Archive for the Category » Nutrients «

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010 | Author: Pete

Hey guys, its been a cold winter, and it looks like spring has come a little early. It feels so good too! It also feels great to let everyone know that our end of year inventory is over and we are again fully stocked with all the essentials you need for your grow room. We are also gearing up for what is anticipated as the biggest grow season ever. Viva 2010, with outdoor and indoor projects being taken on in extremely aggressive levels, its super exciting for us to be able to provide for all the Sonoma County growers and beyond who are getting involved. We have -

  • Traditional soils, organic blends, soilless blends, rockwool, and coco pots ready to go.
  • Grow lights, electronic ballasts, magnetic ballasts, reflectors, high output fluorescent systems, LED Grow lights, replacement bulbs.
  • Hydro trays, containers, smart pots, complete hydro setups.
  • Complete organic and hydroponic nutrient lines – General Hydroponics, General Organics, House and Garden, Cutting Edge, Technaflora and tons of grow and bloom enhancers and accelerators.
  • Carbon filters of every size and shape
  • Wall, pedestal and exhaust fans and blowers of every shape and size
  • Ducting, clamps, foil tape, flanges, reducers, extenders, splitters, splicers
  • Co2 generators, controllers and parts
  • Organic and chemical pest control products
  • Master light controllers, Environmental controllers, High temp. shut off devices
  • Water purification systems, accessories and replacement filters
  • Ready to grow, self contained Darkrooms
  • Valves, elbows, tees, custom hydro fittings, replacement sprayers and misters
  • Full service repair dept. complete with loaner ballasts
  • Full time accredited botanist

We love to serve and provide the best advice and products available in the indoor/hydroponic/organic gardening industry, give our friendly grow experts a call today and let us know how we can help you. 1-866-PGS-GROW

Friday, February 05th, 2010 | Author: Pete
General Organics

General Organics In Stock

Aloha Friday Everyone! How is the state of your organic gardening? Are you using organic plant food? If not (shame on you JK) it’s a great time to try a couple plants or a whole round with General Hydroponics new organic plant food line, simply called General Organics. This stuff has a serious buzz going around it right now. At the trade show a few months back, GH was handing out samples and allot of us around here have had a chance to try it since then. Everyone unanimously ruled that GO is a great nutrient line. We have yet to try it in a hydroponic scenario, but in soil, soil less/coco mixes and compost based, outdoor gardening, GO kicked ass. Solid flavor and yield is what was reported the most. Usually a smaller crop is what people expect when using organic plant food, but I think this is a great example of another organic nutrient (like our very own Local Harvest) that can really pump out a bumper crop if you sincerely try it. We are super excited to finally have all three stores fully stocked with the full line of GO products. We wanted to test it out first before we unleashed it on to you all. This is something I don’t think most other stores do. Come on in and grab some today and see what all the talk is about for yourself!

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010 | Author: Invited Guest

Nutrient temperature

It can be beneficial to maintain the nutrient solution temperature within a range of 68-77oF. This will usually be achieved if the air temperature is controlled.

Figure one: Water heaters (left) are useful for heating nutrient in winter. In summer, ‘water-chillers’ (right are effective for cooling. These items can be thermostically controlled.

Still too cold? A cold nutrient solution (or cold roots) can lower nutrient uptake. If nutrient temperature remains excessively low, a ‘water heater’ can be used (figure one).

Too hot? Hot nutrient can cause disease and suppressed nutrient oxygen levels. Small tank volumes can be maintained by placing frozen water bottles directly into the nutrient solution. However, for convenience (or larger tanks), a ‘water-chiller’ may be required.

In either situation, burying tanks underground will provide insulation against extreme temperatures.

Nutrient disinfection

It is common to blame the nutrient for poor growth results. However, in many cases, the true cause is poor hygiene practices, especially the failure to regularly disinfect the nutrient solution. To prevent disease ingress (figure two), the nutrient solution, medium, roots (etc.) should be regularly sterilized.

Sterilizing agents must yield a residual chemical when dissolved in the working nutrient solution so that the entire system is treated each time plants are watered. Historically, chlorine dioxide, sodium hypochlorite and monochloramine are used for this purpose. However, monochloramine has the advantage of possessing a long half-life, is gentle on roots and is compatible with the majority of organic mediums and growth promotants.

Oxygenation (Aeration) of nutrient

Figure two: Root browning is a typical symptom of the root diesase ‘pythium’.

Plants consume oxygen via their roots for the process of respiration. For this to occur, the oxygen must be dissolved in the nutrient solution. This is achieved via aeration.

Aeration methods: As seen with stagnant water, simply exposing a body of water to air does not aerate it. System design generally determines how much oxygen becomes dissolved in the nutrient. Maximum aeration is achieved by breaking the water up into as small a particle size as possible via a tumbling treatment (e.g. waterfall, fountain, etc). In hydroponic systems, aeration can be achieved by:

  • Delivering the nutrient solution via spray jets.
  • Designing the hardware (for re-circulating systems only) such that the nutrient splashes into the reservoir when it returns from the roots.

In either case though, it is critical to ensure that the air is well ventilated where the aeration occurs; otherwise that air will quickly become depleted of oxygen or stale – figure three.

Figure three: A ‘raised’ lid permits airflow within the reservoir whilst still preventing light and dirt ingress and evaporation. Airflow helps prevent stale air and fungus/moulds.

An air stone and air pump can also be used. Air stones have the added advantage of promoting circulation of the nutrient reservoir to ensure it is evenly mixed (figure four). Make sure to position the pump in a well ventilated area.
Note: Oxygen also aids in keeping the nutrient sterile due to its mild disinfecting properties.

To support optimum plant growth, a nutrient solution generally requires a minimum oxygen concentration of around three milligrams per quart. It is generally noted that super-oxygenation fails to deliver improved growth results.

Also, there is a common belief that high temperatures cause oxygen levels to become inadequate. However, by referring to the table you can see that water can hold seven milligrams per quart of oxygen when at 104oF. Growth problems at higher temperatures could be attributed to photorespiration, increased bacteriological activity, etc.

Because new roots are the main supply path for oxygen, if new root growth is restricted then oxygen supplies will be restricted. Hence, when selecting pots/channels, ensure they will accommodate the likely root volume of the plants when at full maturity. Failure to do so may prevent the plants from reaching maturity.

Figure four: Air stones are a reliable method of ensuring oxygen levels are adequate.

Minimize exposure of nutrient and roots to light

Light will accelerate the growth of algae and pathogens. Further, some brands of chelated trace elements can decompose from exposure to UV light, which causes them to become unavailable for root up-take. Therefore, minimize exposure to light as much as possible by placing a lid on the nutrient reservoir, and other regions of the system where nutrient is exposed to direct light.

In achieving this, ensure the design allows adequate ventilation of air otherwise this air will become humid and susceptible to disease. For example, when placing a lid on the reservoir, have it in a raised position so that air can freely enter and exit (figure three).

Thanks to Maximum Yield For the article.. Original Page Here

by Andrew Taylor

Friday, January 15th, 2010 | Author: Pete

Happy Aloha Friday PGS Blog Readers. Whether or not global warming is real or just a fear based phenomenon, no one can deny the fact that we are all experiencing  climate changes locally and worldwide. It doesn’t matter if you grow indoor or outside, these changes  effect all of us and our growing habits. One of the most obvious and noticeable things so far is water prices, shortages, water quality, and the politics behind it all. Growing crops that use heavy amounts of water is already becoming a little more costly then it did say 10 years ago. Fast forward another 10 years from now, and what do you expect water prices and availability to do? All trends and analysis, articles, studies, hypothesis, and science say that we will have less and less water as time goes by and it will be more and more expensive as the years pass. This is not just global warming hype or conspiracy theory, if you think your going to always have that fresh water right at the tap for the same $$ that you pay now, you are kidding yourself. As resources get squandered and sold like product, we all will need to find ways to grow more with less water. I found an article about a couple new strains of rice that only need a fraction of the water. When I lived in Hawaii, I met Coffee growers and Grape growers that did the same. All of this makes me consider that we need some new strains of drought resistant varieties that don’t have such serious water demands, yet still yield a bounty of quality and quantity. Experiment with some of your strains and see which ones perform well with less water. I also know from my 5 hour seminar with Paul Stamets, that fungi, both on the top soil or medium, as well as inoculated in your medium helps with this process. He told us about beneficial viruses that work with fungi to colonize root zones and coat roots with a waxy substance that keeps them from getting stressed under drought conditions and allows plants to thrive even though they are getting less water then usual. I strongly encourage everyone to explore these methods of water conservation and control. I know it’s possible to get bonifide bumper crops even though your using less water. Many people come into the stores wanting to talk about how much less water they use by growing with hydroponic methods. This is an interesting conversation for me. I used to grow hydro, strictly ebb and flow. I also have tried Aeroflow, Waterfarms, Rainforests, and drip emission. If you always top off your res, then yes I would say hydroponic techniques does use less water then traditional soil/ container gardening, but I have never met one grower, myself included that didn’t toss out the water in your res after its been in there a couple weeks. While topping it off works, it often leads to problems over time, and all hydroponic recipes call for a fresh change of your nutrient solution at least every 10-14 days. What do you do with this extra water…. Well if your like 98 percent of all hydro growers, you flush it down the drain, wasting 1000s of gallons over a lifetime. Dumping your old nutrient water into your yard or garden is bad for the environment over time and can pollute ground water supply. All of this is leading to my point which is, USE LESS WATER. If you dump your old nutrient solution each time, then you will use less water doing a drain to waste or container to waste technique. As I type these words, I realize once again how vital organic gardening is, and how the microbial dynamics of your garden play such a crucial role in all metabolic functions and in obtaining the perfect “Bumper Crop” while being sustainable.

Rice Today’s July-September 2009 edition features the development of drought-tolerant rice and other research the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) and its collaborators are doing to curb the devastating effects of drought.

With some degree of water shortages predicted to affect 15-20 million hectares of irrigated rice within 25 years, smart crop management and even genetically modified rice may also play a role in helping farmers cope with the crisis.

Rice Today also reports that in Uganda rice production has increased 2.5 times from 2004 to 2008 through government initiatives, private investment, and farmer support.

