Tag-Archive for » hydro «

Tuesday, February 02nd, 2010 | Author: Pete

Hydroponic plants can enrich the lives of animals just as they do humans, and what better place to exhibit this than at a zoo. Paignton Zoo Environmental Park in Devon, UK, recently hosted the official opening of the Verticrop vertical hydroponic farming system, developed by Valcent EU. The idea of growing fresh food for the animals on-site originated from discussions between Kevin Frediani, curator of plants and gardens at Paignton Zoo, and Valcent Products (EU) Ltd., based in Launceston, who was developing a vertical hydroponic system for high intensity cropping. Space within the zoo was tight and at a premium, so options for on-site fresh food production were severely limited until the vertical cropping was introduced by Valcent. Within a small area in the middle of the zoo, which was formally a goat paddock, a 395 square foot greenhouse was erected in May 2009 and the system began installation in August. By the time of the opening on September 30, an impressive growth rate had ensured some sizeable lettuce was ready for viewing and for taste testing by the zoo occupants.

With an annual bill for animal feed currently in excess of $300,000 a year, it is the hope of management the high intensity Verticrop system will not only produce ultra fresh produce on-site, but also reduce both food miles and food costs for the zoo. Lettuce has been the initial trial crop for the Verticrop system, with many animals enjoying the fresh crunch of crispy green leaves. The zoo currently goes through 800 lettuce heads per week, $12,000 worth of fruit per month and also uses fresh herbs as enrichment for many species. Later on it’s planned that the hydroponic system will have more diversity of crops; currently small volumes of basil and other leafy greens are being trialed.

Each growing tray contains a nutrient feeding funnel.

The Verticrop system comprises 10 feet tall, multi-level growing trays, which are suspended from an overhead track. Each ‘rig’ consists of eight levels of growing channels or ‘trays’ of which there are two different sizes to accommodate various crops. Each growing tray, which has been purpose built for the Verticrop system, has a nutrient delivery funnel through which nutrients are dosed at the feeding station. The unique thing about this vertical system is that the rigs are suspended on a closed loop conveyor and in motion around the greenhouse track. Each circuit takes approximately 40 minutes with groups of rigs stopping at the dosing station on each round where nutrient solution is delivered via nozzles to the growing trays. The 395 square foot greenhouse has the capacity to grow 11,200 lettuce heads using the Verticrop system, compared to 4,332 in conventional systems.

Nutrient solution flows through the trays, past the plant roots and is channeled to the end were it is collected and drained away for recirculation. The movement of the stacks or rigs of trays, filled with lettuce plants, around the greenhouse to the nutrient delivery bay is a feature of the system which has great audience appeal as the many spectators who pass the greenhouse in the midst of the zoo grounds are testament to. The system features not only new technology in terms of rigs, conveyors, tray loading machinery and customized growing channels, but also incorporates high technology growing greenhouse equipment such as UV nutrient treatment, filters and automated nutrient and greenhouse control. A ‘touch-screen’ monitor linked to a Priva computer gives control over the nutrient dosing, greenhouse ventilation and the conveyor system. This system allows groups of growing trays to receive different irrigation programs so that young seedlings or different species can be dosed with fewer nutrients than those rigs containing larger plants. The Priva system also controls the under floor heating system. Another interesting feature of the Verticrop system is the custom made tray handler, which allows the growing trays to be loaded and unloaded from the rigs, four at a time; this should allow for commercial Verticrop systems to become fully automated.

Based upon technology originally developed in the Valcent Group’s research centre in El-Paso, Texas, much of the current success of the system can be attributed to Valcent’s UK team led by horticultural development manager Grahame Dunling, who with many years of experience as a grower and manager was fully aware of the challenges involved in designing high intensity solution culture systems. Grahame’s knowledge and expertise saw the development of customized growing trays, which are a unique feature of the system and has made the many modifications and improvements required to get the Verticrop system fully operational. Along with customized growing trays, the system will incorporate the use of the latest technology in soilless growing media. Because the final product is destined to be fed, roots and all, to the animals, the media used to raise and support the seedlings needs to be suitable for this purpose. Rockwool has been avoided for this reason, and it is intended that hydroponic seedling media made from a cellulose fiber derived from wood is to be used, which can be fed to the animals once the crop is harvested.

“Manipulations of the nutrient solution and environment could enhance the fiber, vitamin and beneficial nutrient levels and phytonutrients in the fresh greens.”

While growth through summer in the multi-level system has been rapid, it is planned to trial LED supplemental lighting as the season progresses into the shorter days and lower light levels of the UK winter. Valcent has been working in association with Philips to trial new LED technology, which is hoped will lead to the development of a commercially viable lighting arrangement for the Verticrop system.

