Here at PGS we really try to balance our product lines with an abundance of organic and sustainable products, from organic nutrients to sustainably harvested coco and soil products. The art and science of Permaculture has always inspired us and we pay tribute however we can. On this rainy and windy Wednesday we thought it would be nice to share some background on Permaculture with you. Thanks to wikipedia for providing the following information.

Mollison and Holmgren

In the mid 1970s, Australians Bill Mollison and David Holmgren started to develop ideas about stable agricultural systems. This was a result of rapid growth of destructive industrial-agricultural methods. They saw that these methods were poisoning the land and water, reducing biodiversity, and removing billions of tons of topsoil from previously fertile landscapes. They announced their permaculture” approach with the publication of Permaculture One in 1978.

The term permaculture initially meant “permanent agriculture” but was quickly expanded to also stand for “permanent culture” as it was seen that social aspects were integral to a truly sustainable system.

Observation develops design—Termite mounds inspire biomimicry for passive climate control in modern housing

After Permaculture One, Mollison and Holmgren further refined and developed their ideas by designing hundreds of permaculture sites and organizing this information into more detailed books. Mollison lectured in over 80 countries and taught his two-week Design Course to many hundreds of students. By the early 1980s, the concept had broadened from agricultural systems design towards complete, sustainable human habitats.

By the mid 1980s, many of the students had become successful practitioners and had themselves begun teaching the techniques they had learned. In a short period of time permaculture groups, projects, associations, and institutes were established in over one hundred countries. In 1991 a four-part Television documentary by ABC productions called “The Global Gardener” showed permaculture applied to a range of worldwide situations, bringing the concept to a much broader public. Excerpts are available online through YouTube.

Further developments

Permaculture has developed from its Australian origins into an international movement. English permaculture teacher Patrick Whitefield, author of The Earth Care Manual and Permaculture in a Nutshell, suggests that there are now two strands of permaculture: Original and Design permaculture.

Original permaculture attempts to closely replicate nature by developing edible ecosystems which closely resemble their wild counterparts.

Design permaculture takes the working connections at use in an ecosystem and uses them as its basis. The end result may not look as natural as a forest garden, but still respects ecological principles. Through close observation of natural energies and flow patterns efficient design systems can be developed. This has become known as Natural Systems Design. (Dr. M Millington and A Sampson-Kelly)

Elements of design

Mature species on a keyline irrigation channel, ‘Orana’ Farm Temperate Victoria, Australia

Permaculture principles draw heavily on the practical application of ecological theory to analyze the characteristics and potential relationships between design elements.

Each element of a design is carefully analyzed in terms of its needs, outputs, and properties. For example chickens need water, moderated microclimate and food, producing meat, eggs, feathers and manure and can help break up soil hardpan.

Design elements are then assembled in relation to one another so that the products of one element feed the needs of adjacent elements. Synergy between design elements is achieved while minimizing waste and the demand for human labor or energy. Exemplary permaculture designs evolve over time, and can become extremely complex mosaics of conventional and inventive cultural systems that produce a high density of food and materials with minimal input.

While techniques and cultural systems are freely borrowed from organic agriculture, sustainable forestry, horticulture, agroforestry, and the land management systems of indigenous peoples, permaculture’s fundamental contribution to the field of ecological design is the development of a concise set of broadly applicable organizing principles that can be transferred through a brief intensive training.

Modern permaculture

Modern permaculture is a system design tool. It is a way of:

1. looking at a whole system or problem;
2. observing how the parts relate;
3. planning to mend sick systems by applying ideas learned from long-term sustainable working systems;
4. seeing connections between key parts.

In permaculture, practitioners learn from the working systems of nature to plan to fix the damaged landscapes of human agricultural and city systems. This thinking applies to the design of a kitchen tool as easily to the re-design of a farm.

Permaculture practitioners apply it to everything deemed necessary to build a sustainable future. Commonly, “Initiatives … tend to evolve from strategies that focus on efficiency (for example, more accurate and controlled uses of inputs and minimization of waste) to substitution (for example, from more to less disruptive interventions, such as from biocides to more specific biological controls and other more benign alternatives) to redesign (fundamental changes in the design and management of the operation) (Hill & MacRae 1995, Hill et al. 1999).” “Permaculture is about helping people make redesign choices: setting new goals and a shift in thinking that affects not only their home but their actions in the workplace, borrowings and investments” (A Sampson-Kelly and Michel Fanton 1991). Examples include the design and employment of complex transport solutions, optimum use of natural resources such as sunlight, and “radical design of information-rich, multi-storey polyculture systems” (Mollison & Slay 1991).

“This progression generally involves a shift in the nature of one’s dependence — from relying primarily on universal, purchased, imported, technology-based interventions to more specific locally available knowledge and skill-based ones. This usually eventually also involves fundamental shifts in world-views, senses of meaning, and associated lifestyles (Hill 1991).” “My experience is that although efficiency and substitution initiatives can make significant contributions to sustainability over the short term, much greater longer-term improvements can only be achieved by redesign strategies; and, furthermore, that steps need to be taken at the outset to ensure that efficiency and substitution strategies can serve as stepping stones and not barriers to redesign…” (Hill 2000)

Core values

Permaculture on an organic farm on the Swabian Mountains in Germany.

Permaculture is a broad-based and holistic approach that has many applications to all aspects of life. At the heart of permaculture design and practice is a fundamental set of ‘core values’ or ethics which remain constant whatever a person’s situation, whether they are creating systems for town planning or trade; whether the land they care for is only a windowbox or an entire forest. These ‘ethics’ are often summarized as;

• Earthcare – recognising that Earth is the source of all life (and is possibly itself a living entity — see Gaia theory), that Earth is our valuable home, and that we are a part of Earth, not apart from it.
• Peoplecare – supporting and helping each other to change to ways of living that do not harm ourselves or the planet, and to develop healthy societies.
• Fairshare (or placing limits on consumption) – ensuring that Earth’s limited resources are used in ways that are equitable and wise.

Modern thought about permaculture began with the issue of sustainable food production. It started with the belief that for people to feed themselves sustainably, they need to move away from reliance on industrialized agriculture. Where industrial farms use technology powered by fossil fuels (such as gasoline, diesel and natural gas), and each farm specializes in producing high yields of a single crop, permaculture stresses the value of low inputs and diverse crops. The model for this was an abundance of small-scale market and home gardens for food production, and a main issue was food miles.