Across the other side of the planet rice production, consumption, and prospects in Latin America are being explored. Rice is being promoted to consumers in Mexico and Central America and in Brazil production is improving.

In light of further boosting production, IRRI takes a look at some practical solutions to help reduce grain losses and improve grain quality during postharvest. Between 15-20% of rice grains are often lost at this stage because of unsuitable drying techniques, pests, and other factors.

Original Page Here

Thursday, November 19th, 2009 | Author: Pete

Ok, so you have grown a few crops and now your ready to maybe “kick it up” a little. Sounds good, we all get to that point, and building an indoor hydroponic, or container garden from scratch can not only be fun, but incredibly rewarding as well. Instead of mapping out different systems for you guys, and explaining features, I going to work from the premise that you guys are familiar with the equipment we will be featuring today. I want to show you how PGS has everything necessary to help you design your dream grow room.

Galaxy Electronic HID Ballast

Galaxy Electronic HID Ballast

Lets start with the foundation of any indoor garden, lighting…First thing is first, electronic ballast, or magnetic ballast. We have both types stocked in 600 and 1000 watt varieties.

Harvest Pro Magnetic HID Ballast

Harvest Pro Magnetic HID Ballast

Next thing to consider….Light Reflector. We carry a HUGE line of options, priced competitively. We can help you determine the optimal reflector for your situation based on 20+ years of experience.

HID Reflectors Stocked and Ready

HID Reflectors Stocked and Ready

Moving on to…. grow method. If your a die hard organic soil or soil-less fanatic, or a hydroponic scientist, we have a complete stock of containers, hydroponic mediums, and complete systems to meet anyone’s needs.

pgssoils

Next Step… Ventilation.
Anyone serious about growing indoors knows that ventilation is one of the most important things to take seriously. PGS has got you covered. Dampers, Filters, Extenders, Fans, Clamps, Reducers, Controllers and more….

Lets continue on to CO2 Enrichment… Tired of small yields and airy product? Increase your yields and overall structure with CO2 enrichment. We carry a large line generators, tanks, regulators, and controllers.

PPM-2a-600sentinal-co212010309188692126565279

Little things that make the difference between bumper crops and bogus results.

Keep your plants happy and healthy through the entire bloom cycle!

Now lets address Environmental Control….
Now that you have a great room in the making, don’t let the environment go to shit with neglect! Dial in the perfect temperatures, humidity levels and your electricity to run flawlessly at all times. PGS has any kind of controller for your environment you can imagine.

master-cntrl-130amptimerbox

movementandfire

Get Notified While Your Gone If You Have a Fire or a Breakin

Onto… Propagation What good is all of this without clones and cuttings to get your future crops ensured? PGS carries popular aero clone machines, as well as tradition Oasis, and Rockwool cubes, clone solutions, gels, and powders, modern T5 fluorescent systems and more…..

Kord-square-pots-ddSL-EZclone120.L

The key to success over a long period of time, is an intelligent, planned out nursery program, that includes all the things you would address in your bloom or vegetative environment. Temperature, co2 levels, relative humidity etc… Your future crops are only as good as the plants your nursery produces! Take the extra time to really create a perfect nursery and you will enjoy years of massive crops and prosperity!

960203

T5 Fluorescent Grow Lights - Perfect For Vegetative Growth and Propagation

Let’s not forget the staple of ALL gardens.. Nutrients

Ah… what to say about nutrients? Take the time to learn what works best for your particular situation. We can help, we have just about every major plant nutrient product that is available today, AND we know how to use them.

pgs-warehouse1

Perhaps you want a ready to go Growroom? There are some really great ready to go grow rooms that are easy to assemble, and easy to break down. They make alot of sense for even the most experience growers in some situations. They come in every size for any project… Including massive Mammoth size ones for epic projects.

GRDR15Don’t let garden pest ruin all your have built!… Pest Management.

After all your doing to build this dream room, don’t let bugs ruin this scenario! PGS has a full arsenal of organic and non-organic forms of pest management.

PGS Pest Managment Station

PGS Pest Managment Station

Did we almost forget Water Quality? Hell NO!

Without healthy, clean water as a basis, you will NEVER have a bumper crop. PGS has simple pacific sands filters, to full on huge RO systems.

SUPPHLTALL2GPMOk, I could go on and on about all the rest of the odds and ends, but the point is WE HAVE IT, from white plastic, Mylar, timers and fittings. Above all we offer a smile, and countless years of combined experience. Call us for prices and tell them Pete from the blog said to give you a deal!!! 1-866-PGS-GROW

Friday, November 13th, 2009 | Author: Pete

Picture 5Aloha Friday gang! I have been getting allot of comments about the Bloombastic post I recently did. I was surprised at how many people were clueless about that product. This made me curious and I did a little research on people who use Bloombastic and Atami’s other bloom enhancer B’Cuzz. Honestly I have never cared for the B’Cuzz product line, although many many growers have shared success stories with me. I think the name “B’Cuzz” just strikes me as some stoner idea for a name. “Lets just call it B’Cuzz maannnn” I can just hear it. Why would someone want to use this product? “Just B’Cuzz”…. pretty bad huh? Well the science is almost as erroneous with tons of “proprietary blends of bio enhancers” and “all B`cuzZ Bio-stimulators contain only natural components and are as such harmless to man and plant.” Well, don’t let that statement fool you, if you use too much of this stuff, it will kill your plants! (trust me on this one) Now, with that out of the way, let me go into what I think is positive about this product. I have many friends who swear by it religiously, and have shared some really nice looking end results with me. The thing that I have noticed as a constant variable is the intricate plant structure B’Cuzz creates. Brilliant color and a foundation of rich and frosty blossoms seems to accompany a crop used with B’Cuzz Bloom. I had a friend say he tried Bloombastic after using B’Cuzz and went back to B’Cuzz because it’s cheaper and achieves almost the same result. If you are looking for a new way to enhance your indoor bloom, I suggest you give B’Cuzz a try, just use HALF of what they suggest to use at first, then increase to normal feed as you see the plants accepting it. NEVER GO OVER THE SUGGESTED AMOUNT! I know with most other products, you can kick up the dosage a little and sometimes get a little better result. However, with B’Cuzz Bloom, if you go above the recommended dose, IT WILL KILL YOUR PLANTS!!! If you have a balanced hand when it comes to using bloom enhancers, I think B’Cuzz will improve your harvest.

Especially for the plant’s blooming phase, Atami has developed the B’Cuzz Bloom Stimulator. B’Cuzz Bloom stimulator encourages flower cell production and increases the manufacture and transport of sugar molecules in the flower development. This will lead to big, dense flowers and great taste. In this way, quantity as well as quality will increase on the final product. This bloom additive will help push your plants into bloom and keep them there. When a vegetative plant takes in blooming cells through the root system, those blooming cells set off a chain reaction within your plant. Coupled with the lights being cut from 18 to 12 hours, your plants will have no choice but to stop growing and start producing fruits and vegetables. The continual use of these bloom additives will ensure your plants will stay on the right course. Stresses such as interrupted light cycles and temperature variations that come with cold mornings and inevitable power outages will be minimized with these products.

Thursday, November 12th, 2009 | Author: Pete

Hey guys, as most of you know, PGS has a sister company called Local Harvest. Local Harvest produces organic plant food that out performs most synthetic, chemical/ salt based hydroponic nutrients. We recently have perfected the feeding schedule for Local Harvest and it’s based on our own experience with our own product. Feel free to give us a call anytime with any questions you might have. We want you guys to have some of the success we have had with Local Harvest!

New Local Harvest Feed Chart

New Local Harvest Feed Chart

Tuesday, November 10th, 2009 | Author: Invited Guest
humicacid2Humic substances (HS) are the least understood component of soil, yet one of the most important materials found in a healthy balanced soil system. While much has been discovered over the last 40 years, scientists who have experience working with HS realize that the more we know the more there is to learn about these versatile materials.
Over the past 15 years hydroponic growers have also proven that soluble carbon, in particular humic substances, are a limiting factor in aqueous based cultures and soilless media. Today most gardeners are familiar with HS on some level and have seen the benefits, yet many are still scratching their heads when it comes to understanding the labeling. The focus of this article is not to re-address the qualities and benefits of HS. Instead it is to explore the confusion surrounding analysis, registration issues and misconceptions about humic and fulvic products in general.

Currently, there is considerable buzz about humic and fulvic acid, which is no surprise to people who have experience using a high quality product. But confusion due to product labeling has many people questioning the humic substance industry. The way a product is described, guaranteed and marketed is largely governed by state agricultural regulatory departments. Unfortunately, there is no “standardized” analytical method for quantification, and accepted labeling practices often vary greatly from state to state. For example, California and Oregon will not allow the term fulvic acid to be used on any product label. Instead these state agencies consider fulvic and humic acid the same substance and require that only humic acid be used on labels. This creates analytical challenges and mass confusion for those products that are fulvic isolates, having no measurable humic acid in them. This might help to explain why some products will guarantee a product as 0.01 per cent and others may be claiming eight per cent. To help sort these issues out further we will review some of the commonly used, commercially available analytical methods as well as their advantages and disadvantages. First, to better understand the focus of this article we must define HS and the fractions thereof.

Chemical properties of Humic substances. (Stevenson 1982)

For the sake of this article we will use definitions without too many details:

  • Organic matter – All the non-living material of biological origin in a soil system. These are found in various stages of decay.
  • Humus – Stable portions of organic matter that are well “rotted” but not yet having gone through the humification process.
  • Humic substances (HS) – This is a broad heading that encompasses all fractions of the total material and can be defined as organic matter that is very stable; has been through the humification process; and is more resistant to microbial degradation. They are the end result of microbial degradation of once living organic material. Also often referred to as humate even though this is a bit of a misnomer.
  • Humic acids – The fraction of HS only made soluble under alkaline (high pH) conditions and which is insoluble in dilute acid environments. They have a high molecular weight and are brown to black in color.
  • Fulvic acids – The fraction of HS that is soluble in water under all pH conditions. They remain in solution after removal of humic acid by acidification. Fulvic acids are golden to yellow-orange in color.
  • Humin – The fraction of humic substances that is not soluble in water at any pH value. Humins are black in color.
  • Humate and fulvate – The salts of humic and fulvic acid respectively. When HS are extracted using chemical reagents this salt forms are created.