Initially several varieties of butterhead and loose leaf lettuce were trialed to determine which would produce the best `fodder crop’ for the zoo animals. While hydroponic lettuce destined for supermarkets and consumers needs to meet specific qualities of long shelf life, compact heads and acceptable weight, fresh produce for the animals is a little different. The vegetables, herbs and other produce grown on-site can be harvested and fed out immediately, guaranteeing the animals have salads fresher than most zoo-goers will ever experience. While there might be less of a concern over extended shelf life and compact heads, there is interest from zoo staff and researchers in using the system to not only enrich the lives of the animals with fresh produce, but also to manipulate the nutritional quality of the vegetables being grown in the Verticrop system. With hydroponics and protected growing environments, there is much more control over plant nutrition than there is with soil grown crops. Starting with a base of good quality water, the nutrient solution can be manipulated to influence the compositional quality of the hydroponic crop and whether this is for animals or for improving human nutrition it is an idea which has increasing appeal to many.

Kevin Frediani, curator of plants and gardens at Paignton Zoo is particularly interested in the nutritional quality of fresh fodder and is hoping that the Verticrop system can be used to address problems such as `hemosiderosis’ in zoo animals. Hemosiderosis is a worldwide problem in zoos where certain animals, who are no longer dining on the food of their native habitats, end up consuming too much iron, which ends up stored in body tissues. This iron builds up in organs such as the liver where it stays permanently and causes severe tissue damage over time. While zoo animals can be fed commercial premixes low in iron, the fresh fruits and vegetables fed to many animals as part or all of their diet typically contain more iron than is needed. With fruit, vegetables and herbs being an important part of not only captive animals diets, but as part of the enrichment and activity programs, the issue of iron levels and hemosiderosis can become widespread in some species. This problem is further compounded at Paignton Zoo as vegetables grown locally in the deep red, iron rich soils of Devon are higher than normal in iron, and in general commercially-grown vegetables worldwide produced with soil fertilizer additions would be expected to have higher iron contents than the vegetation many zoo animals consumed in their native environments. With hydroponic systems and starting with RO, distilled or rainwater (free from naturally occurring iron in the water supply) it is relatively simple to lower iron in the solution to levels where plant iron deficiency and growth reductions are limited, but the resulting tissue has minimal iron levels, making it more suitable to animals prone to development hemosiderosis. Further manipulations of the nutrient solution and environment could see improvements in dry weight, fiber, vitamin and beneficial nutrient levels, phytonutrients, chlorophyll and other health related factors in the fresh greens that are difficult or impossible to achieve with commercially prepared dried animal feeds.

One of the most exciting aspects of the Verticrop system installed at Paignton Zoo is that is it is effectively `taking hydroponics to the people,’ zoo-goers can walk around the outside of the greenhouse and view the plants moving and growing in situ. This is particularly relevant to Paignton Zoo which is also a botanic garden keen to education people about all aspects of horticulture and the impact on our environment of crop production. Public viewings of large scale hydroponics are rare and while many people are aware of soilless culture, few have the option of seeing high intensity crops growing in real life. At a later date, a web cam installed on the greenhouse ceiling will provide a live feed on the zoo’s website, allowing visitors ongoing viewing of plant progress. Good publicity regarding hydroponics is always a bonus and at Paignton Zoo; healthy lettuce at all stages of development can be seen and the story of how the animal’s lives are enriched by on-site fresh produce is told. The fact that the Verticrop system is the first high intensity vertical hydroponic system of its kind installed in a zoo anywhere in the world makes it a great addition to Paignton Zoo’s attractions.

Category: Hydroponic  | Tags: ,  | 3 Comments
Tuesday, January 12th, 2010 | Author: Pete

Hey guys, today I present an educational, in-depth, up-to-date, indoor horticultural growers guide that covers all principles of indoor hydroponic horticulture and gardening. This book contains 110,000 words, with over 300 diagrams, pictures, illustrations, graphs, tables, 3 dimensional CAD renderings, and is printed in full colour.

I was really impressed at the amount of great info available in this book, I strongly recommend it for all PGS blog readers.

This book goes further than most other indoor growers guides have gone before, presented in full color with 3 dimensional CAD renderings. In terms of literal content, quantity, quality and presentation, this book is a gem!

Monday, November 02nd, 2009 | Author: Pete

NEWSIGNsmallWhen it comes to providing Sonoma County and Northern California with the best hydroponic and indoor gardening supplies around, PGS has been consistently providing hardware and advice for over 6 years now. I was recently asked by Urban Garden Magazine, what makes PGS different in this sea of endless grow shops? I was super excited to answer that question…. Here is what I wrote to Urban Garden…