Design innovation

The core of permaculture has always been in supplying a design toolkit for human habitation. This toolkit helps the designer to model a final design based on an observation of how ecosystems interact. A simple example of this is how the Sun interacts with a plant by providing it with energy to grow. This plant may then be pollinated by bees or eaten by deer. These may disperse seed to allow other plants to grow into tall trees and provide shelter to these creatures from the wind. The bees may provide food for birds and the trees provide roosting for them. The tree’s leaves fall and rot, providing food for small insects and fungus. Such a web of intricate connections allows a diverse population of plant life and animals to survive by giving them food and shelter. One of the innovations of permaculture design was to appreciate the efficiency and productivity of natural ecosystems, to use natural energies (wind, gravity, solar, fire, wave and more) and seek to apply this to the way human needs for food and shelter are met. One of the most notable proponents of this design system has been David Holmgren, who based much of his permaculture innovation on zone analysis.

OBREDIM design methodology

OBREDIM is an acronym for observation, boundaries, resources, evaluation, design, implementation and maintenance.

• Observation allows you first to see how the site functions within itself, to gain an understanding of its initial relationships. Some recommend a year-long observation of a site before anything is planted. During this period all factors, such as lay of the land, natural flora and so forth, can be brought into the design. A year allows the site to be observed through all seasons, although it must be realized that, particularly in temperate climates, there can be substantial variations between years.
• Boundaries refer to physical ones as well as to those neighbors might place, for example.
• Resources include the people involved, funding, as well as what can be grown or produced in the future.
• Evaluation of the first three will then allow one to prepare for the next three. This is a careful phase of taking stock of what is at hand to work with.
• Design is a creative and intensive process, and must stretch the ability to see possible future synergetic relationships.
• Implementation is literally the ground-breaking part of the process when digging and shaping of the site occurs.
• Maintenance is then required to keep the site at a healthy optimum, making minor adjustments as necessary. Good design will preclude the need for any major adjustment.

Hey guys, its been a cold winter, and it looks like spring has come a little early. It feels so good too! It also feels great to let everyone know that our end of year inventory is over and we are again fully stocked with all the essentials you need for your grow room. We are also gearing up for what is anticipated as the biggest grow season ever. Viva 2010, with outdoor and indoor projects being taken on in extremely aggressive levels, its super exciting for us to be able to provide for all the Sonoma County growers and beyond who are getting involved. We have -

• Traditional soils, organic blends, soilless blends, rockwool, and coco pots ready to go.
• Grow lights, electronic ballasts, magnetic ballasts, reflectors, high output fluorescent systems, LED Grow lights, replacement bulbs.
• Hydro trays, containers, smart pots, complete hydro setups.
• Complete organic and hydroponic nutrient lines – General Hydroponics, General Organics, House and Garden, Cutting Edge, Technaflora and tons of grow and bloom enhancers and accelerators.
• Carbon filters of every size and shape
• Wall, pedestal and exhaust fans and blowers of every shape and size
• Ducting, clamps, foil tape, flanges, reducers, extenders, splitters, splicers
• Co2 generators, controllers and parts
• Organic and chemical pest control products
• Master light controllers, Environmental controllers, High temp. shut off devices
• Water purification systems, accessories and replacement filters
• Ready to grow, self contained Darkrooms
• Valves, elbows, tees, custom hydro fittings, replacement sprayers and misters
• Full service repair dept. complete with loaner ballasts
• Full time accredited botanist

We love to serve and provide the best advice and products available in the indoor/hydroponic/organic gardening industry, give our friendly grow experts a call today and let us know how we can help you. 1-866-PGS-GROW

General Organics In Stock

Aloha Friday Everyone! How is the state of your organic gardening? Are you using organic plant food? If not (shame on you JK) it’s a great time to try a couple plants or a whole round with General Hydroponics new organic plant food line, simply called General Organics. This stuff has a serious buzz going around it right now. At the trade show a few months back, GH was handing out samples and allot of us around here have had a chance to try it since then. Everyone unanimously ruled that GO is a great nutrient line. We have yet to try it in a hydroponic scenario, but in soil, soil less/coco mixes and compost based, outdoor gardening, GO kicked ass. Solid flavor and yield is what was reported the most. Usually a smaller crop is what people expect when using organic plant food, but I think this is a great example of another organic nutrient (like our very own Local Harvest) that can really pump out a bumper crop if you sincerely try it. We are super excited to finally have all three stores fully stocked with the full line of GO products. We wanted to test it out first before we unleashed it on to you all. This is something I don’t think most other stores do. Come on in and grab some today and see what all the talk is about for yourself!

Happy Aloha Friday PGS Blog Readers. Whether or not global warming is real or just a fear based phenomenon, no one can deny the fact that we are all experiencing  climate changes locally and worldwide. It doesn’t matter if you grow indoor or outside, these changes  effect all of us and our growing habits. One of the most obvious and noticeable things so far is water prices, shortages, water quality, and the politics behind it all. Growing crops that use heavy amounts of water is already becoming a little more costly then it did say 10 years ago. Fast forward another 10 years from now, and what do you expect water prices and availability to do? All trends and analysis, articles, studies, hypothesis, and science say that we will have less and less water as time goes by and it will be more and more expensive as the years pass. This is not just global warming hype or conspiracy theory, if you think your going to always have that fresh water right at the tap for the same $$ that you pay now, you are kidding yourself. As resources get squandered and sold like product, we all will need to find ways to grow more with less water. I found an article about a couple new strains of rice that only need a fraction of the water. When I lived in Hawaii, I met Coffee growers and Grape growers that did the same. All of this makes me consider that we need some new strains of drought resistant varieties that don’t have such serious water demands, yet still yield a bounty of quality and quantity. Experiment with some of your strains and see which ones perform well with less water. I also know from my 5 hour seminar with Paul Stamets, that fungi, both on the top soil or medium, as well as inoculated in your medium helps with this process. He told us about beneficial viruses that work with fungi to colonize root zones and coat roots with a waxy substance that keeps them from getting stressed under drought conditions and allows plants to thrive even though they are getting less water then usual. I strongly encourage everyone to explore these methods of water conservation and control. I know it’s possible to get bonifide bumper crops even though your using less water. Many people come into the stores wanting to talk about how much less water they use by growing with hydroponic methods. This is an interesting conversation for me. I used to grow hydro, strictly ebb and flow. I also have tried Aeroflow, Waterfarms, Rainforests, and drip emission. If you always top off your res, then yes I would say hydroponic techniques does use less water then traditional soil/ container gardening, but I have never met one grower, myself included that didn’t toss out the water in your res after its been in there a couple weeks. While topping it off works, it often leads to problems over time, and all hydroponic recipes call for a fresh change of your nutrient solution at least every 10-14 days. What do you do with this extra water…. Well if your like 98 percent of all hydro growers, you flush it down the drain, wasting 1000s of gallons over a lifetime. Dumping your old nutrient water into your yard or garden is bad for the environment over time and can pollute ground water supply. All of this is leading to my point which is, USE LESS WATER. If you dump your old nutrient solution each time, then you will use less water doing a drain to waste or container to waste technique. As I type these words, I realize once again how vital organic gardening is, and how the microbial dynamics of your garden play such a crucial role in all metabolic functions and in obtaining the perfect “Bumper Crop” while being sustainable.