We can gain more insight from the following diagrams:
Figure one shows how molecular weight can be directly related to the color of an extraction or product. Molecular weight is correlated to the size of a molecule. The higher the molecular weight the larger the molecule’s structure is. While some may find this a tedious detail, it is an important fact because humic acids are actually too large to be absorbed into a plant’s roots or leaves, while fulvic acid is small enough to be easily assimilated. This is why humic acids are more closely associated with soil conditioning properties and feeding soil microbes. This is in contrast to the smaller fulvic acid, which is better for increasing nutrient efficiency and uptake, lateral root growth, building plant immunity and also stimulating microbes. Figure two provides us a “flavor” of what a fulvic acid molecule is like. It is important to note that HS are analogous to snow flakes because they are mixtures of similar types of molecules but not all are alike. This is due to the fact that they were created from a variety of different plants and other once living things. Figure three is a proposed humic acid molecule. These diagrams make it easier to envision the idea of molecular size and how it influences humic and fulvic’s functions in plant and soil systems.

Now that we have established that size dictates certain desirable properties and that there is a direct correlation between color and size, it would make sense to quantify both or either of these two fractions when labeling a commercially available product. In some instances a soil grower may want a higher humic content and be looking to improve soil characteristics or feed microbes; in other instances a hydroponic grower may prefer just the fulvic fraction for the biological benefits or as a foliar spray.

Compounding these regulatory issues is the fact that there are several analytical methods being used and/or accepted by different states. These can produce results that vary widely. To better understand how this occurs we must review the methods of commonly used analytical tests.

Model structure of fulvic acid. (by Buffle)

Colorimetric

In this test the humic acid is exposed to light and the measurement comes from a reading of how much light is absorbed by the sample. This value is compared to the value of a sample that is purchased from Sigma-Aldrich.

Advantages: Quick and easy making it possible to run many samples through the machine. This makes it cost effective for commercial use, which has lead it to be the most widely used test. A&L labs use a slight modification of this method, which is widely used by many manufacturers.

Disadvantages: Gives total humic and fulvic but does not give individual values for each (aka the total alkali extractables). The Sigma-Aldrich sample (standard) used comes from a unique deposit in Germany that can be substantially different in composition as compared to some of the materials it is being used to test against. (This information was obtained through personal communication with Sigma-Aldrich). Currently there is work being done to improve this method.

** Please note the following three methods measure the target materials by drying and weighing the material for the respective fraction.

CDFA

(aka the California method as it was developed by their state department of agriculture). This method separates the humic and the fulvic. It then discards the fulvic solution and measure all the remaining material, which includes the inorganic ash in with the humic.

Advantages: This is the only method that the California and Oregon departments of agriculture will accept when registering a product.

Disadvantages: Only the humic is measured while the fulvic is thrown away, and no purification steps are performed to remove the ash giving way to inaccuracies in the measurement.

USGS/IHSS

(aka the classical method) This method is used and endorsed by both the United States Geological Service and the International Humic Substance Society. This method separates and measures both the humic and fulvic fractions while also going through rigorous purification steps to remove all insolubles, salt reagents and other materials that are not humic or fulvic.

Advantages: Quantifies both humic and fulvic with their individual values in their purified state. Highly accurate.

Disadvantages: More time consuming and costly test. (This is the method that produces per cent for fulvic in the typical range of 0.01-0.02 per cent)

Model structure of humic acid. (Stevenson 1982)

Verploegh and Brandvold

(aka V&B method) Named for the duo of scientists who introduced the test, that is based on the classical method. This is the same as the classical test except that it goes through almost no purification steps.

Advantages: Measures both humic and fulvic. Quick and easy test to perform. Removes insoluble matter.

Disadvantages: Does not go through purification of the chemical reagents used to separate the humic and fulvic acids. This results in massive inaccuracies of the fulvic measurement because the majority of the reagents are present in solution with the fulvic fraction along with any amino acids, proteins, lipids and carbohydrates. (This is the method that produces per cent for fulvic in the typical range of six to eight per cent).

No matter what method is used the fact remains that until a single test is made standard and used by all registration agencies the confusion will continue through the marketplace. It is clear that knowing the percentages of the humic acid as well as fulvic acid is an advantage, considering that structure and physical characteristics determines their role. The most useful analytical method is one that allows people to see the unadulterated percentages of both the humic and fulvic acid contents of a particular product. Please keep in mind that although having the concentration of these fractions is helpful, it is only one parameter that helps us understand/judge the quality of a raw material or product. Because these substances can be formed from many varying starting materials and environmental conditions the structures produced will also vary. This is not taken into account with just a number. Other factors such as how a deposit is formed over time and how the humic and fulvic are extracted will also have a large influence on material or product viability.

by Ryan Zadow

Friday, November 06th, 2009 | Author: Pete

atami bloombasticFirst of all, happy Funky Aloha Friday! Today I am giving a formal report on BLOOMBASTIC from ATAMI. Bloombastic is a revolutionary nutritional supplement based on optimal levels of bio mineral nutrients in combination with next generation bio stimulant activators. This product is scientifically formulated to provide a comprehensive array of micro nutrients to ensure that your plants get a well balanced diet and show signs of vitality and vigor. Well, I am here to tell you, THIS STUFF WORKS! After getting samples from Atami, I was just too curious about this product and I had to try it. My initial impression was that there was not much liquid in the sample bottle. The next thing I noticed, was that this was some seriously slimy green goo, thick and mysterious, like some kind of magic potion you would make in the kitchen as a kid. It didn’t smell foul, but I was curious if possibly it had expired or something. I read the suggested feed amount, and cut it in half ( like I always do when trying a new product ) and gave it to only a few plants in my garden with my normal nutrient program ( I use FloraNova ). I found it interesting to note that on the bottle they mention to try using even half the amount suggested and “you will still see better structure, quality and yield.” well fast forward two days later, I needed to feed again, and WOW, my plants really did have a visibly healthier and more frosted look. I was encouraged to try the full suggest amount, so I did, and I’m serious, I have some of the healthiest looking, most robust, crystal coated plants I have ever seen! I am so excited about this product, and I can’t wait to watch how many people freak out about it. I strongly suggest that everyone tries it and join in my excitement.

Atami has identified an ideal PK ratio of 0-20-21 for explosive fruit setting and powerful flowering. When you combine this ideal Bio mineral Pk ratio with their optimal levels of micro nutrients and world famous Bio stimulant activators you get a one of kind plant cocktail that will absolutely upgrade the quality of harvest and increase your yield no matter what base nutrient you are using.

Features & Benefits

  • Targets the plants energy needs at a cellular level with ATAMI laboratories unique combination of bio mineral and bio stimulant technologies.
  • The combination of these two sciences will provide an explosion of sugar and flower production as well as a massive production of resin crystals.
  • A substantial final weight increase is the net result of the above two points.
  • This product will also stimulate the enzyme process on several levels that will help your plants deal with stress factors such as high heat levels, dry air, high light intensity, disease, and nutrient deficiencies.
  • Using Bloombastic will also ensure a soft sweet flavor and aroma of the bloom.

You can use BLOOMBASTIC on all substrates, as:
(Potting)soil; Coco (compressed and welled up); Rockwool (surfaces and cubes); Mapito; Quantigo.BLOOMBASTIC can be used in combination with all irrigation systems, as:
Nutrient Film Technique (NFT); Ebb and flow; Droppers; Sprinklers; Aeroponics; Bubblers.

Guaranteed Analyses

Available Phosphate (P2O5) 20%
Soluble Potash (K2O) 21%
Iron (Fe) 1.12%
1.12% Chelated Iron

Derived from:

Pottasium Phosphate, Pottasium Hydroxide, Phosforic acid, Iron EDTA, Laminara Digitata, Ascophyllum Nodosum

Directions of Use

Directions for use: Bloombastic should be used in the final 4-6 weeks of the bloom and ripening stage of the plant growth. Mix your usual base nutrients (this product can be used with any brand of nutrient). Then add 1/3 to 3/4 tsp of Bloombastic per 1 US gallon of water (0.5 –1ml per 1000ml) in your reservoir. Bloombastic is suitable for all sorts of cultivation substrates (soil, hydro and coco) and all irrigation systems.

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009 | Author: Pete

Hey guys, I just realized that our HWY 12 virtual video tour hasn’t been posted yet, and that’s unacceptable! Our HWY 12 location is one of our most organized and well stocked stores. Come and visit Austin over there and tell him Pete sent you from the blog and get 10% off your next purchase. 1-866-PGS-GROW

Saturday, September 26th, 2009 | Author: admin

Hey guys, as you all know, our Local Harvest Organic plant food is our own proprietary blend of the best organic plant food available. We now have a revised Feed Chart available for download. Please don’t hesitate to call and ask us about anything your curious about concerning our plant food! 1-866-PGS-GROW.

new-localharvest-feedchart

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009 | Author: Pete

kool-bloom-lgIf I had a dime for every person who comes in and asks us how to fatten up their crops, I would be rich. Adding a bloom enhancer at the near end of your crop can do the trick but which one is the question! Well, off the top of my head, Kool Bloom from GH has to be one of the most popular bloom additives ever. I must give everyone a small warning to be gentle at first when you use this product, while it will deliver bigger yields , fatter buds, and increased quality, it will also straight up sizzle and burn your plants to oblivion too if overused. For every 10 people who walk out of the store with some Kool Bloom, 2 or 3 will come back saying there plants are unhappy from it. It is ALWAYS from over use. GH has a legacy of recommending more in there feeding schedule then is necessary and is my biggest complaint of GH products, but there is no denying that Kool Bloom liquid and powder both perform perfectly when applied correctly. In general, (no pun intended ) it is more then a great idea to use half strength of any GH product, watch how it effects your plants, then adjust accordingly. I personally have used Kool Bloom with magical results, and would recommend it to anyone needing or wanting that extra kick at the end!