Pro Gardening Systems, is a grassroots grow shop that has evolved into three locations and 2 warehouses. From our humble beginnings in Sebastopol, in 6 years we built a rock solid customer base that defines us as Sonoma County’s Original One Stop Grow Shop. With customer satisfaction as our main goal, PGS has managed to stay ahead in this competitive industry. New products that emerge get tested immediately and first hand experience gets passed along with a friendly smile. Gone are the days of hoarding secret techniques and products and now we share a rich community of serious expert horticulture. PGS separates itself from other hydroponic garden centers in so many ways. PGS is the only store I am aware of that has a graduated Botanist on hand to offer real science and experience to amateurs and experts alike. Our knowledge, and willingness to share, coupled with our incredible selection, has created an atmosphere of excitement and vigor. When I was a new employee, i found it truly astounding that come 6pm, everyone hangs out and has a couple beers while talking shop. No one wanted to go home. I will never forget that first after work party, Jay (owner) came up to me and said “ever had a job where you didn’t want to run home right at 6?” “nope” I answered. I thought for sure that this was just a fluke and that the harsh environment I had always known at other jobs would soon set in. It never has and PGS continues to grow both internally and externally. Once a week we have BBQ lunches and welcome our customers to join us and share some garden talk with us. This dynamic situation is truly unique to PGS and it has set the standard for most other grow shops in California in general, not just northern California. Our online presence has recently been extended and we now offer online shopping, grow tips, feed charts, videos and more, with over 1000 unique visitors a day. Since day one of working with PGS, it was obvious that this is a group of people dedicated to helping others grow. I have been so inspired since I came on board. When talking to other store owners, I never get the impression that their store transcends the obvious monetary agenda, and being able to trust the knowledge that a grow store is giving you is essential! I want to know that Im being recommended a product because the store owner tried it and thinks its a great product, not because the owner needs to sell an overstocked item! The regular practice of ripping growers off is totally non-existent at PGS and we stand behind every product we sell. Products that are even suspected of not working as advertised get quickly tested and summed up correctly. I have never seen one product slip through the cracks. We specialize in being as honest and solid as possible. Our in house repair guy gets ballasts and hardware fixed quickly and notifies customers on the status of their equipment. We also have loaner ballasts and systems on hand so gardeners don’t have to suffer serious down times when hardware failures occur. I know Im going on forever, but you got me excited… Our community involvement is honestly stellar! From high schools and sports teams, to festivals, benefits and charity functions, PGS gives above and beyond to a myriad of different organizations across the board. Basically PGS is hands down the best store I have not only had the honor of working at, but shopping at as well (I was a customer before they hired me). After 22 years of being involved with indoor gardening, Pro Gardening Systems continues to be the best grow shop I have ever come across!

Thursday, October 08th, 2009 | Author: Invited Guest

This page has been designed to help answer the important questions beginning growers might have when just getting started in hydroponics. A lot of these concepts are connected to each other. Follow the links and put the pieces of this growing puzzle together.

The more you know, the easier it is to grow!

Carbon Dioxide

During photosynthesis, plants use carbon dioxide (CO2), light, and hydrogen (usually water) to produce carbohydrates, which is a source of food. Oxygen is given off in this process as a by-product. Light is a key variable in photosynthesis.

Conductivity

    Measuring nutrient solution strength is a relatively simple process. However, the electronic devices manufactured to achieve this task are quite sophisticated and use the latest microprocessor technology. To understand how these devices work, you have to know that pure water doesn’t conduct electricity. But as salts are dissolved into the pure water, electricity begins to be conducted. An electrical current will begin to flow when live electrodes are placed into the solution. The more salts that are dissolved, the stronger the salt solution and, correspondingly, the more electrical current that will flow. This current flow is connected to special electronic circuitry that allows the grower to determine the resultant strength of the nutrient solution.

    The scale used to measure nutrient strength is electrical conductivity (EC) or conductivity factor (CF). The CF scale is most commonly used in hydroponics. It spans from 0 to more than 100 CF units. The part of the scale generally used by home hydroponic gardeners spans 0-100 CF units. The part of the scale generally used by commercial or large-scale hydroponic growers is from 2 to 4 CF. (strength for growing watercress and some fancy lettuce) to as high as approximately 35 CF for fruits, berries, and ornamental trees. Higher CF values are used by experienced commercial growers to obtain special plant responses and for many of the modern hybrid crops, such as tomatoes and some peppers. Most other plant types fall between these two figures and the majority is grown at 13-25 CF.
    –Rob Smith

Germination

When a seed first begins to grow, it is germinating. Seeds are germinated in a growing medium, such as perlite. Several factors are involved in this process. First, the seed must be active–and alive–and not in dormancy. Most seeds have a specific temperature range that must be achieved. Moisture and oxygen must be present. And, for some seeds, specified levels of light or darkness must be met. Check the specifications of seeds to see their germination requirements.

The first two leaves that sprout from a seed are called the seed leaves, or cotyledons. These are not the true leaves of a plant. The seed develops these first leaves to serve as a starting food source for the young, developing plant.

Growing Medium

Soil is never used in hydroponic growing. Some systems have the ability to support the growing plants, allowing the bare roots to have maximum exposure to the nutrient solution. In other systems, the roots are supported by a growing medium. Some types of media also aid in moisture and nutrient retention. Different media are better suited to specific plants and systems. It is best to research all of your options and to get some recommendations for systems and media before making investing in or building an operation. Popular growing media include:

  • Composted bark. It is usually organic and can be used for seed germination.
  • Expanded clay. Pellets are baked in a very hot oven, which causes them to expand, creating a porous end product.
  • Gravel. Any type can be used. However, gravel can add minerals to nutrient. Always make sure it is clean.
  • Oasis. This artificial, foam-based material is commonly known from its use as an arrangement base in the floral industry.
  • Peat moss. This medium is carbonized and compressed vegetable matter that has been partially decomposed.
  • Perlite. Volcanic glass is mined from lava flows and heated in furnaces to a high temperature, causing the small amount of moisture inside to expand. This converts the hard glass into small, sponge-like kernels.
  • Pumice. This is a glassy material that is formed by volcanic activity. Pumice is lightweight due to its large number of cavities produced by the expulsion of water vapor at a high temperature as lava surfaces.
  • Rockwool. This is created by melting rock at a high temperature and then spinning it into fibers.
  • Sand. This medium varies in composition and is usually used in conjunction with another medium.
  • Vermiculite. Similar to perlite except that it has a relatively high cation exchange capacity–meaning it can hold nutrients for later use.