Rice Today’s July-September 2009 edition features the development of drought-tolerant rice and other research the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) and its collaborators are doing to curb the devastating effects of drought.

With some degree of water shortages predicted to affect 15-20 million hectares of irrigated rice within 25 years, smart crop management and even genetically modified rice may also play a role in helping farmers cope with the crisis.

Rice Today also reports that in Uganda rice production has increased 2.5 times from 2004 to 2008 through government initiatives, private investment, and farmer support.

Across the other side of the planet rice production, consumption, and prospects in Latin America are being explored. Rice is being promoted to consumers in Mexico and Central America and in Brazil production is improving.

In light of further boosting production, IRRI takes a look at some practical solutions to help reduce grain losses and improve grain quality during postharvest. Between 15-20% of rice grains are often lost at this stage because of unsuitable drying techniques, pests, and other factors.

Original Page Here

Here we are in 2010 guys… WOW we are officially living in the future. Since making every crop a bumper crop is a goal here this year, I have a tremendous article that will get us on our way…..
So you want to get bigger yields from your crop? Here are seven grow tips (in no particular order), that when adhered to, will help to ensure the healthiest and most vibrant crops possible in your growing environment. These growing secrets are the culmination of decades of growing experience from the author and countless other dedicated growers spanning the globe over. Follow them closely; they have worked for others and they can work for you.
One: Keep it optimal.
Technologically-advanced products are accessible to consumers making it effortless to supply bright light to plants indoors with HID (High Intensity Discharge) lighting. These crop lighting systems are available in various wattages for different levels of light output relative to the area needing illumination. Bigger wattage equals more light. However, it’s extremely important to consider the level of heat created by all of the lighting components.

The amount of heat produced by HID lighting systems is tremendous and must be properly managed to maintain optimal temperatures in the growing environment. Hot and dry environments will really stress your plants out, causing them to produce poorly. In the majority of indoor growing situations the plants will yield better and be of higher quality when the temperature does not reach above 85°F at the tops of the plants when the lights are on.

Temperatures above 90°F, in most situations, are a huge contributor to reductions in yield and overall crop quality in indoor gardens. The heat forces work at a high metabolic rate, meaning all the biological processes are accelerated. Couple this with high intensities of light, nutrients and air movement and you are working the plant at its upper limits. What tends to happen is that one factor, for example, CO2 for the leaves or oxygen for the roots, is lacking while other variables are driven at their maximum. This is like driving a high performance car at top speed while the engine is lacking oil; although everything else is working great, the car will grind to a halt and will possibly experience irreversible damage because one important component is lacking. The same goes for your crop. Do what is necessary to keep the optimal temperature, even if it means using less light intensity in the growing environment.

Measure Twice, Pour Once: Even when measuring organic nutrients, it’s critical to know exactly the right amount to add to reach the desired nutrient strength in the right phase of growth.

Two: You are what you overeat.
Growers have access to some pretty amazing crop feeding technologies. We all get excited about using them, although in our quest to give our plants the best, we can sometimes “kill them with kindness.” It’s important to keep a handle on the overall feeding strengths that we apply to our crops, and also the ratios of the different types of ingredients that are found in various products. Most of the time, the dilution rates on crop product labels are recommended for stand-alone applications, as the manufacturer cannot possibly account for everything and anything else you may be applying to your crops. For example, the levels of base nutrients, additives, biological inoculants, etc. all contribute to the overall feeding strengths, and how the plant will react. Furthermore, the quality of the growing environment itself will affect how suitable a feeding strength for the plants will be.

Growers often discuss feeding strengths in terms of PPM (parts per million), while EC (electrical conductivity) is probably the best unit of measurement, as it is universal from one region to another. PPM is not universal, as different conversion factors are used by different measuring equipment manufacturers (PPMs are actually conversions from EC, the base measurement).

In most growing scenarios, it’s rare for there to be any need to feed over 2.0 EC. Follow a complete feeding program from a reputable manufacturer, as piecing together your own feeding program can be a real hit and miss affair. Even when following a manufacturer’s complete program, it still pays to monitor your feeding strengths using TDS/EC testers. Remember after mixing all of your nutrients into the water, you can always add more fresh water to dilute the nutrient solution to lower strengths if necessary.

Over-fertilized plants produce poorly, are prone to insects and diseases and usually the taste and smell is less than desirable. Besides watching your overall feed strengths, and applying nutrients in a “feed, feed, water” regimen on soilless mediums, flushing the growing medium every couple of weeks can help keep nutrients from building-up and causing problems.
Three: The plant is boss.
If your plants aren’t ready for the next growing phase or increased feeding strengths, you should wait. Following recommendations is always a good idea, however, to do so blindly is not. Just because a chart says after three weeks that you should “flip” the plants into flower doesn’t mean that you should. Some strains will grow very little once flowering has started, so ask yourself if they will be at the right size for a healthy harvest at maturity.

Conversely, some strains and plant varieties grow leaps and bounds, upwards of +300 per cent, once flowering is initiated. With these varieties, the wise grower can be sure they are flowering early enough, so that they will not out-grow the space available in the garden.

Determining the right size to flower can take a couple of trials to get right, especially if you are working with a plant variety that you are less familiar with, or perhaps a strain within a plant variety that you have not yet cultivated. Do some research, and ask around. Growers who have experience with a particular strain or variety may be willing to share some insights. Note that hydroponically-grown plants will usually develop at a faster rate than soil grown plants, although overall yields are often similar.
Four: Simplify.
In an effort to make ourselves better growers, we sometimes pull the mad scientist cap on a little too far. It’s a great idea to experiment from crop to crop, however, you need to be realistic about how many variables you experiment with to really determine the cause and effect of particular inputs and practices.

With nutrients, for example, if you are not following a complete program, or if you’re using a tiered grower level system, don’t add too many new products at once; especially if they are not on the manufacturer’s crop feed chart. To really see how a particular product performs, you need to run at least one cycle with that being the only variable changed.

Same goes with the environment. If you are running experiments to find the optimal temperature for your strain in flowering, it’s not a good idea to switch from 1000 watt lights to 600 watt lights and turn around and say that one temperature is working better than another.