A highly concentrated nutrient additive, Kool Bloom (0-10-10) promotes abundant flowering and helps facilitate ripening in annual flowers and herbs. Rich in phosphorous and potassium, it is also fortified with General Hydroponics secret ingredients. This blend enhances production of essential oils and fragrances by mildly stressing plants during the formation of fruits and flowers. Can be used as a nutrient additive during the second phase of reproductive growth, or as a stand-alone nutrient at the very end of a plant’s life cycle. Promotes larger, heavier fruits and flowers.

Unique Features:
• Encourages abundant flowering.
• Facilitates ripening in annuals.
• Boosts production of essential oils and fragrances.
• Increases size and weight of fruits and flowers.
• Precisely formulated to boost potency and enhance the performance of all types of nutrients.

General Hydroponics Feed Chart – PDF format

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Directions for Use:
Hydroponics: Mix your usual nutrient solution, then add 1-2 tsp. per gallon.

Soil: Add 1-2 tsp. per gallon of water, then apply according to your normal watering schedule.

Ingredients: Magnesium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Sulphate.

Thursday, September 17th, 2009 | Author: Pete

alg-a-micIt can be downright frustrating when your garden gets hit with a deficiency. There can be many  elements that are missing from your nutrient solution, and for a myriad of reasons, including micro-biology, temperature fluctuations, over feeding too soon, extreme heat, and more…. I personally have been stumped a few times with plants that were showing deficiencies even when I knew they were getting everything I thought they needed. Your instincts can sometimes be way off, and when you cut back on the nutes because you thought your plants were getting burned you may find your deficiency symptoms getting worse. Often deficiencies can seem like an over fertilization issue, and sometimes an excessively high EC/PPM solution given too early in your flowering stage can lead to burn AND a deficiency, leaving even the most experienced gardeners “stumped” as to how to fix this problem.  A simple answer is to lower your normal feeding program slightly and add some ALG-A-MIC to your nutrients. ALG-A-MIC is a vitality booster made with cold pressed concentrated Norwegian seaweed. Alg-A-Mic can be taken in by the leaves through means of sprayers as well as with water directly to the roots promoting vigorous green growth. Healthy plants are also less likely to suffer from deficiency diseases and temperature fluctuations. Alg-A-Mic may be used in all stages of growth and bloom. button_buy_now

Tuesday, September 15th, 2009 | Author: Pete

So, searching around the internet and in desperate need of a feed chart for House and Gardens Aqua Flakes, I could not find an updated 2009 feeding chart to save my life. I quickly realized that I needed to scan and post these House and Garden charts ASAP. So without further banter, here are 15 different charts, 5 for Aqua Flakes , 5 for Soil A/B, and 5 for Bio 1 Component.

Aqua Flakes

aquaflakes-veg-phase

aquaflakes-six-week-floweraquaflakes-eight-week-floweraquaflakes-ten-week-floweraquaflakes-12-week-flower

Soil A/B

SoilA:B-Veg-PhaseSoilA:B-six-week-flowerSoilA:B-eight-week-flowerSoilA:B-ten-week-flowerSoilA:B-12-week-flowerBio 1 Component

BIO1-Veg-phaseBIO1-six-week-slowerBIO1-eight-week-flowerBIO1-ten-week-flowerBIO1-12-week-flowerHere ya go folks, so many people ask us for this information and it certainly seems VERY hard to find. We carry the full line of HOUSE and GARDEN nutrients at our retail locations and online. 1-866-PGS-GROW

Wednesday, September 09th, 2009 | Author: Invited Guest

Simon Hart from Grotek takes a detailed look at the all-important flowering phase and deciphers what’s really going on inside those buds and blooms.

CB065133In Canada as in the UK we experience seasonal changes and many outdoor growers who get down and dirty outdoors take flowering and fruit development for granted.  It is true that photoperiod change is a major contributor to the success of most crops’ success, and full credit to the sun for helping out!  But science is giving us insight into working with light to supercharge the flowering process together with the supplements we add.

The key question is:  What is going on inside your flower crop, and how can you work with your light source to accelerate the process and achieve the best yield possible?

Although the contents of this article could apply to outdoor growing from the summer solstice through the autumn, most urban gardeners don’t have much outdoor space and have taken their activities indoors.  In an indoor setting the photoperiod is changed manually by adjusting your light timer setting and shortening the length of your light cycle.

There are many options available for flower production and the choice can be quite overwhelming in your local growshop.  First and foremost, look to the shop owner for guidance – but even after you’ve heard their advice you must test what premium products are doing for you, and whether they’re providing the benefits you’re looking for.

Techniques for triggering flowering

When triggering flower development it is important to plan for your plants’ success.  Make sure you are transitioning your fertiliser levels properly to provide your crop with the best opportunity possible.  For example, a quick foliar spray of kelp meal a week before flowering can provide key signals to developing sites increasing cell division, promoting lateral branching and relieving some of the stress associated with initiating blooming.

There is also an emerging group of products based around this transition stage meant to stimulate key reactions within the plant, forcing it to increase flower site development.  By adding these products before flowering and into the initial flowering stage you can achieve a noticeable and positive change in flower development.  I know several people that are now adding these products but are also experimenting with a more gradual photoperiod change.

lotus_flowerOutdoors the natural cycle of seasonal change is slow and flowering is induced over several weeks.  Some experienced growers are now toying with their light cycle by adding 7 to 10 days to a plant’s flower cycle and adjusting the light cycle by an hour every couple of days.  Initial results have shown that if you have extra days to play with you can decrease the internodal stretching, keeping your plants a little more compact.  This could be a result of providing your plant the additional time to adapt and change certain chemical reactions during this transitional phase.

Primary Nutrients

Primary nutrients are essential for plant growth and development, especially during the flowering stage where plants are forced to expend a staggering amount of energy.  Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium all play a vital role in this amazing transformation.

Nitrogen

Upon entering the plant most nitrogen will be worked into the chloroplast where it is a key component to the formation of chlorophyll. Although nitrogen is exceptionally important in vegetative growth it is also a key to successful flowering at a lower level.  Nitrogen is essential in the formation of proteins and amino acids which can have serious effects on flower development.

Phosphorous

Develops a larger root system to feed flowers and is involved in the Kreb Cycle and the Calvin Benson cycle, essential for energy production and energy movement within the plant.  No phosphorous = no carbohydrates.

Potassium

Assists with chlorophyll production, starch formation and the movement of those sugars to the flowering sites.

Secondary Nutrients

Secondary Nutrients can be a lynch pin for success, as many nutrient deficiencies during a flowering period are related to the mobility of secondary elements.
Calcium is a backbone for cellular structure, and is very important for heavy flowering plants to reduce weight related stress.  Calcium is immobile once set in the plant so adding calcium throughout flowering is very important.

Magnesium is a co-factor in enzyme reactions and essential to chlorophyll production. It is a key to a flowering plant’s success.

Sulfur works to increase proteins and oil development while building vitamins and amino acids.

Micronutrients

Micronutrients are those elements required by plants in microscopic amounts.  But don’t underestimate their importance!  Many of them play a critical role in developing amino acids and propelling rapid photosynthesis.  Although these compounds are important to flowering I’ll save their discussion for a future article.  All good quality nutrients should be providing all necessary micronutrients.

Co Factor Elements

Co factor elements are a fairly new consideration in high tech flower production.  These elements are not considered essential for plant growth but they have been shown to influence reactions involving other elements, and provide additional benefits to the plants.  There are several elements that have been studied including: Cobalt (Co), Silicone (Si), Nickel (Ni) and Vanadium (V).  There are also ongoing studies on at least 10 other elements, which show some type of benefit to the plant.  There is also the concept of biological transmutation, but again, this is definitely a story for another day!

Synthetic or natural chelates?

Synthetic or natural chelates can be very important for nutrient availability and uptake within the plant.  Chelates form a bond with an element.  This bond or coating helps the molecule become more available to the plant (easier to absorb).  Synthetic chelates are generally used with micro nutrients such as iron and can be seen on the label expressed as EDTA, DPTA and others.  Caution should be used with synthetic chelates which can be phytotoxic at higher levels.  Natural chelates are found in humic acid, fulvic acid and in some forms of amino acids.  Humic and fulvic acid are both derived from leonardite coal which is a type of shale rich in hydrocarbons.  These extractions can seriously affect the rate of growth in plants and can be used in all stages of development.  A good rule of thumb is to use humic in soil and soiless situations which have a more neutral pH and fulvic acid in water culture where pH is generally slightly more acidic.  Fulvic acid is also a must for any foliar spray as it helps with nutrient rich spray being absorbed through the leaves.
Natural chelates are excellent for pumping more nutrition into your plants and stimulating microbial activity in your medium but because they are a carbon based molecule they also effectively add more carbohydrates (sugars) as they cycle through the plant.  Some veteran gardeners even recommend foliar spraying fulvic acid during late flowering on oil producing flowers to increase oil content and also induce a more fragrant aroma.  I’m not sure I endorse foliar spraying plants late in a flowering cycle but the gardener is always right!

Carbohydrates

Carbohydrates are the basis for most life on earth and are the basis for energy in all plants.  Carbohydrates are formed from carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen.  The photosynthesis reaction uses the sun’s energy to bind the three elements into sugars. Monosaccharides are simple sugar for fast conversion (glucose), while disaccharides are still fairly easy to convert(sucrose).  Polysaccharides are groups of sugars that from more complex bonds such as starches and cellulose.   Adding in carbohydrates during flowering can provide critical energy for your plants to supplement internal production.. As with many other topics discussed in this article this is a vast topic that will need a closer look in future write ups.

Enzymes

Enzymes are created by nearly all living creatures, including plants, using energy reserves from metabolism.  Supplementing with a high quality enzyme can provide a great insurance policy for important crops.  Good quality enzymes can be an expensive purchase and are not for indiscriminant use but under the right circumstances they are worth their weight in gold.  During the flowering cycle the primary function of enzymes would be to “clean up” the medium by decomposing organic waste.  This reduces the likelihood of developing a root based pathogen problem (ex. Pythium).  While keeping your medium clean a quality enzyme supplement will also be breaking down cellulose (polysaccharides) from dead root material, which will decompose into useful carbohydrates (monosaccharides) these will be reabsorbed into your plant providing additional sugar energy during peak flowering.  The three broad groups of enzymes used by plants are cellulose, protease, and amylase which break down cellulose, proteins and starches.