There are a number of other materials that can (and are) used as growing media. Hydroponic gardeners tend to be an innovative and experimental group.

Hydroponic Systems

The apparatuses used in hydroponic growing are many and varied. There are two basic divisions between systems: media-based and water culture. Also, systems can be either active or passive. Active systems use pumps and usually timers and other electronic gadgets to run and monitor the operation. Passive systems may also incorporate any number of gadgets. However, they to not use pumps and may rely on the use of a wicking agent to draw nutrient to the roots.

Media-based systems–as their name implies–use some form of growing medium. Some popular media-based systems include ebb-and-flow (also called flood-and-drain), run-to-waste, drip-feed (or top-feed), and bottom-feed.

Water culture systems do not use media. Some popular water culture systems are raft (also called floating and raceway), nutrient film technique (NFT), and aeroponics.

Light

Think of a plant as a well-run factory that takes delivery of raw materials and manufactures the most wondrous products. Just as a factory requires a reliable energy source to turn the wheels of its machinery, plants need an energy source in order to grow.

Artificial Light

    Usually, natural sunlight is used for this important job. However, during the shorter and darker days of winter, many growers use artificial lights to increase the intensity of light (for photosynthesis) or to expand the daylight length. While the sun radiates the full spectrum (wavelength or color of light) suitable for plant life, different types of artificial lighting are selected for specific plant varieties and optimum plant growth characteristics. Different groups of plants respond in physically different ways to various wavelengths of radiation. Light plays an extremely important role in the production of plant material. The lack of light is the main inhibiting factor in plant growth. If you reduce the light by 10 percent, you also reduce crop performance by 10 percent.

    Light transmission should be your major consideration when purchasing a growing structure for a protected crop. Glass is still the preferred material for covering greenhouses because, unlike plastic films and sheeting, its light transmission ability is indefinitely maintained.

    No gardener can achieve good results without adequate light. If you intend to grow indoors, avail yourself of some of the reading material that has been published on this subject. If you are having trouble growing good plants, then light is the first factor to question.
    –Rob Smith

Natural Light

    A large part of the success in growing hydroponically is planning where to place the plants. Grow plants that have similar growing requirements in the same system. Placing your system 1-2 feet away from a sunny window will give the best results for most herbs and vegetables. Even your regular house lights help the plants to grow. Make sure that all of the lights are out in your growing area during the night. Plants need to rest a minimum of 4 hours every night. If your plants start to get leggy (too tall and not very full), move the system to a spot that has more sun. Once you find a good growing area, stick to it. Plants get used to their home location. It may take some time to get used to a new place.
    –Charles E. Musgrove

Macronutrients

    • Nitrogen (N)–promotes development of new leaves
    • Phosphorus (P)–aids in root growth and blooming
    • Potassium (K)–important for disease resistance and aids growth in extreme temperatures
    • Sulfur (S)–contributes to healthy, dark green color in leaves
    • Calcium (Ca)–promotes new root and shoot growth
    • Magnesium (Mg)–chlorophyll, the pigment that gives plants their green color and absorbs sunlight to make food, contains a Mg ion
      –Jessica Hankinson
  • Plants need around 16 mineral nutrients for optimal growth. However, not all these nutrients are equally important for the plant. Three major minerals–nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)–are used by plants in large amounts. These three minerals are usually displayed as hyphenated numbers, like “15-30-15,” on commercial fertilizers. These numbers correspond to the relative percentage by weight of each of the major nutrients–known as macronutrients–N, P, and K. Macronutrients are present in large concentrations in plants. All nutrients combine in numerous ways to help produce healthy plants. Usually, sulfur (S), calcium (Ca), and magnesium (Mg) are also considered macronutrients.

    These nutrients play many different roles in plants. Here are some of their dominant functions:

Micronutrients

    Boron (B), copper (Cu), cobalt (Co), iron (Fe) manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), and zinc (Zn) are only present in minute quantities in plants and are known as micronutrients. Plants can usually acquire adequate amounts of these elements from the soil, so most commercial fertilizers don’t contain all of the micronutrients. Hydroponic growers, however, don’t have any soil to provide nutrients for their plants. Therefore, nutrient solution that is marketed for hydroponic gardening contain all the micronutrients.
    –Jessica Hankinson

Nutrient Solution

In hydroponics, nutrient solution–sometimes just referred to as “nutrient”–is used to feed plants instead of plain water. This is due to the fact that the plants aren’t grown in soil. Traditionally, plants acquire most of their nutrition from the soil. When growing hydroponically, you need to add all of the nutrients a plant needs to water. Distilled water works best for making nutrient. Hydroponic supply stores have a variety of nutrient mixes for specific crops and growth cycles. Always store solutions out of direct sunlight to prevent any algae growth. See also conductivity, macronutrients, and micronutrients.