Set-up your grow with a “fool-proof” system, whether in terms of nutrient programs or an optimal growing environment. From there, consider changing one variable at a time per crop to really “dial-in” your growing environment accurately and precisely. Otherwise, you can only guess at any changes you see in the plants, for better or worse.
Five: Put some love into it.
Most of us get into growing indoors because we have a passion for growing things, or we are especially fond of the plants that we are cultivating. If taking care of your plants is not much more than an obligatory chore for you, don’t expect too much back from your plants in return; they will feel the same way about you!

Even growers who start out with a very strong passion can find themselves treating growing as a job after several years. It should never feel like a job. Perhaps it’s time to take a break from growing, or hire a reliable crop-sitter for your garden. You have to be in touch with your plants as often as possible. Plants are honest; they will ask for exactly what they want, and won’t hesitate to tell you what they don’t like. However, if you are not observing or “listening” to these signs because you are in a hurry to get in and out of the garden, you will overlook some very important “suggestions” from your plants, and your yields and crop quality will suffer. Basically, you will never be able to realize the full potential of your garden. After all, you only get out of it what you put into it, and that’s not just reserved to your gardens.
Six: Use a high quality light reflector.
If you are growing with HID (High Intensity Discharge) lighting, use a high quality, engineered lamp reflector to ensure that your garden receives the maximum number of lumens, in an even and consistent spread. There is no sense in having one high-yielding plant directly under the reflector, while the surrounding plants produce poorly due to uneven light distribution.

Poorly designed lamp reflectors may look good to the human eye, although their performance in re-directing light from the lamp to the garden can be extremely poor. Hot spots can be created in the garden canopy when a reflector is not re-directing light evenly, for example over an area of three square feet or four square feet. Lesser quality reflectors may provide intense light directly beneath the lamp, although they do not do a good job of spreading the light intensity to reach the plants on the outside of the garden canopy.

There are some tremendous differences in the ability of one reflector over another to re-distribute the light intensity evenly, in a desirable lighting foot-print for your garden. To ensure that you are making the most use of the lights you have, look for reflectors that offer a photometric chart that illustrate their performance. Use the right reflector for the right wattage lamp; sometimes mogul extensions may be required when working with lower wattage lamps, and finally, invest in a light meter; it will tell you exactly what intensities the plants are receiving, whether right under the reflector or towards the outside edges of the garden.
Seven: Add some life.
Whether you garden hydroponically, organically, in soil or soilless mediums, your crop will benefit greatly from introductions of bio-active and bio-available substances rather than just providing flat-lined, synthetic NPK nutrients.
Plants have evolved in an environment as diverse as the earth itself, so they have learned to make excellent use of all of the building blocks in nature provided to them. Growers who add another dimension in crop nutrition through the application of bio-active nutrients and supplements are often rewarded with higher yields, noticeably higher crop quality and fewer problems such as insects and diseases.

Freshly brewed aerobic teas are an excellent source of nutrients and beneficial life for plants. If your system is not well suited for root applications of aerobically brewed nutrient teas, you can apply them as foliar sprays with some level of benefit. Also, there are some specialty inoculants available that are specifically formulated for hydroponics growers, and contain super strains of bacteria such as Bacillus and Pseudomonas as well as beneficial fungi such as Trichoderma and Mycorrhizae. These are available as liquid concentrates or powdered formulations, and can be added to a variety of cropping programs. Most often they are applied to the roots, and when specially formulated, will not clog-up hydroponics growing systems. They are especially well suited to soil and soilless growing medium applications.

So, there you have it. Seven growing tips, that when followed and adhered to, can offer just about any grower in any growing situation a bigger yield, healthier plants and better crop quality. Sure there are many more tips and tricks that all stack up to maximum yields, however, these are a great place to start. Remember that it is never any one tweak or trick that makes your garden successful; it’s the culmination of all the little things you do to make your garden grow better. You will only get out of it what you put into it.

Article by Erik Biksa – Original article here

I am on a real mycorrhizae tangent this week. I suppose it is because I am transplanting my babies during the last few days. Plant Success is such an awesome product and their website had some really great information I thought I’d share with you guys.

By Mike Amaranthus Ph.D and Tim Eagan

The more we learn about life on Earth, the more we learn about the mechanics of superior plant performance. We now realize that in natural systems, organisms work not independently but interdependently.  There is no doubt that nature is less a battleground and more a marketplace. Symbiotic organisms that exchange materials and services in a mutually advantageous living arrangement can be the key to successful planting and growing. Hydroponic growers are gaining increased appreciation of the living soil and more frequently incorporating soil biology and mycorrhizal products into their practices.

Fig. 1 – Picture of a mycorrhizal colonized root. Mycorrhizal fungal filaments radiate into the soil from the mycorrhiza root tip.

What are mycorrhizae?

More than 90 percent of plant species form a symbiotic arrangement with beneficial soil fungi called mycorrhizal fungi. The roots are colonized by the soil fungus, which attaches to the roots and whose threads or “hyphae” extend  far into the surrounding soil environment (figure 1). The colonized root is called a mycorrhiza. Mycorrhizal fungi are the dominant microbes in undisturbed soils accounting for 60 percent to 80 percent of the microbial biomass. Mycorrhizae are fundamental for superior growth, supplying the water and nutrients needed for good growth, flowering and fruiting and, in exchange, receiving essential sugars and other compounds supplied by the plant.

Fig. 2 - The white threads on this seedling grown in a glass box are mycorrhizal hyphae.

What do they do for plants?

These mycorrhizal fungi increase the surface absorbing area of roots 10 to 1,000 times, thereby greatly improving the ability of the plants to use the nutrients and water (figure 2). Estimates of amounts of mycorrhizal filaments present in soil associated with plants are astonishing. Several miles of fungal filaments can be present in less than a thimbleful of soil. But mycorrhizal fungi increase nutrient uptake not only by increasing the surface absorbing area of roots. Mycorrhizal fungi release powerful chemicals into the surrounding environment that capture nitrogen, phosphorous, magnesium, iron and other plant nutrients. This extraction process is particularly important in plant nutrition, flowering and fruiting and explains why mycorrhizal inoculations have been so successful in hydroponic operations.

What other functions do mycorrhizal fungi perform?

Suppression of diseases and pathogens are additional benefits for a mycorrhizal plant. Mycorrhizal fungi attack pathogen or disease organisms entering the root zone. For example, excretions of specific antibiotics produced by mycorrhizal fungi can immobilize and kill disease organisms. Many practical benefits can be expected from using mycorrhizal fungi in common practices. These include improved rooting (figure 3), flowering and fruiting (figure 4), and protection against diseases.