You are at the cutting edge!

The science found in some of the products on the shelf in hobby stores is virtually on the cutting edge of technology.  As an urban gardener it is up to you to test these products in your own garden and determine whether the benefits are worth the price-tag.  Remember that every plant and every situation is different so by testing various products you are working to improve your own success.  Always return the favour to the store owner that offered advice by giving them the feedback from your trials to pass along to other curious gardeners.  Now get back to growing!

Simon Hart is the senior technical advisor for Grotek Manufacturing in Canada.  If you have any questions regarding flowering or anything else garden related you can email Simon at simonh@grotek.net

Thanks to urbangardenmagazine for the article – Original Page Here

Thursday, August 27th, 2009 | Author: Pete

npkALOHA gardeners,  I actually planned on doing a post today on N-P-K, what it stands for, and how it effects your plants.  I see so many indoor gardeners grow for years without even knowing what N-P-K is and why these chemicals encourage biological responses in plants. One of the most common questions we get here at the blog and in the stores is “can you please help demystify plant food science for me?” I would love to, I have included an extensive amount of links and vocabulary on the subject for all of you loyal PGS Blog readers.. ( Love you guys!)

N-P-K = Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium

N = Nitrogen 7-9-5
Nitrogen is the first major element responsible for the vegetative growth of plants above ground. With a good supply, plants grow sturdily and mature rapidly, with rich, dark green foliage.

P = Phosphorus 7-9-5
The second major element in plant nutrition, phosphorus is essential for healthy growth, strong roots, fruit and flower development, and greater resistance to disease.

K = Potassium (Potash) 7-9-5 The third major plant nutrient, potassium oxide is essential for the development of strong plants. It helps plants to resist diseases, protects them from the cold and protects during dry weather by preventing excessive water loss.

Fertilizers are chemical compounds applied to promote plant and fruit growth. Fertilizers are usually applied either through the soil (for uptake by plant roots) or by foliar feeding (for uptake through leaves).

Fertilizers can be placed into the categories of organic fertilizers (composed of decayed plant/animal matter), or inorganic fertilizers (composed of simple chemicals and minerals). Organic fertilizers are ‘naturally’ occurring compounds, such as peat, manufactured through natural processes (such as composting), or naturally occurring mineral deposits; inorganic fertilizers are manufactured through chemical processes (such as the Haber process, also using naturally occurring deposits, while chemically altering them (e.g. concentrated triple superphosphate.

Properly applied, organic fertilizers can improve the health and productivity of soil and plants, as they provide different essential nutrients to encourage plant growth. Organic nutrients increase the abundance of soil organisms by providing organic matter and micronutrients for organisms such as fungal mycorrhiza, which aid plants in absorbing nutrients. Chemical fertilizers may have long-term adverse impact on the organisms living in soil and a detrimental long term effect on soil productivity of the soil.

Chemical Content

Fertilizers typically provide, in varying proportions, the three major plant nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium known shorthand as N-P-K); the secondary plant nutrients (calcium, sulfur, magnesium) and sometimes trace elements (or micronutrients) with a role in plant or animal nutrition: boron, chlorine, manganese, iron, zinc, copper, molybdenum and (in some countries) selenium.

Organic and Non-organic

Both organic and inorganic fertilizers were called “manure”, derived from the French expression for manual (of or belonging to the hand) tillage, however, this term is currently restricted to organic manure. Though nitrogen is plentiful in the Earth’s atmosphere, relatively few plants engage in nitrogen fixation (conversion of atmospheric nitrogen to a plant-accessible form).

It is believed by some that ‘organic’ agricultural methods are more environmentally friendly and better maintain soil organic matter (SOM) levels. There are some scientific studies that support this position.

History

While manure, cinder and ironmaking slag have been used to improve crops for centuries, the use of fertilizers is arguably one of the great innovations of the Agricultural Revolution of the 19th Century.

Key figures in Europe

In the 1730s, Viscount Charles Townshend (1674–1738) first studied the improving effects of the four crop rotation system that he had observed in use in Flanders. For this he gained the nickname of Turnip Townshend.

Justus von Liebig

Chemist Justus von Liebig (1803–1883) contributed greatly to the advancement in the understanding of plant nutrition. His influential works first denounced the vitalist theory of humus, arguing first the importance of ammonia, and later promoting the importance of inorganic minerals to plant nutrition. Primarily Liebig’s work succeeded in exposition of questions for agricultural science to address over the next 50 years

In England, he attempted to implement his theories commercially through a fertilizer created by treating phosphate of lime in bone meal with sulfuric acid. Although it was much less expensive than the guano that was used at the time, it failed because it was not able to be properly absorbed by crops

Sir John Bennet Lawes

At that time in England, Sir John Bennet Lawes (1814–1900) was experimenting with crops and manures at his farm at Harpenden and was able to produce a practical superphosphate in 1842 from the phosphates in rock and coprolites. Encouraged, he employed Sir Joseph Henry Gilbert, who had studied under Liebig at the University of Giessen, as director of research. To this day, the Rothamsted research station the pair founded still investigates the impact of inorganic and organic fertilizers on crop yields

Jean Baptiste Boussingault

In France, Jean Baptiste Boussingault (1802–1887) pointed out that the amount of nitrogen in various kinds of fertilizers is important.

Metallurgists Percy Gilchrist (1851–1935) and Sidney Gilchrist Thomas (1850–1885) invented the Thomas-Gilchrist converter, which enabled the use of high phosphorus acidic Continental ores for steelmaking. The dolomite lime lining of the converter turned in time into calcium phosphate, which could be used as fertilizer, known as Thomas-phosphate.

Bosch Farben and Haber

In the early decades of the 20th Century, the Nobel prize-winning chemists Carl Bosch of IG Farben and Fritz Haber developed the process that enabled nitrogen to be synthesised cheaply into ammonia, for subsequent oxidation into nitrates and nitrites.

Erling Johnson

In 1927 Erling Johnson developed an industrial method for producing nitrophosphate, also known as the Odda process after his Odda Smelteverk of Norway. The process involved acidifying phosphate rock (from Nauru and Banaba Islands in the southern Pacific Ocean) with nitric acid to produce phosphoric acid and calcium nitrate which, once neutralized, could be used as a nitrogen fertilizer

Industry

British

The Englishmen James Fison, Edward Packard, Thomas Hadfield and the Prentice brothers each founded companies in the early 19th century to create fertilizers from bone meal.

The developing sciences of chemistry and Paleontology, combined with the discovery of coprolites in commercial quantities in East Anglia, led Fisons and Packard to develop sulfuric acid and fertilizer plants at Bramford, and Snape, Suffolk in the 1850s to create superphosphates, which were shipped around the world from the port at Ipswich. By 1871 there were about 80 factories making superphosphateTemplate:Where?.

After World War I these businesses came under competitive pressure from naturally-produced guano, primarily found on the Pacific islands, as their extraction and distribution had become economically attractive.

The interwar period saw innovative competition from Imperial Chemical Industries who developed synthetic ammonium sulfate in 1923, Nitro-chalk in 1927, and a more concentrated and economical fertilizer called CCF based on ammonium phosphate in 1931. Competition was limited as ICI ensured it controlled most of the world’s ammonium sulfate supplies.

North America and other European Countries

Other European and North American fertilizer companies developed their market share, forcing the English pioneer companies to merge, becoming Fisons, Packard, and Prentice Ltd. in 1929. Together they produced 85,000 tons of superphosphate/year in 1934 from their new factory and deep-water docks in Ipswich. By World War II they had acquired about 40 companies, including Hadfields in 1935, and two years later the large Anglo-Continental Guano Works, founded in 1917.

The post-war environment was characterized by much higher production levels as a result of the “Green Revolution” and new types of seed with increased nitrogen-absorbing potential, notably the high-response varieties of maize, wheat, and rice. This has accompanied the development of strong national competition, accusations of cartels and supply monopolies, and ultimately another wave of mergers and acquisitions. The original names no longer exist other than as holding companies or brand names: Fisons and ICI agrochemicals are part of today’s Yara International and AstraZeneca companies.

Major players in this market now include the Russian Uralkali fertilizer company Uralkali (listed on the London Stock Exchange), whose majority owner is Dmitry Rybolovlev, ranked by Forbes as 60th in the list of wealthiest people in 2008.

Inorganic fertilizers (mineral fertilizer)

Naturally occurring inorganic fertilizers include Chilean sodium nitrate, mined rock phosphate, and limestone (to raise pH and a calcium source).

Macronutrients and micronutrients

Fertilizers can be divided into macronutrients and micronutrients based on their concentrations in plant dry matter. There are six macronutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, often termed “primary macronutrients” because their availability is usually managed with NPK fertilizers, and the “secondary macronutrients” — calcium, magnesium, and sulfur — which are required in roughly similar quantities but whose availability is often managed as part of liming and manuring practices rather than fertilizers.

The macronutrients are consumed in larger quantities and normally present as a whole number or tenths of percentages in plant tissues (on a dry matter weight basis). There are many micronutrients, required in concentrations ranging from 5 to 100 parts per million (ppm) by mass. Plant micronutrients include iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), boron (B), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo), nickel (Ni), chlorine (Cl), and zinc (Zn).

Tennessee Valley Authority: “Results of Fertilizer” demonstration 1942.

Macronutrient fertilizers

Synthesized materials are also called artificial, and may be described as straight, where the product predominantly contains the three primary ingredients of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), (known as N-P-K fertilizers or compound fertilizers when elements are mixed intentionally).

Reporting of N-P-K

Such fertilizers are named according to the content of these three elements. For example, if nitrogen is the main element, the fertilizer is often described as a nitrogen fertilizer.

Regardless of the name, however, they are labeled according to the relative amounts of each of these three elements, by weight (i.e, mass fraction). The percent of nitrogen is reported directly. However, phosphorus is reported as the mass fraction of phosphorus pentoxide (P2O5), the anhydride of phosphoric acid, and potassium is reported as the mass fraction of potassium oxide (K2O), which is the anhydride of potassium hydroxide.