Disposal Unlike regular water, you need to be careful where you dispose of nutrient. Even organic nutrients and fertilizers can cause serious imbalances in aquatic ecosystems. If you do not live near a stream, river, lake or other water source, it is fine to use old nutrient on outdoor plants and lawn. Another possibility is to use it on houseplants. However, if you live within 1,000 feet of a viable water source, do not use your spent nutrient in the ground.

Osmosis

    The ends of a plant’s roots aren’t open-ended like a drinking straw and they definitely doesn’t suck up a drink of water or nutrients (see capillary action). Science is still seeking a complete understanding of osmosis, so to attempt a full and satisfactory description of all that’s involved in this process would be impossible. However, we can understand the basic osmotic principle as it relates to plants.

    First, consider a piece of ordinary blotting paper, such as the commonly used filter for home coffee machines. The paper might appear to be solid. However, if you apply water to one side of it, you’ll soon see signs of the water appearing on the opposite side. The walls of a feeding root act in much the same way. If you pour water onto the top of the filter paper, gravity allows the water to eventually drip through to the bottom side. Add the process of osmosis and water that’s applied to the bottom side drips through to the top.

    With plants, this action allows water and nutrients to pass through the root walls from the top, sides, and bottom. Osmosis is the natural energy force that moves elemental ions through what appears to be solid material. A simplistic explanation for how osmosis works, although not 100 percent accurate, is that the stronger ion attracts the weaker through a semipermeable material. So, the elements within the cells that make up plant roots attract water and nutrients through the root walls when these compounds are stronger than the water and nutrients applied to the outside of the roots.

    It then follows that if you apply a strong nutrient to the plant roots–one that’s stronger than the compounds inside of the root–that the reverse action is likely to occur! This process is called reverse osmosis. Many gardeners have at some time committed the sin of killing their plants by applying too strong a fertilizer to their plants, which causes reverse osmosis. Instead of feeding the plant, they have actually been dragging the life force out of it.

    Understanding how osmosis works, the successful grower can wisely use this knowledge to promote maximum uptake of nutrients into the plants without causing plant stress–or worse, plant death–from overfertilizing. All plants have a different osmotic requirement or an optimum nutrient strength.
    –Rob Smith

Oxygen

As a result of the process of photosynthesis, oxygen (O) is given off by plants. Then, at night, when light isn’t available for photosynthesis, this process is reversed. At night, plants take in oxygen and consume the energy they have stored during the day.

Pests and Diseases

Even though hydroponic gardeners dodge a large number of plant problems by eschewing soil (which is a home to any number of plant enemies), pests and diseases still manage to wreak havoc from time to time. Botrytis, Cladosporium, Fusarium, and Verticillium cover most of the genera of bacteria that can threaten your plants. The insects that can prove annoying include aphids, caterpillars, cutworms, fungus gnats, leaf miners, nematodes, spider mites, thrips, and whiteflies.

A few good ways to prevent infestation and infection are to:

  • Always maintain a sanitary growing environment
  • Grow naturally selected disease- and pest-resistant plant varieties
  • Keep your growing area properly ventilated and at the correct temperatures for your plants
  • Keep a close eye on your plants so if a problem does occur, you can act quickly

With insects, sometimes you can pick off and crush any large ones. Or you can try to wash the infected plants with water or a mild soap solution (such as Safer Soap).

If a problem gets out of control, it may be necessary to apply a biological control in the form of a spray. Research which product will work best in your situation. Always follow the instructions on pesticides very closely.

Alternatively, there are a number of control products on the market today that feature a botanical compound or an ingredient that has been synthesized from a plant material.

On botanical compounds as controlling agents:

    Over the last few years, researchers from all around the world have started to take a much closer look at any compounds present in the plant kingdom that might hold the answer to our pest and disease control problems. Many companies have even switched from producing synthetic pesticides to copying nature by synthesizing naturally occurring compounds in a laboratory setting. Extracts of willow, cinnamon, grapefruit, garlic, neem, bittersweet, lemon grass, derris, eucalyptus, and tomato have been helpful in controlling diseases and pests.
    –Dr. Lynette Morgan

pH

    The pH of a nutrient solution is a measurement of its relative concentration of positive hydrogen ions. Negative hydroxyl ions are produced by the way systems filter and mix air into the nutrient solution feeding plants. Plants feed by an exchange of ions. As ions are removed from the nutrient solution, pH rises. Therefore, the more ions that are taken up by the plants, the greater the growth. A solution with a pH value of 7.0 contains relatively equal concentrations of hydrogen ions and hydroxyl ions. When the pH is below 7.0, there are more hydrogen ions than hydroxyl ion. Such a solution “acidic.” When the pH is above 7.0, there are fewer hydrogen ions than hydroxyl ions. This means that the solution is “alkaline.”