Where’s the beef?

The plant-mycorrhizal fungi relationship is the best understood in the field of soil biology. There are more than 60,000 studies in literature on the subject. But there is more important proof. The mycorrhizal relationship with plants is one of nature’s longest and most successful experiments. The earliest fossil record of the roots of land plants contain mycorrhizae almost identical to what is found today. Most scientists today believe the plant-mycorrhiza relationship allowed aquatic plants to make the transition to the relatively harsh terrestrial environment some 460 million years ago. In nature, mycorrhizae make plant growth possible, linking the roots of plants to the surrounding soil. In nature, neither can survive or grow without the other. Now hydroponic growers can benefit from this essential relationship.

How do I use mycorrhizal products most effectively?

High-quality commercial mycorrhizal inoculum is now available from a variety of sources. Inoculums containing mixtures of species of mycorrhizal fungi often give the best response. Mycorrhizal inoculum comes in granular, powder, liquid and tablet forms. The most important factor is to get the mycorrhizal propagules near the root systems of target plants. Most mycorrhizal propagules will stay dormant and until root activity begins. The chemicals pumped into the soil by active roots cause mycorrhizal propagules to become active and grow. Inoculum can be injected into the rooting zone of hydroponic systems, watered into porous soil-less mixes, mixed in granular form into soilless mixes or directly dipped on root systems using gels during transplanting. The form and application of the mycorrhizal inoculum depends upon the needs of the applicator. What is clear is that mycorrhizal  inoculation is highly effective.

Micro reality

Growing plants hydroponically requires an understanding of the many processes important in facilitating uptake, storage and cycling of nutrients and water by the target plant species. In nature, these activities are largely performed by the “tiny little secrets,” working hard below in the root zone of plants. Hydroponic growers can now make a  “Declaration of Interdependence” and incorporate mycorrhizal fungi into their programs

Dr. Mike Amaranthus spent 20 years with Oregon State University and the U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Service, and has written more than 60 research papers on mycorrhizae. He is the recipient of the USDA Highest Honors for scientific achievement and has been featured on several major national and international television programs. Tim Eagan is an expert in the practical application of mycorrhizal fungal inoculums and is Vice President of Plant Revolution Inc.  located on the web at www.plantrevolution.com.  All photographs accompanying this article are courtesy of Mycorrhizal Applications Inc.

* 7 species Endomycorrhizae & 11 species Ectomycorrhizae * 67,000 Endo & 1.5 billion Ecto Propagules per lb. * 19 species Bacteria/ 2 species Trichoderma/ Biostimulant Package/ Vitamin Package

Hey guys, I love this product. It’s a little more expensive then some of the other Mycorrhizae products available, but it is well worth the price! I also like that you use it with water instead of pouring it into your medium. It is very obvious that this stuff is a completely different product then all other Mycorrhizae inoculants. It’s moist and rich texture has a pungent smell and is not dusty freeze dried spores, but soft, ready to be diluted in water Mycorrhizae, Trichoderma and more… Using it is easy and almost impossible to over use. You WILL see dramatic results from this product! They suggest using it once every few waterings, but using it for every watering seemed to produce the most visible and dramatic results!

Great White Mycorrhizae is a plant root inoculant.  It contains a combination of Mycorrhizae, beneficial bacteria, trichoderma, and plant vitamins. This enables plants to break down and absorb nutrients efficiently and effectively,  increase water uptake and the overall absorption area of the root system. Great White Mycorrhizae can be used in hydroponics as well as soil.  I recently got a chance to try Great White Mycorrhizae.

It is easy to mix up for application.  One scoop that comes in the little blue tub makes 2 gallons of inoculant as a root drench or as a nutrient solution.  I used distilled water, to prevent chlorine from killing any of the beneficial bacteria.  I tested it with a couple of snow peas in coco coir.

The plant on the left got the Great White Mycorrhizae.  I didn’t think the results would be dramatic after just 2 weeks, but the foliage is fuller on the inoculated plant and is more than a leaf set ahead in growth.

Just to make sure that it was not a fluke,  I tested it on a couple of Miracle Fruit trees in soil.  The manufacturer recommends re-inoculating every two weeks, but I did every watering.  They are typically slow growers, but there was a “pop” in growth after application.  The plant on the left using Great White speaks for itself.

The results were quick and dramatic.  I plan on using Great White in my entire garden.  Plant Revolution’s Great White Mycorrhizae is a great supplement that gives visible results in the garden.

Thanks to Red-Icculus – Original Page Here

Plant Success Recommended Feed Schedule

If you haven’t seen this yet, here is your chance. So many people ask us to send them this video on DVD. Now you can watch it over and over anytime you want! John Evans shows us how he holds 9 world records for HUGE crops. We sell ALL  Bountea products! 1-866-PGS-GROW. The secret is in the soil!

Organic Hydroponic Vegetables

The debate on “Organics” and “Hydroponics”

There is a huge popular debate about the value of “organic” fertilizers and methods, many people would like to apply “organics” to hydroponics. Currently accepted organic fertilizer
components are dependent upon organisms in the soil to convert the “organic” materials into a useable form for plants.

In hydroponics we provide the minerals required for plant growth directly, completely eliminating the need for soil and soilorganisms. The result is much higher growth rates, yields and even crop quality than organic methods can achieve. This is not what some people want to hear, but it is the simple scientific truth – and practically all scientists and educators in the fields of agriculture and chemistry know it and will be the first to agree. In fact, the kinds of materials which are permitted for use under “organic” regulations are not of sufficient purity to be used for hydroponic culture.

With this in mind it’s important to recognize the reasons that “organically” grown produce is gaining such popularity. Consumers want to buy produce which is not tainted with hazardous chemicals or poisons. There is an increasing public demand for methods which are gentle on our delicate planet and which don’t harm the soil, water or ecosystems. Hydroponic farming methods fit properly into this system of values if used appropriately. Hydroponics protects soil because it doesn’t use soil.

Less water is required for hydroponic culture and consequently more food can be cultivated with less water. The fertilizers we use for hydroponics are ultra-pure and leave no residue in the cultivated fruits and vegetables. Since hydroponic technologies are more efficient than soil methods, more people can be fed with less area and ecological impact.

THE ORGANIC HYDROPONIC DEBATE OPENING PANDORA’S BOX

As seen in the Growing Edge Magazine During the 1980’s, Americans increasingly became more healthconscious. Cholesterol was ruled out and exercise became a part of our daily routines. Today this still holds true, but even more so. What we put into our bodies is carefully scrutinized, even our fruits and vegetables, which has made “organic” a buzzword of the ‘90s. People are buying organic skin care products, “organic shampoos” and even “organic clothing”. Everybody seems to want “organic” and hydroponic growers are quite aware of this.