Fertilizer composition is expressed in this fashion for historical reasons in the way it was analyzed (conversion to ash for P and K mass fractions); this practice dates back to Justus von Liebig.

Mass fraction conversion to elemental values

Since the N-P-K reporting basis just described does not give the actual fraction of the respective elements, some packaging also reports the elemental mass fractions. The UK fertilizer-labelling regulations [10] allow for additionally reporting the elemental mass fractions of phosphorous and potassium, rather than phosphoric acid and potassium hydroxide, but these must be listed in parentheses after the standard values. The regulations specify the factors for converting from the P2O5 and K2O values to the respective P and K elemental values as follows:

In phosphorous pentoxide, the element phosphorous constitutes 43.6% of the total mass of the compound. Thus, the official UK mass fraction (percentage) of elemental phosphorus is 43.6%. [P] = 0.436 x [P2O5]

Likewise, the mass fraction (percentage) of elemental potassium is 83%. [K] = 0.83 x [K2O]

Thus an 18−51−20 fertilizer contains, by weight, 18% elemental nitrogen (N) , 22% elemental phosphorus (P), and 16% elemental potassium (K).

(Note: The remaining 11% [100 - (18 + 51 + 20)] is known as ballast or filler and may or may not be valuable to the plants, depending on what is used as filler.)

Nitrogen fertilizer

Major users of nitrogen-based fertilizer[11]
Country Total N consumption(Mt pa) Amount usedfor feed & pasture
China 18.7 3.0
USA 9.1 4.7
France 2.5 1.3
Germany 2.0 1.2
Brazil 1.7 0.7
Canada 1.6 0.9
Turkey 1.5 0.3
UK 1.3 0.9
Mexico 1.3 0.3
Spain 1.2 0.5
Argentina 0.4 0.1

Nitrogen fertilizer is often synthesized using the Haber-Bosch process, which produces ammonia. This ammonia is then used to produce other compounds (notably anhydrous ammonium nitrate and urea) which can be applied to fields. These concentrated products may be used as fertilizer or diluted with water to form a concentrated liquid fertilizer, UAN. Ammonia can also be used in the Odda Process in combination with rock phosphate and potassium fertilizer to produce compound fertilizers.

The production of ammonia currently consumes about 5% of global natural gas consumption, which is somewhat under 2% of world energy production.

Natural gas is overwhelmingly used for the production of ammonia, but other energy sources, together with a hydrogen source, can be used for the production of nitrogen compounds suitable for fertilizers. The cost of natural gas makes up about 90% of the cost of producing ammonia. The price increases in natural gas in the past decade, along with other factors such as increasing demand, have contributed to an increase in fertilizer price

Nitrogen-based fertilizers are most commonly used to treat fields used for growing maize, followed by barley, sorghum, rapeseed, soyabean and sunflower[citation needed]. One study has shown that application of nitrogen fertilizer on off-season cover crops can increase the biomass of these crops, while having a beneficial effect on soil nitrogen levels for the cash crop planted during the summer season.

Agricultural versus horticultural fertilizers

In general, agricultural fertilizers contain only 1 or 2 macronutrients. Agricultural fertilizers are intended to be applied infrequently and normally prior to or alongside seeding. Examples of agricultural fertilizers are granular triple superphosphate, potassium chloride, urea, and anhydrous ammonia. The commodity nature of fertilizer, combined with the high cost of shipping, may lead to use of locally available substitutes or materials from the closest and/or cheapest source, which may vary with factors such as the relative cost of transportation by rail, ship, or truck.

In other words, a particular nitrogen source may be very popular in one part of the country while another is very popular in another geographic region only due to factors unrelated to agronomic concerns.

Horticultural or specialty fertilizers, on the other hand, are formulated from many of the same compounds and some others to produce well-balanced fertilizers that also contain micronutrients. Some materials, such as ammonium nitrate, are used minimally in large scale production farming. The 18-51-20 example is a horticultural fertilizer formulated with high phosphorus to promote bloom development in ornamental flowers. Horticultural fertilizers may be water-soluble (instant-release) or relatively insoluble (controlled-release).

Controlled release fertilizers are also referred to as sustained-release or timed-release. Many controlled release fertilizers are intended to be applied approximately every 3–6 months, depending on watering, growth rates, and other conditions, whereas water-soluble fertilizers must be applied at least every 1–2 weeks and can be applied as often as every watering if sufficiently dilute.

Unlike agricultural fertilizers, horticultural fertilizers are marketed directly to consumers and become part of retail product distribution lines.

Health and sustainability issues

In many countries there is the public perception that inorganic fertilizers “poison the soil” and result in “low quality” produce However, there is very little (if any) scientific evidence to support these views. When used appropriately, inorganic fertilizers enhance plant growth, the accumulation of organic matter, and the biological activity of the soil, thus preventing overgrazing and soil erosion. Studies in Australia show ‘biodynamic’ or ‘organic farms are less productive and less sustainable than conventional farms that used inorganic fertilisers. The nutritional value of plants for human and animal consumption is typically improved when inorganic fertilizers are used appropriately.

Many inorganic fertilizers do not replace trace mineral elements in the soil which become gradually depleted by crops. This depletion has been linked to studies which have shown a marked fall (up to 75%) in the quantities of such minerals present in fruit and vegetables. However, a recent review of 55 reputable scientific studies concluded “there is no evidence of a difference in nutrient quality between organically and conventionally produced foodstuffs”

In Western Australia deficiencies of zinc, copper, manganese, iron and molybdenum were identified as limiting the growth of broad-acre crops and pastures in the 1940s and 1950s. Soils in Western Australia are very old, highly weathered and deficient in many of the major nutrients and trace elements. Since this time these trace elements are routinely added to inorganic fertilizers used in agriculture in this state.

There are concerns regarding arsenic, cadmium and uranium accumulating in fields treated with fertilizers. The phosphate minerals contain trace amounts of these elements and if no cleaning step is applied after mining the continuous use of phosphate fertilizers leads towards an accumulation of these elements in the soil. High levels of lead and cadium can also be found in many manures or sewage sludges.

Phosphate fertilizers replace inorganic arsenic naturally found in the soil, displacing the heavy metal and causing accumulation in runoff Eventually these heavy metals can build up to unacceptable levels and build up in produce.

Another problem with inorganic fertilizers is that they are now produced in ways which cannot be continued indefinitely. Potassium and phosphorus come from mines (or saline lakes such as the Dead Sea) and such resources are limited. Nitrogen sources are effectively unlimited (forming over 70% of atmospheric gases), however, nitrogen fertilizers are presently made using fossil fuels such as natural gas and coal, which are limited.

Innovative thermal depolymerization biofuel schemes are experimenting with the production of byproducts with 9% nitrogen fertilizer from organic waste.

Organic fertilizers (‘natural’ fertilizer)

A compost bin

Naturally occurring organic fertilizers include manure, worm castings, peat moss, seaweed, sewage and guano. Sewage sludge use in organic agricultural operations in the U.S. has been extremely limited and rare due to USDA prohibition of the practice (due to toxic metal accumulation, among other factors.

Cover crops are also grown to enrich soil as a green manure through nitrogen fixation from the atmosphere by bacterial nodules on roots; as well as phosphorus (through nutrient mobilization) content of soils.

Processed organic fertilizers from natural sources include compost (from green waste), bloodmeal and bone meal (from organic meat production facilities), and seaweed extracts (alginates and others).

Mixed definitions of ‘organic’

There can be confusion as to the veracity of the term ‘organic’ when applied to agricultural systems and fertilizer. The problem is one of confusion of terminology between agricultural and chemical disciplines.

Minerals such as mined rock phosphate, sulfate of potash and limestone are also considered organic fertilizers, although they contain no organic (carbon) molecules. Some ambiguity in the usage of the term organic exists; however, it is simple to differentiate with a separation between the scientific and colloqial uses (as in velocity in common usage (Speed) and physics usage(Velocity)–see Velocity (disambiguation)).

Synthetic fertilizers, such as urea and urea formaldehyde, are organic in the sense of the organic chemistry definition of organic, can be supplied organically (agriculturally), but when manufactured as a pure chemical is not organic under organic certification standards

Naturally mined powdered limestone mined rock phosphate and sodium nitrate, are inorganic (in a chemical sense) in that they contain no carbon molecules, and are energetically-intensive to harvest, but are approved for organic agriculture in minimal amounts

The common thread that can be seen through these examples is that organic agriculture defines itself through minimal processing (e.g. via chemical energy such as petroleum—see Haber process), as well as being naturally-occurring (as is, or via natural biological processing such as the composting process).

Benefits of organic fertilizer

However, by their nature, organic fertilizers provide increased physical and biological storage mechanisms to soils, mitigating risks of over-fertilization. Organic fertilizer nutrient content, solubility, and nutrient release rates are typically much lower than mineral (inorganic) fertilizers. One study found that over a 140-day period, after 7 leachings:

  • Organic fertilizers had released between 25% and 60% of their nitrogen content
  • Controlled release fertilizers(CRFs) had a relatively constant rate of release
  • Soluble fertilizer released most of its nitrogen content at the first leaching

Disadvantages of organic fertilizer

It is difficult to chemically distinguish between urea of biological origin and those produced synthetically. Like inorganic fertilisers, it is possible to over-apply organic fertilizers if does not measure and distribute the required amounts according to the recommended amounts for the plot of land in question. Release of the nutrients may happen quite suddenly depending on the type of organic fertiliser used.

Because of their dilute concentration of nutrients, transport and application costs are typically much greater for organic than inorganic fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers from treated sewage, composts and sources can be quiet variable from one batch to the next. Unless each batch is tested the amounts of nutrient applied are not precisely known.