    Test the pH level of your nutrient with a kit consisting of vials and liquid reagents. These kits are available at local chemistry, hydroponic, nursery, garden supplier, or swimming pool supply stores. It is also a good idea to test the pH level of your water before adding any nutrients. If your solution is too alkaline add some acid. Although such conditions rarely occur, sometimes you may have to reduce the level of acidity by making the solution more alkaline. This can be achieved by adding potassium hydroxide (or potash) to the solution in small amounts until it is balanced once again.
    –Charles E. Musgrove

Photosynthesis

Plants need to absorb many necessary nutrients from the nutrient solution or–in the case of traditional agriculture–the soil. However, plants can create some of their own food. Plants use the process of photosynthesis to create food for energy. Carbohydrates are produced from carbon dioxide (CO2) and a source of hydrogen (H)–such as water–in chlorophyll-containing plant cells when they are exposed to light. This process results in the production of oxygen (O).

Plant Problems

Every now and again, you are sure to run into a problem with your plants. This is just a simple fact of any type of gardening. The key is to act quickly, armed with quality knowledge.

Mineral Deficiency Symptoms

    Nitrogen deficiency will cause yellowing of the leaves, especially in the older leaves. The growth of new roots and shoots is stunted. In tomatoes, the stems may take on a purple hue.

    A phosphorous deficiency is usually associated with dark green foliage and stunted growth. As in nitrogen deficiency, the stems may appear purple. But since the leaves don’t yellow as they do in nitrogen deficiency, the whole plant can take on a purplish green color.

    Iron deficiency results in yellowing between the leaf veins. In contrast to nitrogen deficiency, the yellowing first appears in the younger leaves. After a prolonged absence of iron, the leaves can turn completely white.
    –Jessica Hankinson

Wilting

This condition can be caused by environmental factors or disease (usually caused by Fusarium). Nutrient and media temperature can be adjusted to remedy wilt. However, if Fusarium have taken hold, the chances that your plants will survive are slim.

If wilting is due to environmental causes:

    Try to spray the plants and roots with cool, clean water to rejuvenate them. If this hasn’t helped them by the next day, try it again. If the plants respond, top-off the nutrient solution and check the pH. If the plants don’t respond to the misting, empty the tank, move it to a shadier spot, and refill with cool, fresh nutrient solution. Don’t reuse the old solution–start with fresh water and nutrients.
    –Charles E. Musgrove

If wilting is due to a system blockage of nutrient:

    I have seen tomato plants that have been so dehydrated due to a nutrient supply blockage that they were lying flat and for all the world looked stone-cold dead. When the nutrient flow resumed and the plants were given the less stressful environment of nighttime, they rebounded so well that I wondered if I had dreamed the previous day’s “disaster.” The moral of this story is to always give plants a chance to revive, even when the situation looks hopeless.
    –Rob Smith

See also pests and diseases.

Propagation

Plants can be propagated by a number of methods. Growers can let a plant go to seed, collect the seeds, and then start the cycle over again (see germination). Another method is to take stem cuttings, which is also known as cloning (because you are creating an exact copy of the parent plant).

Although this process won’t work with all plants, it is a highly effective technique. Simply cut off a side shoot or the top of the main shoot just below a growth node. Make sure that there are at least two growth nodes above the cut. Remove any of the lower leaves near the base of the new plant. This cutting can then be rooted by placing it in water or in a propagation medium (perlite works well) that is kept moist. The use of some rooting hormone can help your chances of success.

Pruning

Remove any discolored, insect-eaten, or otherwise sick-looking leaves from plants. Picking off some outer leaves or cutting the top off a plant can help it grow fuller. Use sharp scissors to prune your plants. Sometimes you will want to prune a plant to focus its energy on the remaining shoots. Pruning is an art and should be performed with care. Damaged or dying roots may also need to be pruned from time to time.

Soil

    Never use soil during any aspect of hydroponics. If you ever move a plant from a soil-based situation to hydroponics, remove all traces of soil or potting mix from the roots. Soil holds lots of microbes and other organisms and materials that love to grow in and contaminate your hydroponic system. Some of these will actually parasitize your plant and slow its growth. This is another advantage of hydroponic growing: The plant can get on with growing without having to support a myriad of other organisms as happens in conventional soil growing.
    –Rob Smith

Temperature

Different plants have different germination and growing temperatures. Always make sure that you check each plant’s growing requirements–especially minimum and maximum temperature levels. Keep in mind that specific varieties of plants may have different requirements.

Water

    Because the water supply is the source of life for your plants, quality is important. All plants rely on their ability to uptake water freely. Between 80 and 98 percent of this uptake is required for transpiration (loosely compared to perspiration in animals), which allows the plant to produce and somewhat control its immediate microclimate. Plants also need clean, uncontaminated water to produce their own healthy food supply.
    –Rob Smith

The water you use in your hydroponic system needs to be pure. It is always a good idea to test your water source before adding nutrients so you aren’t adding an element that is already present. In small systems, it would be wise to use distilled water.

