a highly trained scientist, would ever try to distil hydrogen peroxide – even at normal pressures it’s highly dangerous.
Hydrogen peroxide vapours can form sensitive contact explosives with hydrocarbons such as greases. Hazardous reactions ranging from ignition to explosion have been reported with alcohols, ketones, carboxylic acids (particularly acetic acid), amines and phosphorus. Many a chemist’s death has been linked to a ‘peroxide’ of some form or other. But perhaps the darkest side to hydrogen peroxide was heard by the jury in the 21st of July terror trial where it was alleged that the accused men bought hydrogen peroxide and mixed it with chapatti flower to make explosives.
Hydrogen peroxide, if spilled on clothing (or other flammable materials), will preferentially evaporate water until the concentration reaches sufficient strength, then clothing will spontaneously ignite. Leather generally contains metal ions from the tanning process and will often catch fire almost immediately.
Concentrated hydrogen peroxide (>50%) is corrosive, and even domestic-strength solutions can cause irritation to the eyes, mucous membranes and skin. Swallowing hydrogen peroxide solutions is particularly dangerous, as decomposition in the stomach releases large quantities of gas (10 times the volume of a 3% solution) leading to internal bleeding. Inhaling over 10% can cause severe pulmonary irritation.
Finally, and perhaps most disturbingly, hydrogen peroxide has been linked to some of the biggest mistakes in the world of hairdressing.
Thanks to UrbanGardenMagazine for the interesting article! Original link here
Hey guys, I just found this super cool gardening social network. We just started an account there, so we don’t have much up right now. It seems like a super cool place for gardeners to hangout and share knowledge. Check it out and let us know what you think. ALOHA
Happy Monday everyone. Holy crap did we have an exciting weekend over here. PGS was proud to participate in a huge party at the Playboy Mansion. We had so much fun and met some really exciting people. Thanks to everyone who came up to me and mentioned the blog, we really appreciate the support!
Today I want to write a little about my long running favorite grow light reflector, the Cool Sun XL. By Sunlight Supply, the makers of the super popular Magnum hood reflectors, comes one of the most reliable and cost effective grow hoods available, The Cool Sun. These reflectors have been around a while and Sunlight Supply has continued to develop them and make them better. With a huge 8 inch air duct and a convenient flip down hinge to clean and maintain the glass lens, your next successful grow venture should include a few of these reflectors. We carry both the 8 inch XL and the standard 6 inch version. Both are available at our stores and our online shop – 1-866-PGS-GROW – 
Hey guys! We are super excited today to bring you the first of our video podcasts! This is the first in a series of educational video podcasts on indoor and outdoor horticulture. One of the most important things to us here at Pro Gardening Systems, is to play a role in every gardeners learning process and watching people grow in leaps and bounds, not only in their gardens but in valuable knowledge also.
Roy Gomez from Humboldt Nutrients came down and gave us a perfect seminar on his wonderful products. What a nice guy, and we were super impressed with Roys knowledge and helpful information. Humboldt Nutrients has taken the grow industry by surprise, with their super high quality plant food programs. We have just added them to our fold of quality plant foods we offer for sale at our stores and online. So check out our very first video podcast and let us know what you think. Giant thanks to Roy and Humboldt Nutrients for taking the time with us! Check out their site. 1-866-PGS-GROW
there are 5 parts and the entire thing is around 40 minutes, all the parts are up on Youtube!
Transferring grow mediums: Rockwool to Soil-less/ soil.
When beginning to think of transferring over to a more natural growing medium here are a few things to keep in mind.
A simple cost analysis will show you that growing natural can save you money:
Based on having 4 harvests each year, and having 30 plants in your garden..
-120 6” rockwool cubes will cost you about $360.00
-If you desire 12” rockwool slabs add another $190.00
So one year in rockwool can range from $360 to $550.00
a year.
Compared to…
-30 reusable 3 gallon mesh bottom pots @ about $86.00
-16 bags of high end pre-mixed soil-less @ about $256.
-14 bags of cheaper soil-less mix will cost about $224.
-16 bags of good soil, such as Ocean Forest, about $168
So the pots will be a one time purchase at $86.00, and depending on what mix you choose, the total cost will be from $254.00 to $342.00 each year. And remember that you wont be spending $86.00 the next year, pots last for decades!
The environmental analysis is pretty clear. Most reports will say that rockwool does not bio-degrade.
So if it does it must take a LONG time, perhaps hundreds or thousands of years.
Soil and soil-less mixes can be thrown into a backyard as a top-dress to currently existing gardens.
Or filling a gap in the backyard, or starting soil for a new garden. If you throw it away, it wont have any comparable effects to the environment as rockwool.
Re-using mediums: Both rockwool and soil/soil-less mixes can be used for more than one harvest.
Rockwool must be properly sterilized(soaked in Hydrogen Peroxide, water mix) , and it will lose its shape to unusable quality in most cases within a year.
Soil/soil-less mixes may be reused as well. I would not sterilize these mixes like rockwool. Only the regular flush of nutrients at the end of a cycle, and the use of compost tea’s once or twice in the next run should be fine, possibly a mid-run flush as well.
(There are infinite variables, so take this advice with the idea that it might need to be adjusted to your own environment)
Common problems occurred in transferring.
The most common problem, in my opinion, when people make the switch from rockwool to soil/soil-less is over watering. The signs to watch for are:
-Droopy leaves, not wilting, bit not reaching for the stars either.
-Yellowing leaves, too-wet of a soil mix blocks magnesium intake.
-Slow or stunted growth. The roots have been drowned with water and are not able to grow.
-Purple stems.
Most of these problems will happen early on, just after planting in your new soil mix. The reason being is that most soil/ soil-less mixes do not hold the same amount of air as rockwool. This should not deter you from using natural grow mediums like soil/ soil-less, it is just a new learning experience.
One term I like to use is “teasing” the roots. If you have very young plants going into a soil mix their roots need to be treated differently than rockwool.
Teasing the roots is simple. Just let the medium dry out. This means that for the first watering in a soil/ soiless mix, you only need a couple to few cups of water per plant. If you are flood and draining as opposed to top feeding, you might want to wait until your plants are established drinkers to start flooding your table.( but you don’t have to) Hand feeding early on seems to give the best results.
The main idea is make sure each plant and its grow medium are not too heavy. PICK ONE UP. Feel how heavy it is, if its heavy, don’t feed again. Wait for a day, or two. Depending on the environment and situation, you might follow the first watering with 3-4 days of not watering. Again pick up the plant and medium, if its heavy don’t feed, if it is light, feed.
Also stick your finger in the soil and dig down an inch or two, is it drenched or airy? You want to make sure that you let enough air come back to the soil, and that is what you are teasing the roots with; a balance of water/nutrients along with air and breath-ability.
To summarize, water the plant, then let the roots grow and seek out new terrain, then water again, this cycle continues until the plant is established and drinking every day or two.
Another common question that I hear is: “Isn’t soil going to ruin my trays and other equipment?”
Well unless you completely cover your rockwool with plastic, you are aware of the black and green mold/algae growth that loves to bond with rockwool. This is what ruins trays and potentially plants health.
With soil and Soil-less you may have small fibers of dirt leave the pot, but I have not heard yet of major equipment problems. But you must also watch yourself too, brush of the outside of the pots after planting so even more lose fibers are caught before being put into the tray.
Thanks Bri @ norcaltruth.org
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