Why, then, are there hardly any “Certified Organic hydroponic growers” in the United States? Many go through a great deal of trouble to grow their crops “organically,” but even though they follow most guidelines, they still cannot get the recognition or certification necessary to sell their produce to most restaurants or natural food stores as “organic”. What is it that is separating organic from hydroponic methods? Why can’t these two technologies work together under today’s American states’ certification guidelines?

WHAT’S ORGANIC, WHAT’S NOT?

We would think that this is an easy question to answer, but it isn’t. In the United States there are numerous different definitions of “organic”, many of which differ significantly. Each state has its own regulations for labeling produce as “organic”. Additionally, there are 36 non-governmental organizations which can certify” produce as organic. For example, California growers who wish to sell their produce as “organic” must register with the California Department of Food and Agriculture and pass their inspection. However, California grower’s can also obtain certification through the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), which actually has higher standards for organic than the state has.

The CCOF certification is optional, but produce with California state registration and CCOF certification may be offered for sale within the state as “certified organic” If the grower chooses not to seek CCOF certification, the produce can be offered for sale in California as “organic,” but not “certified organic”. Any produce grown outside of the United States can be sold as “certified organic” in the country if one of the 36 non-governmental organizations certifies it. In fact, produce from any state can be granted certification from one of the non-governmental organizations, even if it does not meet the organic standards for the state in which it is being sold. Pretty confusing!

What this all means is that the “organic” label is a matter of bureaucratic definitions, which can vary from state to state, and country to country. In order to bring some kind of standard into play, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) – along with state government regulators, non-governmental certifiers, consumers, industry interest groups, food processors and various special interest groups – is writing a federally mandated set of “organic” standards. No state will be able to apply more stringent standards than those of the federal. Sometime this spring, the federal standards will be released for a 90 day comment and review period, and by the end of 1996 or early 1997, these standards will become law, or “Frankenlaw”; we’ll have to wait and see.

The basic objectives of “organic” practice include the following:

Avoidance of pesticides, by use of natural pest controls (also applied by many hydroponics growers).

Caring for soil by recording nutrients and composting, and

Moderation of nutrient application with reliance on the bufferaction of humus derived from compost.

Soilless hydroponic cultivation moderates nutrient supply by the more exact measurements of soluble nutrient formulations, mixed to meet the optimum requirements of each plant species and growth phase. Many consumers select “organic” produce, believing that this is the only way to be assured of pesticide-free non—hazardous food. While “organic” farming methods do produce crops generally superior to and safer than those grown by agri-business practices, modern hydroponic techniques can put forth equally safe food that in many cases offers advances in nutrition and taste over their soil-grown “organic” counterparts. But to the consumer, it’s the label that counts, so an increasing number of growers throughout the United States are struggling to get organic certification in any way, shape or form.

Meanwhile, this whole situation poses an enormous dilemma to hydroponic growers who also want organic recognition for their produce. The primary problem for organic hydroponic growers is in the formulation of the soilless nutrient solution. A secondary issue, which concerns the federal regulators, is in the way used hydroponic nutrient and media such as rockwool are disposed of. Since “organic” is to a large extent a farming philosophy in support of a healthy environment, the federal concern is entirely reasonable.

Although the latter factor has no bearing on the quality and safety of the produce itself, the impact upon the planet is a real driving force behind the issue of “organic” farming. If hydroponic growers can find a way to completely recycle exhausted water, nutrients and media, then the argument in favor of “organic-hydroponic certification” becomes much stronger, but there’s still the issue of formulating a satisfactory organic hydroponic nutrient mix.

Organic nutrient regulations prohibit the use of many mineral salts and highly refined substances, including food and pharmaceutical grade ingredients that are extremely important for successful hydroponic nutrient formulation. Only unrefined minerals can be used on “organic” crops and these often don’t dissolve well or contain quantities of impurities, some of which are even relatively toxic but are “natural” and therefore “okay”, according to organic standards. For example, mined phosphate may contain excessive amounts of fluoride, good for teeth in very small quantities, but harmful to humans in excess.

Mined phosphate also can contain small amounts of radioactive elements such as radium, which releases radon, also not good for human health. Chlorides, too, are permitted for organic cultivation but though they are naturally mined, they can be bad for both plants and soil, especially if used in excess. Some soils used by organic farmers contain such toxic elements as selenium, which can accumulate in the plant tissues and produce. Amazing, isn’t it?

When refined, any impurities or toxicities such as those listed above are removed, but refined minerals make for non-organic produce. Blood meal, bone meal, fish meal and manures pose almost no potential safety hazards, but they don’t dissolve very well; they must be broken down through microbial action in the soil and therefore don’t work well in hydroponic applications. There is also a problem that sometimes arises when using manures. The Western Fertilizer Handbook, an important guide for American farmers, points out that many gastro-intestinal illnesses can he traced back to manures used on organically gown crops.

In the summer of 1995, a serious outbreak of salmonella poisoning resulted from an organic cantaloupe crop growing in soil fertilized with fresh chicken manure. The rinds of the melons had become contaminated and the bacteria caused serious intestinal illness for many consumers.

Another point that can be made is that strict vegetarians or animal rights activists may be offended by the use of blood, bone, horn, hoof and feather meals to grow their food, but these are primary nutrient sources for organic farmers. As you can see, this issue Is very complex and there are many points of view. Essentially though, “organic” farming is part philosophy and part methodology, but unfortunately defined bureaucratically.

Look out for Part 2 Tomorrow!

Ok, so you have grown a few crops and now your ready to maybe “kick it up” a little. Sounds good, we all get to that point, and building an indoor hydroponic, or container garden from scratch can not only be fun, but incredibly rewarding as well. Instead of mapping out different systems for you guys, and explaining features, I going to work from the premise that you guys are familiar with the equipment we will be featuring today. I want to show you how PGS has everything necessary to help you design your dream grow room.

Galaxy Electronic HID Ballast

Lets start with the foundation of any indoor garden, lighting…First thing is first, electronic ballast, or magnetic ballast. We have both types stocked in 600 and 1000 watt varieties.

Harvest Pro Magnetic HID Ballast

Next thing to consider….Light Reflector. We carry a HUGE line of options, priced competitively. We can help you determine the optimal reflector for your situation based on 20+ years of experience.