If you are starting a larger hydroponic operation, it would be a good idea to have a water analysis completed. Factors such as sodium chloride (NaCl, or salt) content and hardness will be of great use to growers. Also, groundwater can have elements normally not present in conditioned water. A key piece of advice: Get to know your water!

Thursday, August 13th, 2009 | Author: Invited Guest

After designing and building so many large commercial hydroponic systems throughout the world, it’s often a nice change of pace to create small hobby systems for home use. They’re fun to make and even more fun to use and observe. And of course, when filled with a variety of plants, a home hydroponic garden can spruce up any patio, solarium or living room. By far the best aspect of a home system in my opinion is convenience. Even in the dead of winter you can have fresh flowers all the time if you wish and no more running out to the store because you forgot a green pepper, one of the most important ingredients in that recipe you wanted to try tonight.

Over the years I have made a number of home hydroponic systems from materials I could find nearby, whether they be PVC tubes from the hardware store or plastic bags from the supermarket. My whole philosophy of hydroponics is to keep it simple, and this is even more important for home units. Nobody wants to come home from a long day at work to battle with their garden.

The Basics

Hydroponic Home UnitIf you understand how hydroponic systems work–which is not difficult–you should have no problem building and maintaining the home unit I describe below. Most hydroponic systems employ some type of media, like rockwool, expanded clay pellets or perlite, to support plants and hold nutrient solution in their root zone between watering cycles. In medialess systems (often referred to as “water culture”), a continuous supply of nutrients is provided to plant roots either in a fine mist (aeroponics) or flow, in which the root tips hang (Nutrient Film or Flow Technique). A combination system, called aerohydroponics, employs both the flow of nutrient and the fine mist for the best of both worlds. Another water culture system is the float system, which many of you have probably read about in other articles I’ve written for The Growing EDGE. This type of system works by placing plants in a foam board so their roots hang through it, and floating the board so their roots hang through it, and floating the board on the surface of the nutrient solution in a tray or pan. There’s no doubt that all of these systems work very well, but they do have some drawbacks for home applications.

For example, medialess systems that rely on the continuous flow or misting of nutrient solution–like aeroponics, NFT and aero-hydroponics–are more at risk from power outages and mechanical failures. Because they have no media to hold solution in the root zone, if a blackout occurs, roots are subject to drying out, which can happen very quickly and destroy your entire crop. The float system is not very practical for home use as it limits your growing choices to short term crops like lettuce since the roots are submerged in the nutrient at all times. The roots of longer term crops would start to break down in these conditions after a while. Also, the nutrient solution is very accessible to pets and children, which could be harmful to them.

Top-Feed Tray System

The system I prefer, and have on my own patio, is a recirculating tray unit filled with perlite. In this top-feed drip system, a two-inch layer of perlite serves as the growing media and nutrient is dripped in at one end and gravity-fed to a drain at the other end, which directs it back to the tank for recirculation The system requires very little attention and if the power goes off, a dripper clogs or a pump failure occurs, you have 12 to 18 hours to correct the situation. And because it works with a medium, the nutrient is buffered, which helps minimize errors in mixing calculations if you accidentally knock the pH off balance a little.

I first set this system up for a neighbor of mine who owns a local French restaurant. When my son saw the unit producing beautiful, thriving herbs in her house, he insisted we have one of our own, so within a week, we built a double unit and planted it with herbs, tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, flowers and any other seeds my son could get his hands on. That was three years ago. Today the system is still on our patio putting forth an abundance of fresh food and flowers.

Parts and Assembly

The parts for my home unit were all bought locally and are easy to replace if necessary. The two roof pans used for the growing beds are 12 inches wide, two inches deep and 6 feet long. Often used for construction projects, roof pans like these are available in most hardware stores. They are aluminum with an enamel coating, which is excellent because they are so durable. However, if you cannot find pans like these, it’s very easy to build similar beds from wood. All you have to do to prepare them for hydroponics is line them with double layer, six-millimeter polyethelene to make them waterproof.

For actual growing system, you’ll also need a small Maxi-Jet aquarium pump and either a recycling container with a lid or a 10-gallon Rubbermaid® storage bin for the nutrient tank. We’ll get to the irrigation supplies a little later.

Top-Feed Tray SystemTo make the stand, you can use regular Schedule 40 three-quarter-inch PVC pipe, and fittings to connect the pipes together. It is essential for you to create a one-inch slope from one end of the stand to the other for nutrient drainage to occur. The diagram below shows the construction of the stand and its slope for a single bed. You’ll want to build your stand according to how big your growing area is. My home system, as you can see in the photos, is a double-long bed. To start off, you may want to just make a system with only one growing bed (roof pan).

Hydroponic Home Made Unit - DiagramOnce the stand is ready, the trays just get pop-riveted to it, using a silicone sealant to caulk around the rivets. Then you drill two half-inch holes in the lower end of each sloped tray and screw a male half-inch PVC adapter into each; don’t forget to caulk around them with silicone to protect against leaks. Connect equal lengths of half-inch PVC pipe to each adapter, using elbows and a T-fitting to create a cross-bar between the two that will join them into a single drain line to the nutrient tank, which should be situated directly beneath the drainage holes. Refer to the diagram below for a better idea of how this should look. In the systems I built, I fitted each of the drain holes in the end of the growing beds with a three-inch tube of window screening to prevent perlite from entering the nutrient tank.