[edit] Environmental risks of fertilizer use

High application rates of nitrogen fertilizers in order to maximize crop yields, combined with the high solubilities of these fertilizers leads to increased leaching of nitrates into groundwater The use of ammonium nitrate in inorganic fertilizers is particularly damaging, as plants absorb ammonium ions preferentially over nitrate ions, while excess nitrate ions which are not absorbed dissolve (by rain or irrigation) into groundwater. Nitrate levels above 10 mg/L (10 ppm) in groundwater can cause ‘blue baby syndrome‘ (acquired methemoglobinemia), leading to hypoxia (which can lead to coma and death if not treated)

Nitrogen-containing inorganic fertilizers in the form of nitrate and ammonium also cause soil acidification

Eventually, nitrate-enriched groundwater makes its way into lakes, bays and oceans where it accelerates the growth of algae, disrupts the normal functioning of water ecosystems, and kills fish in a process called eutrophication (which may cause water to become cloudy and/or discolored—green, yellow, brown, or red). About half of all the lakes in the United States are now eutrophic, while the number of oceanic dead zones near inhabited coastlines are increasing.

As of 2006, the application of nitrogen fertilizer is being increasingly controlled in Britain and the United States. If eutrophication can be reversed, it may take decades before the accumulated nitrates in groundwater can be broken down by natural processes.

Storage and application of some nitrogen fertilizers in some weather or soil conditions can cause emissions of the greenhouse gas nitrous oxide (N2O). Ammonia gas (NH3) may be emitted following application of ‘inorganic’ fertilizers, or manure/slurry. Besides supplying nitrogen, ammonia can also increase soil acidity (lower pH, or “souring”). Excessive nitrogen fertilizer applications can also lead to pest problems by increasing the birth rate, longevity and overall fitness of certain pests.

The concentration of up to 100 mg/kg of cadmium in phosphate minerals (for example, minerals from Nauru and the Christmas islands) increases the contamination of soil with cadmium, for example in New Zealand. Uranium is another example of a contaminant often found in phosphate fertilizers; also, radioactive Polonium-210 contained in phosphate fertilizers is absorbed by the roots of plants and stored in its tissues. Tobacco derived from plants fertilzed by rock phosphates contains Polonium-210 which emits alpha radiation estimated to cause about 11,700 lung cancer deaths each year worldwide. 

For these reasons, it is recommended that knowledge of the nutrient content of the soil and nutrient requirements of the crop are carefully balanced with application of nutrients in inorganic fertilizer. This process is called nutrient budgeting. By careful monitoring of soil conditions, farmers can avoid wasting expensive fertilizers, and also avoid the potential costs of cleaning up any pollution created as a byproduct of their farming.

Hazard of over-fertilization

Fertilizer burn

Over-fertilization of a vital nutrient can be as detrimental as underfertilization. “Fertilizer burn” can occur when too much fertilizer is applied, resulting in a drying out of the roots and damage or even death of the plant. According to UC IPM, all organic fertilizers, and some specially-formulated inorganic fertilizers are classified as ’slow-release’ fertilizers, and therefore cannot cause nitrogen burn. Organic fertilizers are as likely to cause plant burn as inorganic fertilizers.

If excess nitrogen is present, some plants can exude the excess through their leaves in a process called guttation

Environmental toxicity of fertilizer

Toxic fertilizers are recycled industrial waste that introduce several classes of toxic materials into farm land, garden soils, and water streams. The consumption levels of toxic fertilizer are increasing lately in the U.S. from citizens who are purchasing the wrong chemicals for their gardens as well as choosing the wrong company to purchase it from.

This is leading to major environmental problems due to the fact of toxic waste being processed and planted into our land and water. The most common toxic elements in this type of fertilizer are mercury, lead, and arsenic.

Between 1990-1995, 600 companies from 44 different states sent 270 million pounds of toxic waste to farms and fertilizer companies across the country

According to the United States Food and Drug Administration:

“Current information indicates that only a relatively small percentage of fertilizers is manufactured using industrial wastes as ingredients, and that hazardous wastes are used as ingredients in only a small portion of waste-derived fertilizers.”

and

“[the] EPA has continually encouraged the beneficial reuse and recycling of industrial wastes.”

Heavy metal content of recycled fertilizer

Steel industry wastes, recycled into fertilizers for their high levels of zinc (essential to plant growth), wastes can include the following toxic metals:

Toxic organic compounds

Dioxins, polychlorinated dibenzo-p-dioxins (PCDDs), and polychlorinated dibenzofurans (PCDFs) have been detected in fertilizers and soil amendments

Global issues

We throw away nutrients for our plants in underground sewage systems. We do this in such a way that pollutes underground water tables. Then we buy manufactured “nutrients” for our plants which aren’t as good as what we threw away. This is modern day wastewater “technology”.
Michael Reynolds – Earthship Vol.2: Systems and Components

The growth of the world’s population to its current figure has only been possible through intensification of agriculture associated with the use of fertilizers.There is an impact on the sustainable consumption of other global resources as a consequence.

The use of fertilizers on a global scale emits significant quantities of greenhouse gas into the atmosphere. Emissions come about through the use of:

By changing processes and procedures, it is possible to mitigate some, but not all, of these effects on anthropogenic climate change.

The nitrogen-rich compounds found in fertilizer run-off is the primary cause of a serious depletion of oxygen in many parts of the ocean, especially in coastal zones; the resulting lack of dissolved oxygen is greatly reducing the ability of these areas to sustain oceanic fauna. Anoxic respiration by bacteria in the eutrophicated marine zones also releases nitrous oxide to the atmosphere. Through the increasing use of nitrogen fertiliser, which is added at a rate of 120 million tons per year presently to the already existing amount of reactive nitrogen, nitrous oxide has become the third most important greenhouse gas after carbon dioxide and methane, with a global warming potential 296 times larger than an equal mass of carbon dioxide, while it also contributes to stratospheric ozone depletion.

The mining of phosphorus for fertiliser uses leads to the depletion of the global (fossil) phosphate resources. It is unclear whether peak phosphorus has already been passed or has yet to come.

See also

Was that enough info for you? Hope this helped you on your journey to a perfect garden! 1-866-PGS-GROW

Tuesday, July 21st, 2009 | Author: Invited Guest

How do you make your plant nutrient solution? Chances are you pour your nutrients into your reservoir, stir them around and then measure your PPM and PH and adjust accordingly. This is the minimal one should be doing! Check out this great article from Maximum Yield and Bob Taylor. It goes into great detail on how to precisely dose your plants!

Dosing Procedures for Nutrients and Additives

Nutrient performance is far more complex than simply using a quality brand. Although growers typically blame the nutrient for poor plant performance, the failure to follow basic dosing procedures is the cause of many problems.

Step 1.

Volume of nutrient solution: As a guide, allocate at least 2.5 gallons of nutrient solution per large plant (e.g. tomato), or around a ½ gallon for smaller plants (e.g. lettuce).

This is especially important for re-circulating systems because larger nutrient volumes will undergo smaller changes in concentration (EC) and pH. In hot weather, insufficient nutrient volume could result in EC soaring to toxic levels, which could seriously damage your plants. Larger nutrient volumes will also reduce how frequently top-up water is needed.

Step 2.

Dosage rates: The dose rate depends upon your growing medium (soil, expanded clay, etc) and the phase of growth – seedling, vegetative or flowering. Refer to the manufacturer’s dosage chart.

Step 3.

Add the majority of water before adding nutrients and additives: Never mix nutrients and additives together in small amounts of water.

With two and three-part nutrients, the “parts” are kept separate for good reason. When these parts are mixed together in concentrated form (or in too little water), a white precipitate will form – as is often seen in nutrient reservoirs (Figure 3.6b and 3.1).

Step 4.

Thoroughly stir the nutrient: Always stir immediately after adding each nutrient and additive (or even top-up water). This eliminates regions where less soluble nutrient species are concentrated. It also removes regions of extreme pH (either high or low), thereby preventing the destabilization of nutrients that are unstable outside of the pH window of 5.0 to 6.5.
Step 5.

pH control: Do not leave pH unchecked for a long period of time. Quickly add all nutrients and additives then, after thorough mixing, immediately check pH and adjust if necessary. Allowing pH to rise above 6.5 is a common cause of white precipitate in nutrient reservoirs.

Step 6.

Maintaining nutrient concentration: (Does not apply to ‘run-to-waste’ systems). As plants grow they simultaneously remove both water and nutrients from the nutrient solution. This may cause the nutrient strength to either increase or decrease – depending on which is being consumed at the faster rate. Typically the nutrient concentration tends to increase, especially in hot weather because water loss can be excessive due to both plant uptake and evaporation. Therefore, ensure the water level is kept relatively constant. When this is done, the concentration or conductivity (EC) will be relatively predictable. (Concentration will slowly decrease as the plants consume nutrients). Check the EC about every second or third day and if necessary add sufficient nutrient to stay within the target range.

NOTE: High salinity (salty) make-up water may cause EC to increase.

Step 7.

Further notes:
+ Beware of high pH additives: The best dosing technique to adopt with additives that increase pH significantly (silica, PK additives) is to add them to the water and adjust the pH down to 6.0 prior to adding the nutrient.

The less preferred but simplest alternative is to pre-dilute the additive in a separate volume of raw water. Then once this solution is added to the nutrient solution, quickly lower the pH to below 6.5. Note: A white cloudy precipitate (calcium sulphate) may form where the pre-diluted additive initially merges with the nutrient solution. However, because the initial particle size of the precipitate is small, it will usually re-dissolve if the pH is immediately re-adjusted (Figure 3.6a).

+ Two and three part nutrients: Avoid “roughly measuring” out the nutrient dose – always add the correct amount of each part. In the case of a two part, ‘under’ dosing part ‘B’ for example, could cause a deficiency in over half the nutrients required (i.e. P, K, S and all of the trace elements – except iron).

Thursday, July 16th, 2009 | Author: Pete

As a part of our commitment to educating our customers and ourselves, we present our third video podcast. This is an ongoing educational series on indoor gardening and more… This time around we have JD from Technaflora Plant Nutrients sharing some seriously valuable information with us. Not just about Technaflora products either. He goes into detail about plant food chemistry in general. Big Thanks to Technaflora and JD for everything.

Part 1Part 2Part 3

Thursday, July 09th, 2009 | Author: Invited Guest
banner-sunflower
Dr. Merle H. Jensen is Assistant Dean for Sponsored Research and Associate Director of the Arizona Agricultural Experiment Station at the University of Arizona and Professor of Plant Science. He is a graduate of California State Polytechnic, Cornell and Rutgers Universities. He has been involved with numerous programs for research and development of new methods of food production, including serving as team leader to develop the agricultural systems for “The Land” at EPCOT, Walt Disney World and helped researchers at NASA.