HID Reflectors Stocked and Ready

Moving on to…. grow method. If your a die hard organic soil or soil-less fanatic, or a hydroponic scientist, we have a complete stock of containers, hydroponic mediums, and complete systems to meet anyone’s needs.

Next Step… Ventilation.
Anyone serious about growing indoors knows that ventilation is one of the most important things to take seriously. PGS has got you covered. Dampers, Filters, Extenders, Fans, Clamps, Reducers, Controllers and more….

Lets continue on to CO2 Enrichment… Tired of small yields and airy product? Increase your yields and overall structure with CO2 enrichment. We carry a large line generators, tanks, regulators, and controllers.

Little things that make the difference between bumper crops and bogus results.

Keep your plants happy and healthy through the entire bloom cycle!

Now lets address Environmental Control….
Now that you have a great room in the making, don’t let the environment go to shit with neglect! Dial in the perfect temperatures, humidity levels and your electricity to run flawlessly at all times. PGS has any kind of controller for your environment you can imagine.

Get Notified While Your Gone If You Have a Fire or a Breakin

Onto… Propagation What good is all of this without clones and cuttings to get your future crops ensured? PGS carries popular aero clone machines, as well as tradition Oasis, and Rockwool cubes, clone solutions, gels, and powders, modern T5 fluorescent systems and more…..

The key to success over a long period of time, is an intelligent, planned out nursery program, that includes all the things you would address in your bloom or vegetative environment. Temperature, co2 levels, relative humidity etc… Your future crops are only as good as the plants your nursery produces! Take the extra time to really create a perfect nursery and you will enjoy years of massive crops and prosperity!

T5 Fluorescent Grow Lights - Perfect For Vegetative Growth and Propagation

Let’s not forget the staple of ALL gardens.. Nutrients

Ah… what to say about nutrients? Take the time to learn what works best for your particular situation. We can help, we have just about every major plant nutrient product that is available today, AND we know how to use them.

Perhaps you want a ready to go Growroom? There are some really great ready to go grow rooms that are easy to assemble, and easy to break down. They make alot of sense for even the most experience growers in some situations. They come in every size for any project… Including massive Mammoth size ones for epic projects.

Don’t let garden pest ruin all your have built!… Pest Management.

After all your doing to build this dream room, don’t let bugs ruin this scenario! PGS has a full arsenal of organic and non-organic forms of pest management.

PGS Pest Managment Station

Did we almost forget Water Quality? Hell NO!

Without healthy, clean water as a basis, you will NEVER have a bumper crop. PGS has simple pacific sands filters, to full on huge RO systems.

Ok, I could go on and on about all the rest of the odds and ends, but the point is WE HAVE IT, from white plastic, Mylar, timers and fittings. Above all we offer a smile, and countless years of combined experience. Call us for prices and tell them Pete from the blog said to give you a deal!!! 1-866-PGS-GROW

Hey guys, as most of you know, PGS has a sister company called Local Harvest. Local Harvest produces organic plant food that out performs most synthetic, chemical/ salt based hydroponic nutrients. We recently have perfected the feeding schedule for Local Harvest and it’s based on our own experience with our own product. Feel free to give us a call anytime with any questions you might have. We want you guys to have some of the success we have had with Local Harvest!

New Local Harvest Feed Chart

Hey guys, I don’t usually post during the weekend, but this one was too interesting not to share with my PGS peeps.

You think you know why leaves fall off trees. Well, you’re wrong. It’s not the wind. It’s not the cold.

iStockphoto.com

It’s because trees use “scissors” to cut their leaves off.

iStockphoto.com

We call this season the “fall” because all around us right now (if you live near leaf-dropping trees in a temporal zone), leaves are turning yellow and looking a little dry and crusty. So when a stiff breeze comes along, those leaves seem to “fall” off, thus justifying the name “fall.”

Sounds reasonable, no?

But the truth is much more interesting.

According to Peter Raven, president of the Missouri Botanical Garden and a renowned botanist, the wind doesn’t gently pull leaves off trees. Trees are more proactive than that. They throw their leaves off. Instead of calling this season “The Fall,” if trees could talk they’d call this the “Get Off Me” season.

Here’s why.

Around this time of year in the Northern Hemisphere, as the days grow shorter and colder, those changes trigger a hormone in leaf-dropping trees that sends a chemical message to every leaf that says, in essence, “Time to go! Let’s part company!”

Once the message is received, says Raven, little cells appear at the place where the leaf stem meets the branch. They are called “abscission” cells. They have the same root as the word scissors, meaning they are designed, like scissors, to make a cut.

And within a few days or weeks, every leaf on these deciduous trees develops a thin bumpy line of cells that push the leaf, bit by bit, away from the stem. You can’t see this without a microscope, but if you looked through one, you’d see those scissors cells lined right up.

Enlarge University of Wisconsin Plant Image Teaching CollectionThe scissor cells are stained red and mark the boundary between the branch (left) and the leaf stalk.

That’s where the tree gives each leaf a push, leaving it increasingly dangling. “So with that very slender connection, they’re sort of ready to be kicked off,” says Raven, and then a breeze comes along and finishes the job.

So the truth is, the wind isn’t making the leaves fall. It’s the tree.

The tree is deeply programmed by eons of evolution to insist that the leaves drop away. Why? Why not let the leaves stick around? Why drop?

Raven explains that leaves are basically the kitchen staff of a tree. During the spring, summer and early fall they make the food that helps the tree grow and thrive and reproduce. When the days get short and cold, food production slows down, giving the tree an option: It can keep the kitchen staff or it can let it go.

If trees kept their leaves permanently they wouldn’t have to grow new ones, but leaves are not the brightest of bulbs (sorry!). Every so often, when the winter weather has a break and the days turn warm, Raven says leaves will start photosynthesizing. “They get some water up and they start operating and making food and then it freezes again.”

When the cold snap’s back on, the leaves will be caught with water in their veins, freeze and die. So instead of a food staff that’s resting, the tree is stuck with a food staff that’s dead. And when spring comes, the permanent help will be no help. The tree will die.

That’s why every fall, deciduous trees in many parts of North America get rid of their leaves and grow new ones in the spring. It’s safer that way.

So for leaves, falling in the fall isn’t optional. The trees are shoving them off.

Original article here

Harsh Bais, University of Delaware assistant professor of plant and soil sciences, and doctoral student Meredith Bierdrzycki with Arabidopsis plants in the laboratory at the Delaware Biotechnology Institute. (Credit: Image courtesy of University of Delaware)

ScienceDaily (Oct. 15, 2009) — Plants may not have eyes and ears, but they can recognize their siblings, and researchers at the University of Delaware have discovered how.
The ID system lies in the roots and the chemical cues they secrete.