Now for the most important part, the nutrient delivery system. You’ll notice that the photo of my home unit differs a little from the diagram. I used PVC piping for my irrigation line and it doesn’t go all the way around the growing beds. You can do that, or you can follow the diagram, using either half-inch PVC pipe or standard half-inch irrigation line, which can be bought at any do-it-yourself home store or K-Mart®.

To follow the diagram, lead half-inch irrigation tubing from the pump in the nutrient tank up and around the growing beds to the high end of the tray. Obviously the tubing won’t just stay like this and it will bend as you curve it around the beds, so you’ll need to cut it into sections, connecting them with elbow-fittings around each corner. In total you’ll have to cut the line into five different sections, connecting them with four elbows. You’ll need a yard stick or measuring tape to determine where you’ll need to make your cuts and connections. Precise measurements are dependent on the height of your stand and square footage of your growing bed. The end of the irrigation line will need to be closed off as well. If you use PVC pipe, end pieces can be bought to close off the tubes. With irrigation line, you can use a figure eight end adapter to do this. All it is a piece of plastic shaped like a figure-eight; you stick the end of the tubing into one of the loops in the figure eight, bend it and stick it through the other loop. The bend closes off the line. One point that should be made: if you use irrigation line, it probably won’t stay stiff above or along the outside of the growing bed as pictured in the diagram, so you may have to afix it somehow to the edges of the tray or just lay it along the surface of the perlite around the edge of the bed.

Finally, at the opposite end of the bed from the nutrient tank, drill a couple of holes into the irrigation line with an 1/8-inch drill bit or irrigation line key punch. Once you pop the drippers or spaghetti tubing into those holes, your feed lines are ready.

Almost Done

At this stage, you’re ready to test the unit. Prepare the perlite by flushing all the dust out. Don’t forget to wear a mask when you do this; the dust is bad for your lungs. When it’s ready, pour it into the system, smoothing it out about a half-inch from the tip of the tray. Fill your nutrient tank with water and plug in the pump. If there is too much pressure from the pump, make a small hole in the pipe near the pump. When everything is running okay, add nutrient and plant!

Testing the EC and pH of your nutrient solution should be done daily.

The thing I like most about this unit is that it gives me a 12-square-foot growing area that can easily be doubled without even switching to a larger nutrient tank. With 24 square feet of growing area, you should have enough produce to feed a family of four. Another great feature is that it is very easy to maintain, and if you go away on vacation, you can simply add a small float valve and line to a water hose to keep the tank filled. I have left our unit for over three weeks with this method, and other than our herbs being overgrown and little yellowish, everything survived, and within a few days of my return all was back to normal.

Have fun with your new hydroponic unit, and remember to spread the word that hydroponics works and grows!

Gordon Creaser is a regular columnist for The Growing EDGE and professional hydroponics consultant.

Original Page Here

Wednesday, July 01st, 2009 | Author: Pete

Hey guys, I have been on a video tangent lately, and it doesnt end…. muahhhh. Seriously though, here is a great little video that shows inside the daily operations of a full scale hydroponic Lettuce facility. Notice the use of common products available at all PGS stores, including Oasis Cubes, Rapid Rooter Plugs, and Grodan Rockwool.

Wednesday, June 17th, 2009 | Author: Pete

grodan-lgRockwool continues to be one of the most popular grow mediums you can buy today. Rockwool has ancient roots that go back to Hawaii. Known as “Pele’s Hair”. Molten lava flying high into the air would get captured by the wind and create rockwool like we know today. The Hawaiians would collect it and grow a myriad of plants with it. These days we have a ton of companies that manufacture high quality rockwool hydroponic medium. The leader in rockwool production continues to be GRODAN.

Here is some information right from Grodan.

Grodan supplies cultivation solutions that comprise a combination of advice, support and a clean and controllable substrate. This results in the best basis for the cultivation of safe, healthy and high-quality vegetables and plants.

For over thirty years, Grodan has been at the cutting edge in the cultivation of safe, healthy and high-quality vegetables and plants. The Grodan Gallery illustrates the three pillars on which our approach is based: People, Planet and Profit.

Grodan Rockwool has been made in Denmark since 1969. Let us introduce you to Grodan stonewool: Grodan is water absorbent stonewool. Mother Nature makes her own stonewool which is known as angel hair from volcanoes. In the case of Grodan rockwool, rocks are heated up to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit and spun into wool like cotton candy. This method gives a media that is sterile and always maintains its structure as in the case of Grodan rockwool.

We carry a full line of Grodan products. Slabs, Hugo cubes, 3 and 4 inch cubes, propagation cubes and more… Give us a call or come visit us to grab some today. 1-866-PGS-GROW.

Thursday, June 11th, 2009 | Author: PGS Grow

pgs-update