Dr. Jensen is one of America’s leading agricultural scientists on the subject of controlled environment agriculture and future opportunitiesfor food production. He has published nearly 100 research and technical articles, and his research and development projects have been featured in many popular publications and television programs.

Boris,

Just a quick note to let you know we now have several clients using Hygrozyme on a regular basis. Hygrozyme (H/Z). When used for Hydroponic Lettuce Production, results in faster growth rates with reportedly improved shelf life. These are observations coming from our growers. Further more, Hygrozyme is a great additive for crops experiencing root disease problems – H/Z seems to arrest the development of the disease, and continued application has seen crops recover from root disease problems and prevented the re-occurrence of the disease on younger crops growing within the same system. Two most memorable example of success with H/Z include:

1: An experienced hydroponic lettuce grower, who has been growing hydroponic lettuce for over 15 years and generally has no problems, found his crops suddenly wilting and dying from pythium and other root diseases. After having tried various products including chlorine, peroxide and some ‘unnamed products’, this grower was running out of options. I suggested the use of Hygrozyme. The grower has several tanks with about 4000 liters of recalculating nutrient solution, each tank supporting about 15,000 lettuce plants. An initial dose of 4 liters of H/Z was added to the tank, and the further dose of 200ml per day was added. The grower called my back to say ‘Hygrozyme is really amazing. It stopped the problem with the lettuces, and there are new roots coming out everywhere. I’ve never seen a product work so well, and I will happily recommend it for you. If you have any customers who have any doubts about this product, you can ask them to give me a call so I can discuss it grower to grower. It really is a good product!”

2. Another commercial hydroponic lettuce grower experienced some miss-hap – some how the roots on his recently planted (4 days) lettuce seedlings had ‘gone down’, the roots had all turned brown and things were looking grim. This concerned grower called me, and we decided to apply 4 liters of Hygrozyme to 4000 liters of nutrient solution, (servicing about 15,000 plants), followed by an additional 200ml Hygrozyme per day. Again, the results were very pleasing. New white roots had developed within two days after application of H/Z, and a lettuce crop which had appeared to have almost completely failed in the very early stages, had recovered and grown into a crop the grower was proud to call his own. “The Hygrozyme is good stuff. It may be a bit pricey, but when it saves your crop its very cheap!”.

A very important point to note with these success stories is Hygrozyme, being an organic product, presents itself as a safe and effective means of protecting the crop, and removed the risk of problems associated with chemical residues where alternative chemical remedies may be considered.

Other hydroponic lettuce growers have had great results with maintaining continuity of supply through the winter months. Most hydroponic lettuce production in Australia is performed outdoors and as a result, crops are exposed to temperatures as low as 0 to -2 degrees Celsius, even cooler in some areas, leading to a dramatic decrease in growth rates, and subsequently lower production. Hygrozyme, when used at 1 liter per 1000 liters of nutrient solution, has given winter crops a significant boost, and has shortened the harvest interval in the winter period by two weeks. Similar results have also been obtained with hydroponically grown bok choi.

More recently, we have observed a great result with a hydroponic strawberry grower. Hydroponically grown strawberry plants treated with Hygrozyme at 1.5ml per litre of nutrient solution showed superior root development compared with untreated plants. The Hygrozyme treated plants were larger with larger leaves and larger fruit – but furthermore, the larger fruit were also significantly of better quality with respect to taste and shelf-life when compared to untreated plants.

We have also observed, in our own nursery, the strawberry cuttings/runners treated with H/Z immediately after planting, developed roots much more rapidly, and were saleable 2 weeks before untreated plants.

There is obviously something very beneficial to plants in the Hygrozyme formula delivering increased growth rates, better shelf-life and disease-shielding benefits, and also has the added bonus of being an organic product.

Boris, we have some scientific data that we should be able to forward to you in the next month. By then we should also have results carried out with Hygrozyme trails on greenhouse capsicums, tomatoes and cucumbers.

Dr. John Vella

PHDAgrBSc Agr (Hons)
Leppington Speedy Seedlings & Supplies Pty Ltd
PO Box 167
35 Riley Road
Leppington NSW 2179

This stuff is fantastic guys, particularly for rooting cuttings, and vegetative plants. Flowering plants will benefit also. So many reputable sources have confirmed the science of Hygrozyme. I have seen it react negatively with guano’s so be aware of that potential conflict. The “proven success” part of Hygrozymes marketing is the best part. They have gone through extensive testing on their product, and it really does work AND it’s organic! 1-866-PGS-GROW

hygrozyme-ad-en

Thanks to Hygrozyme for the article – Original Page Here

Friday, July 03rd, 2009 | Author: Pete

Happy Aloha Friday gang! Ok, we have had allot of fun this week with videos on off topics, social activism etc… Today we are going to get hardcore and talk about some seriously advanced techniques on how to approach your garden in a highly technical and scientific way. Allot of these things have not been covered in previous blog posts, so I will go slow but I will also include links to help you gain knowledge. These are all things any serious gardener should know.

Water Temperature

liquidsandtempseekcommonlevelOne of the most overlooked issues in a garden is the water temperature. Imagine how you like to bathe in water then apply that to your plants. If that water is too cold it can create stress and wilting, if its too hot you have a myriad of other issues that can arise. Also plant nutrients tend to work best at certain ranges. Be aware of how cold or how hot your plant water is. Room temp is always the best bet unless you have a really hot room :) Ideal temps for hydro is 18 to 27 degrees C. Try experimenting with temperatures and see for yourself the effects. Do some research, the temp. of your water greatly effects the amount of oxygen levels in your water which in turn greatly effects the amount of growth your plant has. Always try and give your plants the correct temperature water and you will see better results.

PPM / EC

tri_meterIf your not already using a PPM or EC measurement device on your plants water, your only guessing that you have dosed your water with the necessary amount of food. PPM stands for “parts per million” and it is a way to determine the amount of dissolved solids in a solution. EC stands for “electro conductivity” and it measures the amount of electric current the solution is capable of carrying. Both of these standards can tell you a tremendous amount about your plants and the water your feeding them. PPM is great for knowing how much nutrient is available in your solution for the plants, in general We recommend to everyone to keep your ppm below 1000ppm unless you have learned how to give your plants more then that. The EC can tell you how much nutrient is available in a solution too, but more importantly, the EC tells you something much more valuable. The EC of the water AFTER you water your plants is the telltale variable for success. If the EC of your water goes down after you water your plants, then the plants are absorbing nutrient from the solution, if the EC goes up, then you know that you are giving your plants too much food. Remember EC is measuring the amount of electricity capable of being carried in the water, the higher that number is the more nutrients are available in your water, so if the EC is fluctuating, then your know you have metabolic response occurring in your plants. A sure sign of trouble is an EC that continues to get higher and higher after each watering. The great thing about this technique is you can diagnose a serious nutrient issue and resolve it before its a problem, and it makes determining if you have nutrient burn or a deficiency an easy task. STOP GUESSING !! How many times have you just guessed at what your plants problems were and ended up overdosing or under dosing your plants?

Understanding whats going on with your plants is so crucial and so overlooked by most gardeners. So many people are happy as long as their plants are not dead and as long as they get “something”. This is fear based gardening and unfortunately too many of us suffer from it. Your afraid to give more food, in case it will burn them, and you don’t want to back off the food, because you don’t want yellowing or worse. Even EC and PPM can’t tell you everything. There are several other factors to examine in your quest to be a scientist in your garden. Take it to the next level and try everything availible to you today to make your plants better!

PH – Potential of Hydrogen

ph_test_kitI’m sure you all know about PH, it is the amount of acid or alkalinity in your water. That is the amount of acid ( lower PH levels 5.7 – 2.0 ) and the amount of Base ( higher PH levels 6.0 – 9.0 ) your water contains. PH is super important as I’m sure you guys all know, but if your constantly adjusting your waters PH with up and down solution, you are setting yourself up for slippery slope. Ideal PH ranges in general for both hydro and soil applications are around 5.7 – 7.0. Most nutrient companies these days have buffered their food to work within a broad range of PH ranges and adding up and/or down to correct levels actually makes elements in the solution “drop out” leading to a myriad of other potential problems. Always try to resolve your PH issues with either adding more water to raise your PH or adding more nutrient to lower it. I watch people come into the store and buy bottle after bottle of PH up and down and then come in later and ask why did my crop fail? I’m not saying that you should never adjust your PH, I’m just saying avoid constantly adjusting it and when in doubt, don’t over use any chemical, restart fresh and get it right with the least amount of everything. Seriously fluctuating PH levels after watering is another sure sign of trouble down the way. You want your water to be as PH stable as possible, and by using less of everything, you will achieve this.

Now sure, PPM / EC and PH readings are all more advanced horticultural techniques, and if you have never been aware of these things then you have just received a nice amount of valuable knowledge. However, I would like to take this Aloha Friday post even further. Get ready to learn how to really understand whats going on with your plants.

Brix / Refractometers

800px-refractometerHow can you tell if a plant is truly growing to its full potential other then watching it turn green and form fruit or flowers? The answer is with a refractometer. This is a device that allows one to measure the amount of sugars in a given plant. You take a daily measure of your plants brix levels and if the sugar levels are going up then you know your plants are turning light into sugars and then into fruit, flowers or leaf. If your plant is not increasing in sugar production, then you know your need to make some adjustments. Wine and other fruit farmers use brix refractometers to measure the exact amount of sugars before a harvest, allowing them to get there product to market with the perfect amount of sweetness, not too much not too little. You too can control your harvests to this high degree of refinement. Even with crops that are concerned with essential oil and fragrance etc.. Everyone interested in growing better plants will benefit from a refractometer. I personally suggest this traditional handheld refractometer. We will have these available at our stores soon.

Basically guys, the more you educate yourself and use these tools, the better your harvests will be, both in quality and quantity. Have a fantastic weekend and try to apply some of these techniques in your garden and take it to new heights! ALOHA