The finding not only sheds light on the intriguing sensing system in plants, but also may have implications for agriculture and even home gardening.

The study, which is reported in the scientific journal Communicative & Integrative Biology, was led by Harsh Bais, assistant professor of plant and soil sciences at the University of Delaware.

Canadian researchers published in 2007 that sea rocket, a common seashore plant, can recognize its siblings — plants grown from seeds from the same mother.

Susan Dudley, an evolutionary plant ecologist at McMaster University in Hamilton, Ontario, and her colleagues observed that when siblings are grown next to each other in the soil, they “play nice” and don’t send out more roots to compete with one another.

However, the moment one of the plants is thrown in with strangers, it begins competing with them by rapidly growing more roots to take up the water and mineral nutrients in the soil.

Bais, who has conducted a variety of research on plant signaling systems, read Dudley’s study and wanted to find the mechanism behind the sibling recognition.

“Plants have no visible sensory markers, and they can’t run away from where they are planted,” Bais says. “It then becomes a search for more complex patterns of recognition.”

Working in his laboratory at the Delaware Biotechnology Institute, a major center for life sciences research at UD, Bais and doctoral student Meredith Biedrzycki set up a study with wild populations of Arabidopsis thaliana.

They utilized wild populations to avoid issues with this common laboratory-bred species, which “always has cousins floating around in the lab,” Bais says.

In a series of experiments, young seedlings were exposed to liquid media containing the root secretions or “exudates” from siblings, from strangers (non-siblings), or only their own exudates.

The length of the longest lateral root and of the hypocotyl, the first leaf-like structure that forms on the plant, were measured.

Additionally, in one experiment, the root exudates were inhibited by sodium orthovanadate, which specifically blocks root secretions without imparting adverse growth effects on roots.

The exposure of plants to the root exudates of strangers induced greater lateral root formation than exposure of plants to sibling exudates. Stranger recognition was abolished upon treatment with the secretion inhibitor.

Biedrzycki did the painstaking laboratory research, rotating more than 3,000 plants involved in the study every day for seven consecutive days and documenting the root patterns.

“The research was very painstaking because Arabidopsis roots are nearly translucent when they are young and were also tangled when I removed them from plates, so measuring the roots took a great amount of patience,” Biedrzycki notes.

“This manuscript is very important for my research since the focus of my thesis project is understanding the biochemical mechanism behind root secretions,” she says. “This research has allowed me to probe the natural mechanism of kin recognition and root secretion.”

The study was replicated by Dudley’s lab in Canada, with similar results.

Strangers planted next to each other are often shorter, Bais notes, because so much of their energy is directed at root growth.

Because siblings aren’t competing against each other, their roots are often much shallower.

Bais says he and his colleagues also have noticed that as sibling plants grow next to each other, their leaves often will touch and intertwine compared to strangers that grow rigidly upright and avoid touching.

The study leaves a lot of unanswered questions that Bais hopes to explore further. How might sibling plants grown in large “monocultures,” such as corn or other major crop plants, be affected? Are they more susceptible to pathogens? And how do they survive without competing?

“It’s possible that when kin are grown together, they may balance their nutrient uptake and not be greedy,” Bais speculates.

The research also may have implications for the home gardener.

“Often we’ll put plants in the ground next to each other and when they don’t do well, we blame the local garden center where we bought them or we attribute their failure to a pathogen,” Bais says. “But maybe there’s more to it than that.”

Bais’s research was supported by the National Science Foundation (NSF) and by the NSF-Delaware Experimental Program to Stimulate Competitive Research (EPSCoR). The Natural Science and Engineering Research Council of Canada provided research funding to Dudley.

We recently got a comment concerning an old post I made about seed balls. This concept is so fantastic it deserved a 2nd post! Imagine taking your outdoor, or indoor for that matter, to this level. I this is an amazing way for us to preserve some valuable genetics and possibly increase yields.

Seed balls (土団子,土だんご, Tsuchi Dango Earth Dumpling) consist of mixing one measure of seeds for next season’s crop with 3 measures of compost and 5 measures of red clay, and sometimes manure then formed into small balls. Much less seed is used than in conventional growing, resulting in fewer plants which are smaller but stronger with a higher yield. The technique is useful for seeding thin and compacted soils, and avoiding seed eaters.

It is an ancient technique that was re-introduced by Masanobu Fukuoka, an advocate of “natural farming”.

Someone just came in and told us about EM1. It’s a beneficial micro-organism product that unfortunately, due to California’s bureaucratic system is not available to us locally. It can however be found online, and we are looking into the logistics of stocking it soon. What is exciting about this is its an anaerobic form of beneficial microorganisms that can be used in both your already brewed teas and soil or soil-less mediums. EM1 is what is used to create Bocashi.

Compost teas have often been confused with EM-1® Microbial Inoculant. Compost tea is a liquid extract made from aerobically bubbling air through compost in order to grow aerobic microbes. The tea’s quality is directly related to the quality of the compost and has a very short shelf life. The aerobic microbes require air to stay alive. Once the air is gone, they start to die off. Compost tea quality varies from batch to batch as the microbial populations vary with each new batch.

Commercial Tea Brewer using EM in San Francisco

Effective Microorganisms™ contains facultative microbes, is consistent in quality, and is very stable, with a shelf life of several years.

Our suggestions are to make your compost with EM-1® Microbial Inoculant to ensure a high quality compost (see our composting section to see that the use of EM-1® Microbial Inoculant increases the production of aerobic bacteria in compost and also speeds up the composting process). Once the compost is complete, you can make a high quality compost tea..

To make compost tea, follow the instructions of Dr. Elaine Ingham. She is the authority on compost teas. You can hear some of her lectures at the ACRES USA conferences. There is no need to reinvent the wheel here. The brewing process takes about 24 hours. Once the aeration cycle is completed, add Activated EM-1® Microbial Inoculant at a rate of 1:50 (1 gallon per 55-gallon drum works great!).

This is a commercial-sized tea brewer used at Harding Golf Course in San Francisco. They brew compost tea and inoculate with EM-1® Microbial Inoculant as part of their greens program.

So you have carefully selected your genetics based on serious consideration and you feel you have made the best choice when it comes to the plant varieties you grow. You feel like you are in control of your garden and what grows in it, and your proud of that fact. What if I was to tell you that your strains picked YOU! Michael Pollan, author of Botany of Desire, gave a fantastic talk at TED, and I was lucky enough to find it for us. I really love this concept of looking at the world from a plants perspective. After watching this video, I promise you will see your garden in a completely different light. No pun intended.